PiBoSo Official Forum

INTRODUCTION: Before working on the setup is recommended configure your joypad. There are many parameters to be set. For setup instead, It is good to follow some very important steps that may help you figure out how to be competitive in a race and as no mistake as possible trying to keep your own pace. First, a lot of practice on hard tyres, turn with a basic structure for the track, the rope and find references for braking.. Once you have learned well every curve of the circuit, you have to understand what the curve or in which you have a harder time maneuvering or run more risks and start work on any setting. AND' well aim its work just, always in race optics, Calibrate fuel and tires, assessing consumption in attendamene weather forecast, arriving at confident of yourself, of race and of your vehicle. In addition to the setup you can also intervene on the sensitivity of the joypad buttons through the smooth function enabled. Once you've found your proper driving style can you intervene on setup and sharpen the fine tuning of the bike with meticulous work from real mechanic.
If you use many helps you lost more time in your laps. Another important difference is that between the tour launched "hot lap" and the race. Qualifiy gum with tank almost empty, you do make a great lap time, that race will hardly repeat
tour launched "hot lap" and the race. Qualifiy gum with tank almost empty, you do make a great lap time, that race will hardly repeat

GENERAL (http://onlinemotorsport.it/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/generale.jpg) (http://onlinemotorsport.it/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/generale.jpg) WET QUALIFY: You can upload your setup in anticipation dry qualification. Automatically will load the setup with its tires and fuel DRY RACE: You can upload your setup in anticipation dry race. Automatically will load the setup with its tires and fuel WET QUALIFY: You can upload your setup in anticipation dry qualification. Automatically will load the setup with its tires and fuel WET RACE: You can upload your setup in anticipation dry qualification. Automatically will load the setup with its tires and fuel CURRENT: is the setup you are using currently RIGHT SIDE TABLE: inside there are rescues entries, setup overwrites and summary of your tires mounted ( with eventual wear recovery where applicable unlimited tires) with inflation pressure, the fuel, and in addition you can control the amount of tires available and their State of wear for sessions and their State of wear lateral and shoulders visible Central. AND' important to set the new tires for the race, forgetting to change the rubber used on the new one requires attention FUEL: AND' the amount of fuel that you want to use for the current session, recommended 2 litres per revolution pitched with qualifying rubber, While the race considered 0, 8litri / around 1000cc, 0,7litres / around gp500, While 0, 4 liters / around the 125. TYRES FRONT AND REAR: the type of mixes that you decide to install for that session, right click the new tyres BRAKE: Balancing the braking power, It promotes the braking distance, the entrance and the dangers of overturning. A powerful front brake slows before the bike, generates understeer when cornering aiming to enlarge. The risk is also to tip over or lose the front end, While the latter raises brakes very losing braking surface . A powerful rear brake helps the rider to close the curve and change any smears taken, but can lead more easily to the locking and fall. To curb so composed and accurately, before a curve, is to have the front brake, a little lower than rear, in this way your motorcycle breaks down when braking not being made. Recommend using low intensity for braking as you risk really upset or steering locks

SUSPENSION SPRING: The adjustment of the springs must be adjusted in function of the circuit and the tire wear. Moving too much you risk parameters not having the right compromise for the whole circuit but maybe earning in a sector and suffer much in another. In case you want to try to change the parameters of the suspension is recommended to do it step by step and find the right felling. BUMP: Shock absorber stiffness determines how the bike reacts to bumps and cargo transfers. Stiffer shock absorbers make more precise motion, but more unstable when off. Softer shocks degrades the precision but make the bike less twitchy. The stiffness is measured in kg/mm. REBOUNDED:  Increase the compression damping and dampens extension before the oscillations due to the roughness of the track and the load shifts. A high damping makes the bike more responsive but very unstable, a low damping makes the bike less stable but very slow to maneuver. The adjustment is measured in "click" and performed by turning a screw. PRELOAD: The shock absorber preload goes to affect height front and rear of the bike. More preload lifts the bike, minus the lowers. A low bike offers a better grip, but the bending angle decreases. A motorcycle is least stable, but the tilt when cornering increase. If a bike understeers, lowers the front wheel (by reducing the front preload). If a motorcycle sovrasterza, lowering the rear (by reducing preload behind). OIL: amount of oil in the piston rod expressed in millimetres

DRIVERTRAIN (http://onlinemotorsport.it/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/rapporti.jpg) (http://onlinemotorsport.it/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/rapporti.jpg) GEARS  FINAL DRIVE RATIO: are the Crown and pinion, going to adapt the bike to the straight and curve radii that make up the track. AND' personal and highly influential because every curve must be parsed using the right gear in corner inlet and outlet. A change set optimally, It is essential for the success of the setup and serves to encourage the motor brake on corner entry or exit acceleration.

