Hi guys.
So l have finally started building the new Hs2 StreetFighter system for Darin at InsideSimRacing TV.
It kinda broke my heart to basically destroy the finished Hs1 I had built for them pictured below.
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/Hs1a.jpg)
As it was fully tested and ready to ship I took a deep breath and tore it apart........... :'( :'( :'(
WHY you ask do it, well.................I have finished the designing and 3D printing of the new parts for the Hs2 StreetFighter system!!! WooHoo I am back on track.
After losing ALL my designs and most of 25 years of pics, designs and docs over Christmas when my WIN10 decided to eat my backup drive instead of backing up to another drive and destroyed 2TB of data!!! I had no choice but to start again and decided to re-design everything!!!
See this big ass box in the pic below.................
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/Hs1b.jpg)
Its GONE baby....................out the door wit that shit booyah!
Now the Hs2 has all the handlebar control MTE units ONBOARD!!! right on the bars.
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/Hs2Back.jpg)
Total saving of 60% space needed for the system, less weight, less shipping cost and less furking around for lil ol me.
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/Hs2Front.jpg)
These are quick pics as I just finished the primary build and will now make the new wiring loom and replace all the cheap hardware with nice pretty anodized Allen bolts and shit.
Also made some 3D logos for my brand and InsideSimRacing.
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/IAS%20Logo.jpg)
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/ISR%20Logo.jpg)
Love this 3D printin shit it rocks.
Well I thought I would show you the latest as I know some of you are interested. I hope to have the Hs2 unit finished this week and start testing it in the GPBOC races.
Laters peeps
DD
WOW MATE!! LOOKS AWESOME!!!! I WANT ONE!
These were terrible pics and just literally put it together lol. Will look a LOT better in a day or three.
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on March 15, 2016, 10:00:51 PM
These were terrible pics and just literally put it together lol. Will look a LOT better in a day or three.
DD
I still need one! DAMN! that would be awesome!
I now have old stock of MTE units I may even make DIY kits to bring cost down as they are not cheap to build and take a LOT of hours even though they look simple. The challenge was in making it simple and not over complicating the whole point of the systems. They are made to work, just that simple lol.
DD
Sounds cool. Wish i was as technical and handy that i could make it myself too.
Looking good mate! Really looking like a finished product ;D Great work.
And im impressed that inside sim racing is still going :P i'll wait to see their review ;) (i stopped watching after the first lady left...) ;)
Wow! Very nice work DD!! Looks a lot more compact now that big box has gone.... I'm certainly gonna have to get myself one of these before too long mate. Great work mate.... Keep it up! ;D ;D 8) 8)
Hawk.
Thanks guys but those are really shitty pics and it aint finished lol. It was just after primary build to get cables the right length. You cant see the carbon look face like in the ISR logo pic. Been playing with different material mixes. I could make them look far better, its all about the cost. I custom build for each customer so this is just the standard parts.
I want to also have a set of clocks or digital dash to cover the steering plate that actually works with games too. Have to talk to Leo about it as he can custom make any thing I need.
I also want to keep the size down so it can be transported easy if you want to go somewhere and LAN race with others.
DD
So with all this online racing I have neglected my work lol. Been fun but I need to get ISR's system finished.
Well, it is going slow as it has not been easy having to start over from nothing but the few drawings I had and a good memory of my designs. I am looking at it as a good thing losing the designs as it pushed me in a corner and I came out fighting.
Heres a few picks of the latest 3D MTE units as I decided to re design again from the pics above. Basically, I was not happy with the angle of the cables for the Front Brake and Clutch so I just added an angle to the cable adjuster mount and all components for cable connection.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160407_162432.jpg.7ab725d80a03120030904e49c68e2b0e.jpg)
As you can see it is not much of an angle but all 3 MTE units had to be redesigned and printed to do it. The result is not just cleaner to look at but better for cable wear and fitment.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160407_164825.jpg.6e02e665bbec19d3d5546f9eb1ecce51.jpg)
Heres the 3 new MTE units before fitting to the handlebar back plate to calculate the potentiometer wiring harness.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160407_170425.jpg.d2fbd94678339df804377344d2a57533.jpg)
I have now strength tested the handlebar back plate design and welded and painted it for further fitting of other components. The 3 MTE units are now awaiting the new wiring harness to the Bu0836 USB board this weekend once the finished new lightweight desktop frame is fully ready for strength testing.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160407_171326.jpg.22254c1e52099955a0ed8a740c2cb938.jpg)
Heres the new lightweight desktop frame before fitting of SPSS unit and strength testing. This unit is HALF the size of the Hs1 I had already built for ISR.
