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April 26, 2024, 09:09:04 PM

News:

GP Bikes beta21c available! :)


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Messages - uberslug

316
Mods / Re: Ulster GP Needs More Cameras...
July 14, 2017, 09:47:45 PM
Quote from: Napalm Nick on July 14, 2017, 02:00:48 PM
I just tried it and all is working OK.

Run Tracked
Open Track TRP
Zoom out to see whole track to check.
View Camera control
Load track TSC
Make grey window active and press SPACE to go to centreline start
Laugh at the big bearded men
Right click and edit Camera Set
Place cameras as required
Save regularly.

If that isn't working get yourself a fresh TrackED download and try again.  :-\

I will try downloading a 'fresh' TrackED, but, the one I am attempting to use was only downloaded last week.
317
Mods / Re: Ulster GP Needs More Cameras...
July 14, 2017, 09:46:04 PM
Quote from: h106frp on July 14, 2017, 09:36:00 AM
Have you watched through the tutorial ?

http://forum.piboso.com/index.php?topic=575.0

Yes, six times now...

It's not that I don't understand the process. After the placement of an 'orb' the program stops working. There is no activity on the Process Monitor and the image does not respond to any mouse input.
318
Mods / Re: Ulster GP Needs More Cameras...
July 14, 2017, 01:27:06 AM
So, I tried hitting the space bar and it made no difference.

I can see the Ulster GP Course in Plan View but I just get the previously posted gray screen when I open the Camera Settings Dialog Box.



I tried loading Brno and got as far as this image, however, nothing happened after I placed the globe [I waited for 30 minutes for something to happen].



My computer specs are:

Core i7-6700K @ 4.0 Ghz
16GB Ram
AMD FirePro W7000 Display Adapter [computer is primarily used for 3D MCAD]
24" 1440p Display
Windows 10 Professional 64Bit
319
Mods / Re: Ulster GP Needs More Cameras...
July 13, 2017, 02:19:10 AM
Quote from: janaucarre on July 12, 2017, 06:59:44 AM
Hi,
You can go to 'track' , how to do camera to learn how to make what you want.
For special camera look how it is made at the curve 6  at jerez.

So I went back to the tutorial and got the same results which makes me ask the same question again. Here is a screen shot of what I see when I am trying to add a camera.



Either I am doing something really wrong [the instructions make it seem like I should see something other than a gray screen] or there is some kind of issue with the track or the editing tool.

Any help anyone can give would be greatly appreciated.
320
Mods / Re: Ulster GP Needs More Cameras...
July 13, 2017, 01:45:20 AM
I am not looking to epoxy the tires to the tarmac. I just think the Racetec RR3 and Diablo SuperCorsa 3 don't provide as much grip as, say, the Dunlop Moto 2 Hard. I can ride the Kalex Moto 2 bike around Ulster but I prefer the sound of the CBR. Since I have an unlimited budget I thought it would be fun to have some 'real' tires on the CBR.
321
Mods / Ulster GP Needs More Cameras...
July 12, 2017, 12:09:13 AM
I would like to add more cameras to the Ulster GP Course. Can someone point me in the direction of instructions appropriate for my lack of any reasonable level of knowledge on what I want to accomplish?

Also, how does one put stickier tires on the CBR Cup CBR600RR?
322
Plugins / Re: MaxHUD plugin
July 04, 2017, 05:07:13 PM
Tried the left mouse button but didn't try the right. Thank you.
323
Plugins / Re: MaxHUD plugin
July 04, 2017, 12:41:25 PM
Hey Max,

In perusing the many videos and screen shots I noticed the Speed Readout was off set to the right so it wasn't in the middle of the screen. At the time I didn't make a note of what image it was so I can not include a screen shot.

Can the speed readout be moved to the side? I ask because it obscures the road up ahead on the Ulster GP Course and I can see far enough ahead. It doesn't seem to be an issue on race tracks.
324
General Discussion / Re: General Help...
July 02, 2017, 09:21:52 PM
Thank you, your help is greatly appreciated. I will look into the EDTracker.
325
General Discussion / General Help...
July 02, 2017, 08:16:16 PM
I have finished the first phase of my controller and am trying to get a handle on how some of the options in GP-Bikes actually work. I tried reading through the documentation but I was not able to locate an explanation of the following.