GEOMETRY (http://onlinemotorsport.it/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/telaio.jpg) (http://onlinemotorsport.it/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/telaio.jpg) ANGRY RAKE: Changing the pitch angle of the steering tube . Increasing the steering angle oscillations diminish, but also the reactivity during the curves, is ideal for fast corners, It is very accurate in the entrance and with a lot of grip out of bends, but slow in changes of direction and in mixed. Close the steering angle is more suitable on tracks with many mixed traits, acts to have a lot of "agility" in the curves but with little grip out the bike tends to sbacchettare behind and you lose a lot of time when accelerating. SWING ARM PIVOT: The swingarm pivot has an impact on' Oscillation and the twisting of the bike recommended "0″ to avoid the sbacchettamenti SWING ARM LENGHT: The height of the fork stanchions consigilato "1″ PRESSURE: tire pressure varies according to certain factors and type of gum which used on pneumatic crushing to the ground drawing in some situations maximum grip. ONLY CATEGORY UNIT 1000: You can adjust the TCS, recommended 1 or 2, motor brake intensity, anti tipping (If you remove the gearbox worked mapping engine forecast "J1″) and engine mapping. Work on the electronics is very important to find a compromise to your setup, Remember that the mapping engine can be changed during the race, varying fuel consumption.

[/size]TIRES Journey to wear and slipping and varies according to the length of the race set from the menu. The soft compound, the greater the estate (the grip) initial and final minor.     Qualify 1-2: the tyres for the qualifying tour launched, only two available compounds, then must be used only when you are sure you have found the Setup and try to finally make time. Soft 1-2-3-4: for use with low temperatures, so to get to work scheme. Or you can use the front or rear only for solving problems of cornering or exit. Push too much even for a few laps, may foreclose the deterioration and your race pace. Hard 1-2-3-4: most tires are also used by a factor of strength and durability, must be used when temperatures are high and allow you to deal with all the duration of the race. Important here is don't push away with cold rubber, because it can take the tire to a loss of adhesion, important to let them warm up a few rounds. Wet 1-2: for use in wet qualifying, wet or race with rain

thank you ;)

Setup for work personally 1000cc:

BRAKE-front 8
-rear 4
SUSPENSION FRONT
-spring 25
-bump 9
-rebound 12
-preload 10
-oil 179
SUSPENSION REAR
-spring 110
-bump 7
-rebound 10
-preload 8
DRIVERTRAIN-front 16
-rear 33
OTHERS
-rake angle 22
swing pivot 2
swing length 1
PRESSURE-front 1.25
-rear 1.35
TCS 2
BRAKE ENGINE 2
ANTIWHEELING 1

sure of what you have written :o

What is sure is that the english is hardly understandable. Google translator is far from perfect you know ...

Some parts are also plain wrong.

MaX.

 :o

 :o

Very usefull thread Gorgioe thank you.

Thank you Gorgioe......its really pain in the ass to setup a bike...... the problem for me is that i don't feel any difference when i play with "Rake Angle" , "SWING ARM PIVOT" and "SWING ARM LENGHT"...... i can set everything to the max and to the minimum and make samme lap times....... samme problem with SUSPENSION.

Well the suspension works for me but still having front end problem, and the front tyre locked every time i lean at max angle

Good setup Tnx giorjoe

hi guys
my first setup question concerns settings that are recommended, as above in giorjoe's post, which i don't seem to see in my settings.
for example, he refers to brake settings - front 8, rear 4
the only options i see for brake settings are front leverage, where the options are 20mm, 18mm or 16mm and front disc - carbon 314mm or steel 314mm.
what gives? why do i not have the sort of settings he refers to?
he says its for 1000cc, and i've selected GP1000, Suzuki 2015 v3 in this case. why does it not seem to match up with his setting?
i have noticed other instances where settings are being referred, and i simply don't seem to have those settings.
anyone to help me figure this out?  ;D

Hey doctor, have seen how old is the original post ? You can safely ignore it.

MaX.

lol - thanks MaX, i did notice it was old. are there any threads with newer, more relevant setup info that might help me?
i've tried using several of the setups offered throughout the forum, but most of them seem to be making things worse, not better....  ::)
growing pains, indeed...  ;D

Quote from: TheCapeDoctor on June 20, 2015, 12:25:04 PM
lol - thanks MaX, i did notice it was old. are there any threads with newer, more relevant setup info that might help me?
i've tried using several of the setups offered throughout the forum, but most of them seem to be making things worse, not better....  ::)
growing pains, indeed...  ;D

If you go online most riders are willing to share their bike setup with you.