Well I need some grub and a coffee break so catch you guys on the flip side.
DD
You've got some great work going there DD... I hope your going to post some pics of the complete assembly when it's done? ;D 8)
Hawk.
nah why show it finished. l wanna keep it to meself lol.
Thanks for the kind words bro.
DD
Lookin good !
Purely out of interest and not knowing nowt about 3d printing materials how strong/durable are those gear teeth? I mean as strong as steel, kevlar, plastic, butter etc ?
Cheers !keep it up! Dont let it get in the way of your racing. And a pic next to a metal rule for scale would be nice, er and maybe some blueprints :P
Would you ever be interested in selling just the control systems without the frame but with plans so people could custom weld a frame?
I can weld stainless (and hopefully ally soon ;D) and I'd be interested in seeing how strong it would be and at what cost :)
Matty :)
Looks great mate!! I'll take one please lol!
Great work mate, looking forward to see the finished product
Heres a scale pic Nick.
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/Gears1.jpg)
All parts are made of ABS and some are reinforced with steel or ali where needed. There gears are really long lasting. I have used the same set for a year and it is hardly woorn as the whole system has been designed to not have much wear and tare on its components. The gears are very strong in fact. You would be surprised at the strength of ABS when it is designed right. All rotating parts run on bearings except the foot control levers.
I can supply parts so you can build some parts, but some of it MUST be made by me only or it might not work right. I used to be the Dealer for Mirage Countach in Germany and Holland and decided to not allow customers to build their own cars as it would damage the reputation of a good product, my systems are the same. I can not guarantee that someone else does it correctly and not break parts due to incorrect build quality. I have to think it over to what degree I do it as it would mean writing a frickin instruction manual which I do NOT want to have to do, I hate that shit. I can tell you by speaking but writing it down sucks kangaroo balls.
I can however say if you supply the bike parts it is okay as long as they have certain specs.
I really do not want to give out my plans in any way but I want to help as much as I can.
Best bet is to email me directly, not PM me here.
And if I sell a system to someone here, I have to figure out about a donation to Piboso, its only fair we help each other.
DD
Sorry, i was referring to JUST this piece -
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160407_171326.jpg.22254c1e52099955a0ed8a740c2cb938.jpg)
Of course anything that have detailed mechanics need to be made by you :P
I'll email in the near future :)
Yep the desktop frame is one part you can make but it has to be done to certain specs for taking the SPSS steering head and hold the USB board.
DD
Sweet thanks for info and scale phots helps a lot. I mean I presumed they were bigger but was also sure they were smaller than I thought lol. Unless that Rolex is the Jolly Green Giants of course. Cheers!
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 07, 2016, 08:19:45 PM
Yep the desktop frame is one part you can make but it has to be done to certain specs for taking the SPSS steering head and hold the USB board.
DD
I've emailed you mate :)
All gears are MOD 1 for strength. I tried 0.8 MOD but it was a bit too fine. MOD 1 is perfect. Naturally using gears means that ALL analog axis are tune able too.
FYI, the custom gears for steering and MTE units that are not round would cost over £300 each to have made due to special tooling. The small gears the same size for RC cars cost £7 a pop and none have the right shaft hole so 3D printing saved me a fortune.
DD
Nice!
Now I hope you don't mind with the questions (hey I'm interested) but did you try your bars (at the design stage) on top of the spindle rather than under the spindle. What am I on about? Hard to explain, bear with me, the actual handlebars in your vids are below the rotating pivot point that they drive. Wondering why that was that choice. To me ( a twat at the best of times) having them above the pivot would give a' leaning' feel and below gives a 'swinging' feel. Both pretty accurate I would of thought, but my question is why did you choose the below pivot idea over above? ??? Flip a coin or engineers choice?
:)
Quote from: Napalm Nick on April 07, 2016, 09:02:44 PM
Nice!
