IASystems Hs2 StreetFighter system

[doubledragoncc]

HI guys.

Thinking on ways to make it cheaper. The one thing I really want to do is use Hall sensors and not pots but I am not sure exactly about what type of magnets to use and I dont have cash to throw away buying wrong stuff lol. The BU control board can take hall sensors too, and load cells with an adapter board (£10) so options are there.

I think someone here was using them for something so if you could let me know who uses hall sensors would be great.

Thanks

DD

[HornetMaX]

The one thing I really want to do is use Hall sensors and not pots

Very good call, if you ask me.

My joypad (a thrustmaster gpx) is misbehaving and it looks like it's related to the pots (could be soldering too, but I inspected it and all seems clean).

Wouldn't bother with load cells: would make sense from the brakes (lever and pedal), but would probably be a bit more complex to fit and surely more expensive.

[h106frp]

Hi DD,
I used - Sensor Hall Effect Ratiometric Linear A1301EUA-T about £2 ea on eb, probably get them cheaper in quantity from a proper supplier

and a pack of  50 small Neodymium block magnets 10mm x 5mm x2mm N35 (£5.50 for 50) on eb- used 2 for each sensor

to create  http://forum.piboso.com/index.php?topic=2025.msg30038#msg30038

Worked great any you could 3D print a custom housing quite easily you just need to keep the magnet and sensor concentric. They wire the same as a conventional pot 3 pins, Vin, GND, Vout

[doubledragoncc]

Thanks Max and H. Yep thought it was H that had said before about Hall sensors.

I need to do this for movements of all throttle and levers so they are large movements. I can get rid of all cables, MTE's etc if I do them directly on the control itself. I can 3D print all housings and parts needed I just need the RIGHT magnets for that amount of movement.

I want to get rid of pots totally if possible. It depends on the strength of the magnets. I have a bit to learn lol. I might be able to do something in the next week to see.

The hall sensors plug straight into the BU board instead of the pots!!! Leo has the right ones ( Allegro A1302) on his site but for £2.50. I tend to go for his stuff as it is guaranteed to work with the BU and give best results. I will look for cheaper too lol.

Thanks for the links and info H

DD 

[HornetMaX]

I don't understand what you mean here DD:

I can get rid of all cables, MTE's etc if I do them directly on the control itself.

it depends on the strength of the magnets

Even with Hall sensors you'll still need springs for the feeling. To me you would just replace your pot with an hall sensor pot: same layout, wiring etc, just better quality, reliability and (likely) accuracy.
You could envisage to put a hall pot directly on the brake lever, but I'm not sure it would be any better/cheaper/more practical.

[h106frp]

Thanks Max and H. Yep thought it was H that had said before about Hall sensors.

I need to do this for movements of all throttle and levers so they are large movements. I can get rid of all cables, MTE's etc if I do them directly on the control itself. I can 3D print all housings and parts needed I just need the RIGHT magnets for that amount of movement.

I want to get rid of pots totally if possible. It depends on the strength of the magnets. I have a bit to learn lol. I might be able to do something in the next week to see.

The hall sensors plug straight into the BU board instead of the pots!!! Leo has the right ones ( Allegro A1302) on his site but for £2.50. I tend to go for his stuff as it is guaranteed to work with the BU and give best results. I will look for cheaper too lol.

Thanks for the links and info H

DD

The 1301 and 1302 (same as the one i linked) are the same device with different magnetic sensitivities per output mV so you should choose the one that best suits your magnet arrangement. Basically they sense the axis of the magnetic field passing through the device so if you use a magnets either side of the device you can create a more predictable magnetic field path i.e.  from the N of one magnet to the S of the other. The magnets linked have the poles on the larger flat faces. You could easily build the magnets into the lever itself with the sensor in the lever frame.