It seems as though I can never be certain of where the bike is actually headed. Perhaps I am looking too far down the road, but, it doesn't look as though the bike is lined up with where I want it to go. This visual discrepancy makes it really hard to keep from either running off the inside of the turn or running too wide. Where is one supposed to be looking at on the screen?



Also, what does this do? If I set it to 0 percent the bike remains leaned over when the controller is returned to its neutral position and one has push the controller past the neutral position in order to stand the bike up. When set to 100 percent the bike returns to vertical on its own when the controller is returned to its neutral position. The slider doesn't seem linear in that I do not seem to be able to discern a difference in the return to vertical rate between 20 and 100 percent.
326
Most of the major bits have been added. Still have to add the rear brake reservoir and then fluid [rarely used the rear brake in real life so it will be a challenge learning how to use it effectively]. I am still awaiting the arrival of the seat cowl and I haven't added the lean potentiometer yet. I still have a tidy up the wiring and add some covers to the fragile items.



I tested it out today and everything works almost as well as I had hoped. The clutch lacks a 'grab' point but I can get going even in 'Direct Steer' mode [THAT took quite a few tries to get right]. The shifting feels pretty realistic as does the brake lever action, however, the throttle could use a little less twist [easy enough to fix by printing new parts].

At this point in time I will need to read up on direct steering. I managed to get around Turn Five of Brno going an earth scorching 50 kmh after about an hour of cussing, cursing, and asking myself 'WHY did I think this was a good idea?'.
327
All of the red bits were sourced from China via EBay and totaled less than $150 US. All of the actual production motorcycle bits are used, were also sourced from EBay, and total approximately $250 US [triple clamps, rear brake calipers, rear master cylinder, sub frame, seat]. All of the custom plastic bits [brackets, gears, spacers, fork tube caps, etc.] were printed on my Mojo 3D Printer. Carbon Fiber tubes cost about $30 US. Most of the 8020 was scrounged from my garage from previous projects. With the exception of the load cells [~$60 US each], most of the electrical bits were pretty reasonable [even though I bought plenty of spares just in case] and cost approximately $250 US. The seat cowl was approximately $200 US with shipping. I made a number of custom round parts on my lathe and the only part I have outsourced is the faux 'brake pads'.

This is mostly an intellectual exercise that will [I hope] be a much better controller than the XBox Elite I am currently using. I originally set out to 'think outside the cubicle' when it came to the controls, but, later, decided to just 'get on with it'. I have a tendency to 'work' on designs for inordinate amounts of time trying to make them as 'perfect' as possible before actually producing anything usable so maybe this project will help with that particular affliction as well.
328
Added Rear Brake Caliper and Master Cylinder. Will mount the Reservoir to the sub-frame which should arrive tomorrow.



After much reading and research I decided to use two used CBR600RR Rear Brake Calipers for the brakes. I wanted something that would give roughly the same feel at the lever, have roughly the same amount of lever travel, and require a moderate pull with two fingers for maximum braking. I tried a 50 Kg Load Cell initially but it was too easy to create maximum braking force with one finger. After blowing up a 50 Kg Load Cell and Amplifier when testing with two fingers I slipped in a 200 Kg Load Cell and now have a setup that has enough'range' to allow me to pull firmly on the lever and not worry about blowing up the load cell or amplifier.



My initial thought was to use the piston side brake pad as the resistance plate for the load cell. The testing that fried the electrical parts also bent the brake pad. I modeled up a version that could easily be cut out of 3/8 inch 304 SS with a water jet. The images below show the differences in displacement between the pad and the new resistance plate.

Standard Steel Backed Brake Pad [sintered pad material doesn't add any reinforcement]



Enhanced SS Brake Pad

329
Can never have too much money, but, I do have a lot of spare time as I get over a bicycling accident.

Added a brake caliper for the front brake.


Have also added a steering damper.


Now have working wiring for steering, front brake, throttle, clutch, and shifting.

CBR929RR Seat should be delivered on Monday.
330
Initial frame layout using old 8020 extrusion I found in the garage.



Lean and steering.