Now I hope you don't mind with the questions (hey I'm interested) but did you try your bars (at the design stage) on top of the spindle rather than under the spindle. What am I on about? Hard to explain, bear with me, the actual handlebars in your vids are below the rotating pivot point that they drive. Wondering why that was that choice. To me ( a twat at the best of times) having them above the pivot would give a' leaning' feel and below gives a 'swinging' feel. Both pretty accurate I would of thought, but my question is why did you choose the below pivot idea over above? ??? Flip a coin or engineers choice?
:)
I might be able to awnser this one :P
Its to give the feeling of counterstering and leaning off the bike if im not mistaken :)
Imagine only having one arse cheek on the seat with your knee down, your upper body shouldn't be in line with the handle bars, it's off to the side you are leaning too. (Unless you are really shit at riding :P)
Engineers choice and riders too. It is hard to explain but basically if it was over the axis, undue stresses would be exerted on certain parts, the system would not be naturally self centering, and it would feel like shit!!! Or I should say it DOES feel like shit as I have tried every possible way bro.
Now to the reality of what the system is and where it is being used. Everyone, and I do mean everyone makes the mistake of saying that a simulation control has to fuction technically like in real life, WRONG. If a system was to function like a real bike in real life while sitting still in a room you will physically damage your muscles due to unnatural movements as you are NOT riding a bike. I could go on for hours and people still would not get it. To do this right, you have to do it WRONG because you have to be practical.
Take my clutch and brake pressures to use them. It all well and good for riding a real bike as you are moving about far more and the actual hydraulics of the brake system help take the work out of braking, but on a simulator where someone will spend far more time and for longer periods of time and the movement is more as it is not hydraulic unless you got big bucks, it will give you hand cramps pretty quick if the pressure is too much. I therefore use springs that take less strength to use as it allows for longer periods of riding without cramp. Also the system must work for ALL not just one person. If you want more pressure just change the springs!!!
The SPSS or Southern Pendulum Steering System allows you to sit 100% naturally and also move naturally. Your hands, wrists, arms, shoulders, neck and back can all be natural and move naturally. As the movement is natural to that of riding on a real bike, it gives a far more immersive feeling.
NFFB or Natural Force Feedback is used by my system as you HAVE to move with the controller in order to use it. Where as on a wheel system with FFB which uses a motor to move the wheel and then just your arms, the Hs2 SPSS steering MAKES you move your WHOLE upper body as you use the system. On my sit on systems with full race bodies and gas tank you will actually find yourself leaning half off the unit as you take a corner lent over.
IF the bars were above the axis, you would find yourself fighting to bring the bars back over from one side to the other, it feels wrong and would cause sever neck ache pretty quick as well as other muscles.
I hope this clears a few points up. Sorry but I am shite at explaining this in writing, I need to speak about it lol
DD
Opps forgot an important one............................
LEAN ANGLE
I have reduced the desktop system to 30 degrees each side as it is bloody impossible to use 60 plus degrees sitting on a couch. AND it hurts!!!
On the sit-on systems a full 60 degrees each side is okay but not when your sitting on a stool, seat or couch. No frickin way matey. Your hands end up at your furkin ankles and its like a frickin yoga workout!!!
On the sit-on system you will actually workup a sweat after half an hour of hard riding.
DD
Especially when covered in cream 8)
Cool answers thanks. The natural centering/natural FFB point particularly floated my boat. The natural movement and ass cheek leaning it induces also. Not too sure about a counter steering feel but maybe. Need to sit on it and feel it!
Easiest way to look at the steering is to think about how you are on a real bike it is simple. if the bike is leaning to the right, that side of the bar is also lent to the right, same with my system. So in 1st person, what you see on screen is what you feel in movement and how the bars look.
To get the bars to lean down on the right, you are actually pushing the tip of the bar left ( I need to make a demo video) it feels 100% natural!!! You are also steering with your whole body as you dont just use your hand, you are actually using your arms together with your back, poo this is hard for me to write lol.
Basically, it just feels right without thinking about it. I never have to think about actually steering, I lean with the bike on screen.
With luck one of you besides CDX will have a go on one and can then write about it better than I can lol.
DD
All sounds pretty amazing to me!! Can't wait to get to try one of those!
To me this seems like one of the most thought through "controllers" i have ever seen or heard about (besides the flight, ship and F1 simulators that cost millions of millions). On the videos it looks great and it looks like the movements are right and i do believe that you would by nature use your whole body, i even do that sitting with a xbox controller so having a real handlebar that would need the movement would be great! Maybe one day it will be all the GPBikes races is for people with your system only, that would be truly amazing!
