I am starting with a triple clamp assembly from a CBR929RR. Head and fork tubes are carbon fiber. Spacers and steering bearings are 3D printed. I plan on using an hydraulic master cylinder to drive the front brake potentiometer. Will post more pictures as I make more progress.
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2ug04sk.jpg)
This will be very interesting to see how you progress with this and how well it will work, Uberslug. ;) 8)
Is this something your doing as a one off personal project or something your planning to build and sell to others in the future? :)
Good luck with this project mate.... I'll be following your progress closely. ;)
Hawk.
Good stuff. Popcorn time :)
they see carbon pattern they go crazy ! :o ;D
bigger picture/sketch will be more appealing :P
Why not act on a load cell instead of a pot with that master cylinder? Potentiometers are useless. At the very least magnetic resistance sensors are a great alternative.
Hydraulic force and displacement pot wont work well together. You will need to use a pressure sensor (expensive) or load cell (which you can buy cheap)
what about a single pot break caliper (easily compatible with any break lever) with a load cell like people are suggesting. It could be mounted anywhere on the controller.
You may want to speak to DoubleDragonCC as he is guy when it comes to custom controllers! And he is even currently working on a hydraulic breaking system.
P260 Vishay pot 4.45 from Leo Bodnar
Typical price for Tranducer 14.00
Doing tests right now for how transducer feels in gpb but problems with how to ship with brake fluid and not all people know how to bleed a brake unit
DD
I have added the handlebars and brake levers.
(http://i64.tinypic.com/332cleo.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2qsw855.jpg)
Here is my concept for the front brake potentiometer.
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2vt2y6s.jpg)
The red unit allows one to convert a cable clutch lever to a hydraulic lever. The barrel to the right houses a small progressive rate spring and the rod on the left pulls / pushes on a linear potentiometer. The lever should approximate what one gets on a game controller. I will eventually source a brake caliper and a compatible pressure transducer but I am still in the proof of concept stage.
Great work uber
I have a set of levers both with master cyliders for brake and clutch but my 100psi transducer is giving me problems, think I brike the membrane? I will let you know results as I test different transducers.
DD
Mock up of Shift Switches with Rear Set.
(https://s24.postimg.org/7slab7fkh/Shifter_Rear_Set.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/7slab7fkh/)
Rethought the brakes and picked up a couple of used CBR600RR Rear Brake Calipers and a Master Cylinder.
Initial frame layout using old 8020 extrusion I found in the garage.
(https://s1.postimg.org/b0p6c5q4r/IMG_0471.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/b0p6c5q4r/)
Lean and steering.
(https://s1.postimg.org/6g2zx86ff/IMG_0472.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/6g2zx86ff/)
wow, :o, so it will work with counter steering ? have 2 differente rotation axes for leaning and steering ?, wow :o
Uberslug,
You ever have too much money, too much spare time or too much arms ;D
Very interesting build anyway !
Nice work man. Can't wait to see the end product.
Cheers,
/David "Gonzo" Boda #46
Can never have too much money, but, I do have a lot of spare time as I get over a bicycling accident.
Added a brake caliper for the front brake.
(https://s22.postimg.org/s7wy73g0t/IMG_0474.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/s7wy73g0t/)
Have also added a steering damper.
(https://s22.postimg.org/5x9374iql/IMG_0475.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5x9374iql/)
Now have working wiring for steering, front brake, throttle, clutch, and shifting.
CBR929RR Seat should be delivered on Monday.
Added Rear Brake Caliper and Master Cylinder. Will mount the Reservoir to the sub-frame which should arrive tomorrow.
(https://s4.postimg.org/wv76kywqx/IMG_0492.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/wv76kywqx/)
After much reading and research I decided to use two used CBR600RR Rear Brake Calipers for the brakes. I wanted something that would give roughly the same feel at the lever, have roughly the same amount of lever travel, and require a moderate pull with two fingers for maximum braking. I tried a 50 Kg Load Cell initially but it was too easy to create maximum braking force with one finger. After blowing up a 50 Kg Load Cell and Amplifier when testing with two fingers I slipped in a 200 Kg Load Cell and now have a setup that has enough'range' to allow me to pull firmly on the lever and not worry about blowing up the load cell or amplifier.