You can buy a pre-made hall effect throttle and its probably cheaper, look on eb, they are cheap and used to control mobility scooter and electric bicycles. They look just like a motorcycle throttle body


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twist-Grip-Throttle-Hall-Effect-Electric-Bike-Quad-Bike-T4-/251961234363?hash=item3aaa0f53bb:g:v44AAOSweW5VVj1J

[doubledragoncc]

HA..................I have the springs directly on the lever assy for that!!! Throttle I must think a bit about lol

I found sensors for £1.85 free postage and magnets for £5.43 free post. I will eat less next week lol.

@H how were the south and north poles set on the unit in the pic H? So I mean the faces of the magnets facing the Hall sensor?

DD

[doubledragoncc]

Sorry but I am not getting it about the faces for N and S I need a diagram lol. I know the principle of it but it is the way you word it. I am an old fart dude.

DD

[HornetMaX]

Just for info, on the Allegro site, the two are kind of discontinued:

http://www.allegromicro.com/en/Products/Magnetic-Linear-And-Angular-Position-Sensor-ICs/Linear-Position-Sensor-ICs/A1301-2.aspx

[doubledragoncc]

Okay thanks for that Max.

As long a they are in stock I can at least experiment lol.

If I can do it so the sensor is directly on the control it would reduce cost a lot I think. 3D printing is brilliant for this shit lol.

DD

[h106frp]

Yes, it looks like they are to be superseded but for low volumes like DD need they should be available for a long time and the replacement device will probably be similar with better performance.

Probably going to a surface mount package rather than through hole.

@DD, maybe this explains it better;

http://www.simpits.org/geneb/?p=299

[doubledragoncc]

Okay thanks H, all I wanted to know is which face, south or north faces IN. So its south of one magnet and north of the other, correct?

I need to have a LARGE movement though? I need to order some parts and experiment with distance for the magnets to work it out.

Thanks guys, great help. I am getting excited lol.

Used to feel the same way about touching a boob for the first time lol

DD

[HornetMaX]

@h106frp: on a large range (e.g. 0 - 180deg) the output will be non-linear: it will need some software compensation, nothing Joystick Gremlin can't handle (*).

For smaller ranges (which should be our case), if the operating point is chosen carefully, it may not be an issue.

(*)
There's a new version of JG out, and an online manual: http://whitemagic.github.io/JoystickGremlin/

[h106frp]

Okay thanks H, all I wanted to know is which face, south or north faces IN. So its south of one magnet and north of the other, correct?

I need to have a LARGE movement though? I need to order some parts and experiment with distance for the magnets to work it out.

Thanks guys, great help. I am getting excited lol.

Used to feel the same way about touching a boob for the first time lol

DD

Yes, N to S. Basically let the magnets stick together, separate  them and place the senors in the middle that the correct arrangement. Throtlle is probably beat as linked above i.e. buy several pre-made from Shenzen vi eb. For the levers i would be thinking of making the lever pivot spindle extend below the frame to use as a shaft for the magnet and your lever frame to hold the sensor so you are back to a predictable arrangement the same as the ones linked

[doubledragoncc]

Okay thanks H, all I wanted to know is which face, south or north faces IN. So its south of one magnet and north of the other, correct?

I need to have a LARGE movement though? I need to order some parts and experiment with distance for the magnets to work it out.

Thanks guys, great help. I am getting excited lol.

Used to feel the same way about touching a boob for the first time lol

DD

Yes, N to S. Basically let the magnets stick together, separate  them and place the senors in the middle that the correct arrangement. Throtlle is probably beat as linked above i.e. buy several pre-made from Shenzen vi eb. For the levers i would be thinking of making the lever pivot spindle extend below the frame to use as a shaft for the magnet and your lever frame to hold the sensor so you are back to a predictable arrangement the same as the ones linked

Ya see that just goes over my head H. I really need pics on stuff like this. Like I said, I need the parts in my hands to experiment with foe distance and movement.

Thanks for trying to explain to a dumb ass lol

DD