The sit on version you are talking about sounds mighty impressive! I know you can never really get 100% simulation of riding a real bike, since that depends on many different things such as wieght distribution on bike, you movement on the bike etc. Etc. But this sounds pretty close :)
Really looking forward to follow this project! Keep up the amazing work bro! :D
Thanks guys, positive feedback helps. I is far from perfect, but cost is the big problem to fight.
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 07, 2016, 08:08:45 PM
I really do not want to give out my plans in any way but I want to help as much as I can.
Quite some time ago when the computer was going to be sold I made sure to wipe the disk clean that had all the stuff you had on there. Otherwise I would have offered it when you posted about loosing everything. Didn't want the technology/development to get into the wrong hands or end up passed around for free as you were still working your hardest on getting this off the ground.
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 07, 2016, 11:16:26 PM
With luck one of you besides CDX will have a go on one and can then write about it better than I can lol.
DD
I'll grab my GoPro from my brothers house and the head tracking setup I have, as well as the controller built from your specs. I'll see about a "helmet cam at the desk" video to give an idea of how it looks running some laps. :)
Hi bro, great to hear your using it. I really look forward to seeing a vid.
Big hug atya brother
DD
HI guys, sooooooooooooo..........................
So after yet another new wire feeder(number 3 in 2 weeks) for the welder I got the new SPSS lightweight tower done. You can see that the bars are further away from the table top due to needing space for the Onboard MTE units for the Hs2 systems.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160410_173230.thumb.jpg.f55dab28bef37582a06d9491f382e090.jpg)
Above you can see the new system and the old MTE box that is no longer needed and making the Hs2 half as large as the Hs1.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160410_173401.thumb.jpg.582c65a11d5cb89eb36d7b200db50e89.jpg)
Hs2 SPSS Tower ready to fit the Handlebar and MTE Plate.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160410_173041.thumb.jpg.eaadd5065646a05358c09b93474ccf0c.jpg)
Hs2 SPSS Tower and MTE Plate
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160410_172901.thumb.jpg.21dc7b04438606a77c0bfb3552573378.jpg)
It takes up so much less space, is cleaner and easier to move. Note new "KNOB" for mounting bolt so no tools needed.
Well I should be working out the new wiring loom and mounting of the BU0836 control board tonight.
DD
Nice work DD ;D
Any chance of seeing it fully assembled?
Or haven't you got that far ;) :P
Seriously dude........................did you not realize that is as I am building it lol. Those pics are from today.
I am using my Hs1 at the moment. This is for the ISR show in USA.
I am so busy trying to get videos done I got no time left to work on it lol.......... just kidin, I have to weld in my flat and have to make sure the others are out lol and the bloody wire feed sucks!!! I am in no rush, I like to check everything 3 times and then normally change it all anyways lol.
Dont worry you will see it finished and full video too.
DD
190mins to Meyer vs Manu video upload lol
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 10, 2016, 06:06:41 PMI have to weld in my flat and have to make sure the others are out lol and the bloody wire feed sucks!!!
Sounds like the wire speed is being effected by the fact you are using a standard wall outlet voltage, thus drawing from everything on that circuit. You may have to crank up the wire speed (or shut down any other electrical draw on the system that you can) to get decent flat welds. I'm no metallurgist, but I know enough to now something about metallurgy, and more yet, welding with a shitty 115v welder that cost me $50 at an estate sale. I've since (that was over a decade ago) moved up to a 220v with argon shielding gas and a nice smooth single circuit for the welder itself. Makes all the difference.
I could be totally wrong though. Wouldn't be the first time. lol
Thanks for the advice Grimm but it is a defective product problem, 1st one was defective motor, 2nd replacement turned up with a seized motor so now got the 3rd one and speed seems MUCH better.
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 10, 2016, 06:06:41 PM
Seriously dude........................did you not realize that is as I am building it lol. Those pics are from today.
I am using my Hs1 at the moment. This is for the ISR show in USA.
I am so busy trying to get videos done I got no time left to work on it lol.......... just kidin, I have to weld in my flat and have to make sure the others are out lol and the bloody wire feed sucks!!! I am in no rush, I like to check everything 3 times and then normally change it all anyways lol.
Dont worry you will see it finished and full video too.