(https://s3.postimg.org/4hdttgzan/key115.81.2.png) (https://postimg.org/image/4hdttgzan/)
My initial thought was to use the piston side brake pad as the resistance plate for the load cell. The testing that fried the electrical parts also bent the brake pad. I modeled up a version that could easily be cut out of 3/8 inch 304 SS with a water jet. The images below show the differences in displacement between the pad and the new resistance plate.
Standard Steel Backed Brake Pad [sintered pad material doesn't add any reinforcement]
(https://s16.postimg.org/leqgc43lt/Standard_Brake_Pad.png) (https://postimg.org/image/leqgc43lt/)
Enhanced SS Brake Pad
(https://s9.postimg.org/lthw1nbbv/Enhanced_Brake_Pad.png) (https://postimg.org/image/lthw1nbbv/)
Maybe you are over engineering it all
Think outside of the box
That is all I will say but great work m8
DD
Wow, how about the cost of rig like this ?
All of the red bits were sourced from China via EBay and totaled less than $150 US. All of the actual production motorcycle bits are used, were also sourced from EBay, and total approximately $250 US [triple clamps, rear brake calipers, rear master cylinder, sub frame, seat]. All of the custom plastic bits [brackets, gears, spacers, fork tube caps, etc.] were printed on my Mojo 3D Printer. Carbon Fiber tubes cost about $30 US. Most of the 8020 was scrounged from my garage from previous projects. With the exception of the load cells [~$60 US each], most of the electrical bits were pretty reasonable [even though I bought plenty of spares just in case] and cost approximately $250 US. The seat cowl was approximately $200 US with shipping. I made a number of custom round parts on my lathe and the only part I have outsourced is the faux 'brake pads'.
This is mostly an intellectual exercise that will [I hope] be a much better controller than the XBox Elite I am currently using. I originally set out to 'think outside the cubicle' when it came to the controls, but, later, decided to just 'get on with it'. I have a tendency to 'work' on designs for inordinate amounts of time trying to make them as 'perfect' as possible before actually producing anything usable so maybe this project will help with that particular affliction as well.
I see you re using bi-axis controller (steer and lean) i imagine it will be used with DST, will you add a FFB to the steer, to realy feel the bike countering on corner and know the lean angle limit ? if not will it be usable with DST without any feed back from gpb. i'm using a homemade controller and attached a xbox controller just to get the rumble, i know it is not FFB but at least and with very sensitive setup with maxhud plugin, i can feel my steer rumbling when it start to drift !
I am very excited about this project, keep doing your thing!
This will be the first controller to take advantage of the game's full potential.
Most of the major bits have been added. Still have to add the rear brake reservoir and then fluid [rarely used the rear brake in real life so it will be a challenge learning how to use it effectively]. I am still awaiting the arrival of the seat cowl and I haven't added the lean potentiometer yet. I still have a tidy up the wiring and add some covers to the fragile items.
(https://s10.postimg.org/wkcyed81h/IMG_0494.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/wkcyed81h/)
I tested it out today and everything works almost as well as I had hoped. The clutch lacks a 'grab' point but I can get going even in 'Direct Steer' mode [THAT took quite a few tries to get right]. The shifting feels pretty realistic as does the brake lever action, however, the throttle could use a little less twist [easy enough to fix by printing new parts].
At this point in time I will need to read up on direct steering. I managed to get around Turn Five of Brno going an earth scorching 50 kmh after about an hour of cussing, cursing, and asking myself 'WHY did I think this was a good idea?'.
looks awesome dude :o
(https://s26.postimg.org/is4xq6lt1/New_Throttle_Assembly.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/is4xq6lt1/)
I have been dissatisfied with the performance of my original throttle assembly as there was too much cable drag and too many parts. After much thought and experimentation I have created the above with a small rotary potentiometer hidden inside.
Next up will be eliminating the excessive drag on the clutch cable.