If you tell me what bike you want a setup for I can always post a link for you to download it.  ;)

Hawk.

just a little update - put in several grueling hours last night getting to grips with using the Logitech gamepad, and i am happy to announce i'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel, as far as controller issues goes.
currently have it set with left trigger for brakes, right for throttle, l/r steering with right stick, and after a while of tinkering with settings, it's starting to come together - hooray!
still need to sort braking out - currently have both set to one axis, with less braking power for rear, although i'm still having the back end step out a bit too often, but it's a huge improvement so far in terms of general smoothness, most especially in the throttle/leaning department. was testing all night with Aprilia RSA250, for starters, and i can report much improved stability in cornering and under acceleration as opposed to keyboard attempts, so given a few more good sessions like that, and i will finally be able to break the hold the keyboard has had over me, lol - talk about old dog, new tricks, hahah!  ;D
hold on to those lap records while ye can, buckos - i'll soon be trying to wrestle 'em away from y'all.... 8)

Quote from: TheCapeDoctor on June 22, 2015, 12:57:20 PM
just a little update - put in several grueling hours last night getting to grips with using the Logitech gamepad, and i am happy to announce i'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel, as far as controller issues goes.
currently have it set with left trigger for brakes, right for throttle, l/r steering with right stick, and after a while of tinkering with settings, it's starting to come together - hooray!
still need to sort braking out - currently have both set to one axis, with less braking power for rear, although i'm still having the back end step out a bit too often, but it's a huge improvement so far in terms of general smoothness, most especially in the throttle/leaning department. was testing all night with Aprilia RSA250, for starters, and i can report much improved stability in cornering and under acceleration as opposed to keyboard attempts, so given a few more good sessions like that, and i will finally be able to break the hold the keyboard has had over me, lol - talk about old dog, new tricks, hahah!  ;D
hold on to those lap records while ye can, buckos - i'll soon be trying to wrestle 'em away from y'all.... 8)

Combined brakes = NO.NO. For me at least.

Front brake on your right trigger, rear brake (and clutch) on your left stick. This is more or less the usual setup (some steer with the left stick).

I've heard of some freakin' fast guys (actually, THE freakin' fast guy) using throttle and front brake on stick.

MaX.

i know combined braking is far from my ideal setup. will try your suggestion for left stick and see how it goes.
baby steps.....  ;D
MaX, please post your full full control setup here for me, mate - how exactly are you using rear brake/clutch on left stick?
brake on y axis, clutch on x?

Just my opinion, but doing baby steps you'll lose more time.

Just do one step: throttle left trigger, front brake right trigger, bike lean on right stick, rear brake/clutch on left stick, shift up/down on rear buttons.
Once you're confident with that (allow 4 weeks), you may eventually investigate other setups, but it will take time: this bloody simulator requires some serious practice and the controller setup is something that must be hardcoded in your brain.

MaX.

okay, okay, i'll stay here in the deep end, lol
thanks for the support, much appreciated, mate ;)

here is my controller config...

€: on the x,y,a,b buttons i have waving and kicking

Quote from: HornetMaX on June 22, 2015, 01:01:02 PM
I've heard of some freakin' fast guys (actually, THE freakin' fast guy) using throttle and front brake on stick.

Who? me? lol  ;D

I do use right stick for gas and front brake, rear brake on shoulder button (logitec pad, no triggers), pretty good  :)

Me too! So also the freakin slow guys  ;)

Me too... I use throttle and front brake on joystick axis.

Hawk.

But then, how do you revmatch while braking?

surrounded by curious men  :-X

€:
- Sir! We are surrounded! -
- Excellent! We can attack in any direction! -

Quote from: Warlock on June 22, 2015, 01:59:05 PM
Who? me? lol  ;D

No, not you. I said freakin' fast :)

Quote from: Hawk UK on June 22, 2015, 05:45:22 PM
Me too... I use throttle and front brake on joystick axis.

Rooh ... I meant joypad joystick ... you play with a phallic object ... :)

MaX.

Quote from: HornetMaX on June 22, 2015, 06:20:56 PM

Quote from: Hawk UK on June 22, 2015, 05:45:22 PM
Me too... I use throttle and front brake on joystick axis.

Rooh ... I meant joypad joystick ... you play with a phallic object ... :)

MaX.

that is funny! aaand there are ppl who like "phallic ojects" ive heard  :o

Throttle - Right trigger
Front brake - Left trigger
Steer - Left stick
Clutch - Right stick forward
Rear brake - Right stick back
Gear up - B
Gear down - RB

so when you downshift.. your index finger covers RB and your thumb pushes the right stick forward for clutch..

good to see different setups, i guess we get used to our own way although i think you lot are crazy!!  ;D ;D ;D

Quote from: HornetMaX on June 22, 2015, 06:20:56 PM

Quote from: Warlock on June 22, 2015, 01:59:05 PM
Who? me? lol  ;D

No, not you. I said freakin' fast :)

But, but ...i am  freakin' fast  ;D