DD
190mins to Meyer vs Manu video upload lol
Haha sorry mate. I tought ths one worked with as an upgrade to the old system but its quite clear that its not :P
It is too much work to just be an upgrade as this one used the BU0836NC board which is where all wires are soldered to the board. I have to shorten the whole cable loom so its quite a bit of work. I had to re design as I lost all backup and original files over Christmas!!!
I NEVER rush my work lol
DD
Hi again,
Just tac welded the new lightweight foot control frame for ISRTV. Will get to finish welding and preliminary fitment of control units once I have finished the wiring for the handlebars.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160411_171524.thumb.jpg.8b501a5cb3c18cdf4813bada7fd51e46.jpg)
This is with the footbar at its lowest setting for riding on the couch.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160411_171600.thumb.jpg.55dd717f4dd76d2400fcce4e8bae51be.jpg)
This is with the footbar at its highest for riding on a stool. It is lower than on a real bike btw.
The footbar can be removed from the desktop set frame and mounted on my full sit-on frame units.
All parts are modular to allow for upgrading.
As soon as I can afford it I will build a set for Piboso so he can try them and maybe help with control input for such devices, although I find his controller input almost perfect.
DD
HI, here is the latest update.
I just finished preliminary fitment of main controls to the frames. Angled cable adjusters are so much better. The system is now much more compact and weighs less. Just cutting the foot controls 50mm in one dimension saves £30 in shipping!!! The complete handlebar system can be picked up with just one finger!!! It has been a challenge to make it this compact and I am glad I lost the original designs or I may not have done this for a while yet.
Here's some pics from today's work:
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160414_203121.thumb.jpg.6973b7eaaa658b9575ef659615776299.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160414_203830.thumb.jpg.0b9b0b6091462dba2e69e25f8fc7375a.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160414_203929.thumb.jpg.473e091df2df28eafd4e646ed3017077.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160414_203449.thumb.jpg.0dec64a6dc0d0cd2a3301cbf33bee7e8.jpg)
Well back to the grind. Next up is new wiring and mounting the BU0836 on the desktop frame.
DD
Hi again,
So today I printed up a new cable guide for under the bars to clean things up a bit. I also painted the new badges with the IAS logo and InsideSimRacing logo. I made the design on the old logo as it is better to make in 3D and then print and paint.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160415_105230.thumb.jpg.ee6817bf4d044ac93477cd4b13bdffd2.jpg)
I think this is quite a clean look and hope it is okay for Darin, he did said he liked the black bars. This is my standard set up, I need to find black handlebar risers though.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160415_105301.thumb.jpg.94c5c80e43c7281fc8d0a3036abab7ac.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160415_105346.thumb.jpg.117d3ca85a74a8d060c1c22889f95fd9.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160415_105411.thumb.jpg.338a3dd5c65501a0c2ec33ab9c369636.jpg)
I think I have managed to keep it as clean as possible for such a system. It is so much better to have all the main parts on the handlebars to keep it compact. I am going to try and see if I can also locate the BU0836 control board here too lol. I am my worst enemy for not making things easy on me lol.
And finally the custom badge for Darin.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160415_105541.thumb.jpg.1870401c3d4d73bcfc25214649061b17.jpg)
I decided on the carbon look instead of plain color. So need to fit the new Vishay P260 potentiometers and make it all look pretty, then its time to re-test that it all works fine before moving ahead with the foot controls(again).
DD
Looking really VERY nice DD! ;D 8)
Superb! ;D
Hawk.
Thanks Hawky
Still lots to do. It is hard NOT doing what I want to do because of cost. Trying to make something as cheap as possible yet reliable and clean aint easy.
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 15, 2016, 10:40:48 AM
Thanks Hawky
Still lots to do. It is hard NOT doing what I want to do because of cost. Trying to make something as cheap as possible yet reliable and clean aint easy.
DD
Yeah, I can imagine DD..... But for sure it looks well made and robust, as well as looking great to boot(as they say)! ;D
Hawk.
This looks amazing, I bet using one of these with the oculus rift would be incredible!
Thanks John but dont get me started on the Oculus thing, I hate em lol. You cant see my hard work when you got a butter tub strapped to your face!!!
;D
DD
Looks very professional ddcc !
I presume the angle of the foot pedals can be altered easily? The angle in your current pics would be great if your sitting on a sofa or similar seat, but if I was sitting in a desk chair with my legs and feet angled more like on a real bike then I'd need them at a different angle to what is shown.
