controlor settings

[nuovaic]

Well I started with alpha 1 and a Logitech attack joystick. Then found many joysticks that might be better, spent a lot,  none seemed to work as good, less precision etc. Then got a Logitech extreme 3d pro. Started using the twist on the grip for manual left right lean, then the throttle slider for manual forward back lean. Got way too complex for my old brain, stuck at it for a month but ended up back with the best - the original Logitech attack. Actually have broken 3 since the first days,  probably too much pressure on braking... Then added an rc car shock to the handle to get a more simulated brake feel. Works very good. Axis are obvious really, left is left, throttle is forward....trigger for gear up, thumb button  on left for gear down, clutch on throttle slider. Plus 9 other buttons for various things. I used to hold the base as well, but now have it screwed down to the desk. Permanent. Gets in the way when doing office work, but which is more important? Lol.

[Hawk]

Nuovaic. I love your dedication, screwing your joystick to the office table. In fact I might try that myself. Haha

[HornetMaX]

The main annoyance (to me) seems to be having both throttle/brake and lean on the same stick.
Much easier to open gas without affecting the lean when they are on two separate sticks.

But I have to admit I didn't try the joystick long enough.

MaX.

[janaucarre]

Hello,
I play with a ps3 pad, before i was with an xbox360 pad, I use motioninjoy to emulate ps3 pad in xbox 360 pad and i played a long time before i saw there is a deadzone at 12% with original settings in the option mode. Put 0% for R2 L2 and for right stick and left stick, save and recalibrate in gpbikes, you will see another world to play. Enjoy it.

[Couch Racers]

I have a xbox wired controller how do i set it up i am terribly sorry if this has been asked already thx.

[iVolution]

I have it like this:

Brake = left trigger
Throttle = right trigger
Steer = left stick
lean F/B = left stick
Clutch = right stick down
Rear brake = A
Up shift = Y
Down shift = X
Look back = B
Change Mapping = Left bumper
Walk forwards = d-pad up
Walk back = d-pad down
Respawn = back

Left and right d-pad can be used for gestures

[Klax75]

Here is my set up it works for me and I have very small hands for the X-Box Controller.

Right Trigger: Gas
Left Trigger: Front Brake

Right Shoulder Button: Up Shift
Left Shoulder Button: Down Shift

Left Joystick: Left & Right for Steer, Up is for Clutch, Down is for Rear Brake. I have deadzone's set for up and down, so I have to push a little more for them to work. So I don't mistakenly hit the clutch if I push slightly forward. Same for if I pull back.
Left Joystick: Pushed down as a button is to look behind

Right Joystick: All manual movements. Forward, Back, Left and Right.
Right Joystick: Push down as a button right now is to reset Track IR for when I am testing it.

Button Y: Walk Forward
Button X: Walk Backwards
Button A: Raising riders Arm
Button B: Engine Mapping.

Select Button: Reset my Bike back on Track (Also for resetting the bike if I stall)
Start Button: Is for changing views, but I hardly ever use it. Since I only race in Helmet view.

D-Pad Up: Tear Off
D-Pad Down, Left and Right: Various rider Gestures.

[iVolution]

Yeah forgot the add the manual lean thingy.

@ klax: Using the shoulder buttons for shifting forces you to use the middle fingers for throttle/brake. Since the middle fingers are less flexible/sensitive i would not recommend using these for the (most important) throttle and brake. As I can imagine that you have gotten pretty comfortable doing this, have you ever tried it the "more common" way i have it setup?

[HornetMaX]

@ klax: Using the shoulder buttons for shifting forces you to use the middle fingers for throttle/brake. Since the middle fingers are less flexible/sensitive i would not recommend using these for the (most important) throttle and brake. As I can imagine that you have gotten pretty comfortable doing this, have you ever tried it the "more common" way i have it setup?

Yeah but using the A B X Y buttons means that you can't really use the right joystick, right ?
Also, you have the rear brake on a button instead of an analog axis ...

MaX.

[Klax75]

Yeah forgot the add the manual lean thingy.

@ klax: Using the shoulder buttons for shifting forces you to use the middle fingers for throttle/brake. Since the middle fingers are less flexible/sensitive i would not recommend using these for the (most important) throttle and brake. As I can imagine that you have gotten pretty comfortable doing this, have you ever tried it the "more common" way i have it setup?

Your setup is close to what I use in car sim's. But I need my right thumb free for Manual lean, since I don't use any assist when riding.  My setup my not work, or seem weird to some. But for me it works. My middle finger is just as nimble as the rest. I guess to many times being drunk when I was younger using it. lol

It did take a little getting use to having six fingers going all at once but now, if feels odd if I don't hold the control like that.

[iVolution]

Your setup is close to what I use in car sim's. But I need my right thumb free for Manual lean, since I don't use any assist when riding.  My setup my not work, or seem weird to some. But for me it works. My middle finger is just as nimble as the rest. I guess to many times being drunk when I was younger using it. lol

Practice makes perfect  . I only manually lean F/B since also incorporating the L/R is a bit too much for my fingers to handle. Indeed I would have to change my controller setup to your layout to accomodate that.

[August1]

I've just received my Thrustmaster GPX yesterday. It's basically a standard xbox 360 controller but with longer, more precise triggers that have a very small null zone. I've been using the triggers for steering and it feels pretty good.

[HornetMaX]

I've just received my Thrustmaster GPX yesterday. It's basically a standard xbox 360 controller but with longer, more precise triggers that have a very small null zone. I've been using the triggers for steering and it feels pretty good.

What do you mean with "more precise" ? Is it what you feel or just their marketing stuff ?
The original xbox controller has 16bit resolution too (not that means it all in terms of precision anyway).

From the (few serious) reviews I've seen, it seems to be a good controller.

Which controller did you have before ?

MaX.

[August1]

To be honest I haven't tried the original 360 controller with GP Bikes but I'm guessing there would be issues with using its triggers for steering due to the lack of resistance and shortness in the trigger pull as well the rather large dead zone? (so I've heard). Controller setup shows that the GPX triggers are completely progressive - no incremental steps. Btw the rest of the controller is quite flimsy and the overall quality of the controller is not as good as the standard 360 pad.

I'm using the d-pad for shifting and the right analogue stick for gas/front brake. I'm current posting a 1'44 time on the "Victoria" circuit using the Fireblade but then again I've only started playing since last night with the pad. 

[HornetMaX]

To be honest I haven't tried the original 360 controller with GP Bikes but I'm guessing there would be issues with using its triggers for steering due to the lack of resistance and shortness in the trigger pull as well the rather large dead zone? (so I've heard).

You use triggers for steering ?!  Or did you mean sticks ?
That'd be the 1st time I hear of such a setup.

Controller setup shows that the GPX triggers are completely progressive - no incremental steps.

Same for the xbox ones.

I'm using the d-pad for shifting and the right analogue stick for gas/front brake. I'm current posting a 1'44 time on the "Victoria" circuit using the Fireblade but then again I've only started playing since last night with the pad. 

Your setup looks very uncommon: typically people have gas/front brake on the triggers, steering on a stick (a few like to have gas and front brake on a stick too).

MaX.