i've rebounce from the dead :P :P because i have to ask something..
can anyone explain
1. suspension Front & Rear : if i decrease or increase the number of these parts
- Spring ??
- Bump ??
- Rebound ??
- Preload ??
what are the effects to the bike ?
2. Others : if i decrease or increase the number of these parts
- Rake angle
- Front fork height
- Rear fork height
- Swing Pivot
- Swing length
- Pressure Front
- Pressure Rear
what are the effects to the bike ?
i know someone has post about the Setup explanation of all above parts that i asked.. but i don't really understand the language, i assumed it was a translations from other language.. any help will be very appreciated.. :) :) :)
p.s i've made a major improvements for the lap time. now i usually do 1:29.. i made just random setup because i don't really understand the effects if i decrease or increase one of the settings except TCS, Engine Braking, Anti Wheelie, and Brake... :D :D :D :D
Hi,
For the spring:
I usually make 2-3 laps using max plugin and look if supension go down at the end of course and if yes i level up the suspension until that will be good.
Note that the tyres pressure will change, no, the tyre temperature and you will adjust the tyre pressure to obtain the right temperature.
Bump=> that define how the suspension absorbs the bump on the road when the fork is compress.
Rebound is exactly the opposite
Preload is the force needed to begin to compress the fork.
Quote from: janaucarre on November 10, 2016, 06:15:57 PM
Hi,
For the spring:
I usually make 2-3 laps using max plugin and look if supension go down at the end of course and if yes i level up the suspension until that will be good.
Note that the tyres pressure will change, no, the tyre temperature and you will adjust the tyre pressure to obtain the right temperature.
Bump=> that define how the suspension absorbs the bump on the road when the fork is compress.
Rebound is exactly the opposite
Preload is the force needed to begin to compress the fork.
well thanks for your explanations, it means so much.. though i still don't understand some part that you were trying to explained.. ;D ;D hope someone will be able to answer.. so i can have my first wildcard race in movistar cup smoothly...
1. suspension Front & Rear :
- Spring - Stiffness of the spring. Stiffer springs require more force to compress, and decompress (spring back) with greater force than softer springs.
- Bump - Bump Stop is mainly a tool for protecting the chassis when the suspension compresses to it's maximum but because it adds to the spring, there is an effect on suspension behaviour
- Rebound - Rebound Dampening dampens (reduces the effect of) the force of spring decompression. This can prevent a "jumpy" front or rear end.
- Preload - This preloads the suspension by compressing it. Thus, it increases the force required to compress the spring further without the drawback of the spring decompressing as fast.
2. Others : if i decrease or increase the number of these parts
- Rake angle - Put very simply: A higher rake angle stretches the distance of the front wheel to the rest of the bike. Doing so makes the bike turn less, but is more stable on straights. Think of choppers like the "Harley Davidsons". Many of their rake angles are quite high.
- Front fork height - Raises the front
- Rear fork height - Raises the rear
- Swing Pivot - Swing arm pivots does what it says. It pivots the swing arm. This will raise the rear height, and among other things, can help make it harder for the bike to wheelie. However, it will also make it easier for the rear to lift off the ground during braking
- Swing length - Longer swing arm means more stability in a straight line, but less turning ability
- Tyre Pressure - Very simply: Increasing tyre pressure can make it easier to maneuver the bike, and depending on how you do it, grip may or may not get worse. Too low or too high, and you'll have problems
If you ask in a practice session others are usually happy to share a setup or two for you to try. :)
There are some good articles here on suspension adjustment.
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/sportbike-suspension-guide
Years back(after 5 or 6 years of running around with factory settings) I thought I'd try and set up the wee ZXR for the back road to work. Tweaked things click at a time for a couple of weeks before ending up more or less back where I started. ::)
If I learned anything it's that Kawasaki knew what they were doing when then set it up in the first place. :P
Quote from: Urban Chaos 2.0 on December 17, 2016, 11:07:15 AM
1. suspension Front & Rear :
- Spring - Stiffness of the spring. Stiffer springs require more force to compress, and decompress (spring back) with greater force than softer springs.
- Bump - Bump Stop is mainly a tool for protecting the chassis when the suspension compresses to it's maximum but because it adds to the spring, there is an effect on suspension behaviour
- Rebound - Rebound Dampening dampens (reduces the effect of) the force of spring decompression. This can prevent a "jumpy" front or rear end.
- Preload - This preloads the suspension by compressing it. Thus, it increases the force required to compress the spring further without the drawback of the spring decompressing as fast.
2. Others : if i decrease or increase the number of these parts
- Rake angle - Put very simply: A higher rake angle stretches the distance of the front wheel to the rest of the bike. Doing so makes the bike turn less, but is more stable on straights. Think of choppers like the "Harley Davidsons". Many of their rake angles are quite high.
- Front fork height - Raises the front
- Rear fork height - Raises the rear
- Swing Pivot - Swing arm pivots does what it says. It pivots the swing arm. This will raise the rear height, and among other things, can help make it harder for the bike to wheelie. However, it will also make it easier for the rear to lift off the ground during braking
- Swing length - Longer swing arm means more stability in a straight line, but less turning ability
- Tyre Pressure - Very simply: Increasing tyre pressure can make it easier to maneuver the bike, and depending on how you do it, grip may or may not get worse. Too low or too high, and you'll have problems
Thanks for the amazing explanation !!!! ;D ;D ;D i will try to learn and apply it on my setups ;)
Quote from: Grooveski on December 17, 2016, 03:44:19 PM
If you ask in a practice session others are usually happy to share a setup or two for you to try. :)
There are some good articles here on suspension adjustment.
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/sportbike-suspension-guide
Years back(after 5 or 6 years of running around with factory settings) I thought I'd try and set up the wee ZXR for the back road to work. Tweaked things click at a time for a couple of weeks before ending up more or less back where I started. ::)
If I learned anything it's that Kawasaki knew what they were doing when then set it up in the first place. :P
i'll read it.. very useful website thanksss ;D :D i know you from GP500 forum.. you're the circuit creator, right ?? you've done many amazing tracks for gp500 :)
Glad you liked them. :D
I recognised your name too. ;) There are quite a few old GP500'ers still kicking around. Don't know who the oldest active modder on the scene is but my money would be on Alone - pretty sure he and RR were knocking out bikes while I was still fantasizing about new tracks. 8)
(Used the MGS01 a few years ago in a winter championship. Man - I loved that model! :) )
GP500 ruled back in the days. I still have my 2004 Streetbike set I made for GP500, thank god we dont have to write the files to change bikes in GPB....................gpparticipants I think it was lol
Great to see more of the old crue turning up
DD