I presuming they can, but just making sure with you that is possible. ;) 8)
Hawk.
Thanks Max, I am trying to keep it as simple as possible but just shot myself in the foot today deciding to mount the control board on the bars too!!!
Thanks for the kind words Bambino. Here are some pics of my prototype sit-on systems.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/LS1twins1.jpg.a9b8f1b16ca3ed98137477285f2948eb.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/EbayMotorsRepsol.jpg.eb6f613aeec649971e65e204972b7fa8.jpg)
I used the full race body kit from SharkSkinz in Florida for the Honda CBR1000RR.
DD
@Hawk
The main foot bar moves up and down and each foot control can rotate through full 360 degrees lol. I use them on my couch no problem and the main bar can be taken off the frame to mount directly on a sit-on frame in a matter of seconds.
I will be starting to use the Gixxer rear brake master cylinder and after market hydraulic front brake and clutch system I got soon.
The transducers are expensive but it might be worth the price.
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 15, 2016, 02:11:25 PM
@Hawk
The main foot bar moves up and down and each foot control can rotate through full 360 degrees lol. I use them on my couch no problem and the main bar can be taken off the frame to mount directly on a sit-on frame in a matter of seconds.
I will be starting to use the Gixxer rear brake master cylinder and after market hydraulic front brake and clutch system I got soon.
The transducers are expensive but it might be worth the price.
DD
Thanks for the explanation DD... Sounds great to me! ;D 8)
Those sit-on systems are looking a bit special too mate! NICE! :-* ;D
Hawk.
There 6 years old now lol. The original handlebar prototype on the Repsol one were used for 3 years without a problem and got hammered by clubs, drunken friends and kids lol. I build shit to last hehe.
DD
Looks and sound amazing! For every post you make here i get more and more tempted to hunt you down and steal your systems so i can tey them out!!
The sit ons are amazing! Honda all the way! (Except the motoGP RCV!)
Looks very slick and like solid! Incredible work :)
Thanks bro,
They had to be solid I built those in Florida and there were some fuckin BIG guys testing the systems lol. I had my mates nieces learn on them and they were only 8 and I caught on actually sitting ON the tank as she was so small to reach the bars.
Using them you actually lean half off the dang things with your knee against the tank to stop you falling off the other side!!!
DD
Ello peeps.
Heres todays update.
So, I thought a bit more about mounting the control board on the back of the bars to make the system even simpler and decided to go with it. It cost me a whole Penny more to make a bracket and a few screws and nuts. So worth it lol. Below is the 3D design and the box mounted on the bars with it. I still need to drill the steel bar to screw it on but will do that when I remove the MTE units for the final painting of the bracket after testing it all.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/5712904e2da57_BU0836NCBoxMount.thumb.jpg.21bf512e2f292fd03b708e91f31e9ded.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160416_200020.thumb.jpg.5d6883c7c15e45e226fe83e8207b5914.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160416_200040.thumb.jpg.bf576902b62d2738e8345976c749bff8.jpg)
As you can see it fits great and it has clearance for the steering pot which had stopped me doing it before. Since I re-designed the whole system it is working out much better.
DD
Great stuff mate..... That 3D printer of yours must be one hell of a god-send for you.... Amazing being able to just design and 3D print parts for pennies like that... Brilliant stuff DD! ;D 8)
Looking good mate! ;D
Hawk.
Yeah my CTC is my baby lol.
It is so amazing to sit here, have an idea, open Sketchup and then just print what I designed. Wish it was a quieter baby though lol.
DD
Think I am giving P a run for his money with a daily dev report lol.
So this is the Hs1 photo of the first system I built for Darin with the MTE's and Control board in the frame mounted box.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20151208_153430.thumb.jpg.46b097844db8f6934c353109d537336f.jpg)
NOW below is all that in one package at last.......................
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160417_222415.thumb.jpg.77777b161d16b0fd4fdc926e06ede794.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160417_222501.thumb.jpg.f1b60d196b2d531f58b325642d31936d.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160417_222609.thumb.jpg.846066ffe62c607cd29c14e387b93b4a.jpg)
WOOHOO!!! I did it and it dont look too bad. Still got to drill the mount hole for the control board, I wanted to get the wiring done and tested.
Monday is for the wiring of the MTE units potentiometers and then a preliminary test ride. Handlebars are perfectly balanced too.
I am now feeling proud of my being stubborn lol. It pays in the end.
More to follow soon
DD
It's looking great mate! ;D 8)
Hawk.
Looking very good and tidy! ;)
Looking awesome, with the whole rig set up is gonna be fantastic mate brilliant work DD.... Check your pm box please.
Thanx Toomes.
PM checked and will get back to you asap tonight. In the middle of some work.
DD
Indeed!
So here is todays update.............
FINALLY finished the wiring for the handlebars system completely.................WOOHOO
Its been 4 months of battle and worry it would not work out as I wanted, but it is just that and so much more. I am really happy with the outcome and now just have to do the foot controls and do a full test then make it all look pretty. Here are some pics of the complete handlebar unit Except that one screw hole I need to drill lol) and the preliminary test ride in GP Bikes on the Honda RC213V 2015 MotoGP bike from Manu on Mugello race circuit.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160418_134727.thumb.jpg.df3282866ae8c2f8a64a474771b2be98.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160418_134801.thumb.jpg.7533fadf647caefafea3640d0d6ac9c0.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160418_175147.thumb.jpg.3ab1d13c702cc84dc67c9b3d0b5534dc.jpg)
https://www.youtube.com/v/mLzpfA_a8L4
It's getting closer to being finished. I hope to do a full test by the end of the week. So far it is perfect. Worked 100% on the first try!!!
DD
Wow looks a reet trick unit that DD. Very nice indeed!
(http://www.berkshirehash.co.uk/gs2003/Hash1828_html_756c05af.jpg)
Thanks bro.
love the pic, lucky puppy lol
DD
It already looks pretty and compact DD 8)
Well done m8
Looks very nice already! When you finish everyone on the GPB forum will be waiting in line to get one of your systems! ;)
And then you will be fastest when everybody have to learn to race with that and you have already had a lot of experience with it ;D i see what you are doing there DD! :o
Awesome work!!!!
Thanks bro.....................
Yeah my plan of world domination is working lol.................
In reality, the system is so easy to use and if you ride IRL it is all natural actions. The only thing is your muscle memory you have from using a toy gamepad lol.
DD
@ddcc: if it is as good as it looks, your next task should be to see if you can shave its price down when producing in small batches (e.g. 10 units).
And figure out a nice way to ship this stuff all around the world :)
I have a good shipper but it is still a biggish box as the system now comes almost complete. Takes about 5 to 10 mins to setup.
I am unemployed and have no money mate. I cant afford to build 10 systems!!! These are not CHEAP plastic crap. I may 3D print but its high quality ABS and 40+ hours printing time!!! ONE complete system is 40 hours of actual work so these are not mass produced and people need to understand they are a HANDMADE product.
I wish I had the £200,000 to get a commercial 3D printer but I dont lol. I am working on a kickstarter type project but need to finish the Hs2 completely and be happy before I start it.
If I was rich I would just give you all one!!!
I can only do my best and naturally buying parts in bulk is cheaper but you have to have money to do that so until then I can do nothing.
I make bugger all profit on them now, maybe £50 if I am lucky, but it is not about the money in many ways, its about actually having a product to offer in the first place and not one that uses other companies controllers to do it.
DD
That's understood dd. What I meant is for you to work out what would be the price for producing a small lot (10 sounds reasonable), then come here and open reservations and wait for 10 to pile up.
Eventually you could ask for a partial payment down from the start (just to be sure you're not dealing with kids on pocket money from their parents).
And don't forget that your price is our price. It's not that we have a lot of choice :)
I understand what you mean Max. It is just I also have to work out of my flat and it is not easy to do. I have to be careful for now or I could lose my flat. If I had to build 10 units in one go it would be a bit of a problem. I am looking for some way to do this but not having any friends or family to help makes it tough.
I have always lived in my workshops as I prefer it and I cant do it here in London lol. Costs too much!!!
Also, in all fairness, the price is not much less, as I said, it is a handmade product and how can I make my time cheaper than it is, I get £1.25 an hour out of this!!! I am my own slave labor.
DD
When things are finalized and you have a design that is standard to the production process, I don't see why some of the metal fab stuff couldn't be done in one big production run, shipped to you, and all you would have to do is add electronics, printed gears, cables, etc. allowing you to not have to deal with the welding, metal cutting, etc. Taking a bit of the time out of the process so you can actually make a slightly better profit in order to be able to do more. The market is there, just need the supply to meet the demand. If someone can meet exact specs at a low cost overall, it may open up the ability to do exactly what Max is saying.
Damn shame things went the way they did. A friend of mine just got a huge water jet table that would cut parts in large quantity for next to nothing. I also have access to an argon shielding gas mig welder 24/7, and another close friend has a contract with a hardware company for his bolt/nut/washer supply needs as a mechanic. Maybe if you get things moving in a direction that going global at a slightly higher scale of production could happen, you could have a USA based manufacturer for supplying the base of the units so all you gotta do is paint, bolt them together, wire them up, and send them out. Shipping 5 units worth of parts from the USA to England isn't THAT bad if you can spend more of your own time marketing and finishing rather than developing from scratch and going step by step from start to finish. A shipping crate full of bases and steering plates pre-drilled and welded up ready for paint could transform the process into being twice as fast to go from start to finish of a system.
You're a bull headed old guy anyway so I assume if that even crosses your mind it's only for a moment. But the offer stands. ;)
Part of it too, is that I am still in the market for a CBR250RR, and with an open shipping contract between here and England would make it pretty easy for me to send you to a breaker for an engine, wiring, carbs, etc. and have it boxed up in a shipping crate and sent over with the correct paperwork for customs. Before I die I gotta experience 20,000rpm from a four cylinder engine! The '07 R6 I spent a summer on was just shy of it at 17,000rpm... and a Honda RC166 is never gonna happen. lol 8)
Thanks for the offers Grimm.
Problem is none of you get it. I live on £294 a month and have to pay bills from that, it leaves me nothing, so I cant afford to pay someone to do what is the lowest costing part of this.
Even ordering TEN of everything really dont do jack for saving money on parts. It is not until you do 100plus that you get anything worth its while and then you have to have a place to store it. I have looked at all the ways to save but the thing is there is NO cheap way or QUICK way to do this type or product.
The UK prices and Taxes are so fucking high you would not believe it Ben. It bleeds me dry bro. And then there is availability, if its in UK is often out of stock because the UK supplier gets it from China!!! If its in China it takes ages to get here or costs for shipping. Then theres the fact that Vodafone fucked my bank account(just leave it at that) and I cant get money on my paypal without giving it to a friend, UK fuckin sucks my balls!!!
Unless I have cash on my paypal account I cant do jack shit right now. I have to build to order only due to space and time involved. My room is 20ft by 15ft, thats it and I am not supposed to work in it. I just do the best I can.
The Hs2 is a finalized product. I just need to design other parts like a cover for it but the actual controller is done, finished.
Thank god for paypal, now I just need a top up card for it lol.
Thanks for all the kind words and offers. I will prevail, and I will stomp ass to do it lol
DD
HI guys.
Thinking on ways to make it cheaper. The one thing I really want to do is use Hall sensors and not pots but I am not sure exactly about what type of magnets to use and I dont have cash to throw away buying wrong stuff lol. The BU control board can take hall sensors too, and load cells with an adapter board (£10) so options are there.
I think someone here was using them for something so if you could let me know who uses hall sensors would be great.
Thanks
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 20, 2016, 08:57:17 AM
The one thing I really want to do is use Hall sensors and not pots
Very good call, if you ask me.
My joypad (a thrustmaster gpx) is misbehaving and it looks like it's related to the pots (could be soldering too, but I inspected it and all seems clean).
Wouldn't bother with load cells: would make sense from the brakes (lever and pedal), but would probably be a bit more complex to fit and surely more expensive.
Hi DD,
I used - Sensor Hall Effect Ratiometric Linear A1301EUA-T about £2 ea on eb, probably get them cheaper in quantity from a proper supplier
and a pack of 50 small Neodymium block magnets 10mm x 5mm x2mm N35 (£5.50 for 50) on eb- used 2 for each sensor
to create http://forum.piboso.com/index.php?topic=2025.msg30038#msg30038 (http://forum.piboso.com/index.php?topic=2025.msg30038#msg30038)
Worked great any you could 3D print a custom housing quite easily you just need to keep the magnet and sensor concentric. They wire the same as a conventional pot 3 pins, Vin, GND, Vout
Thanks Max and H. Yep thought it was H that had said before about Hall sensors.
I need to do this for movements of all throttle and levers so they are large movements. I can get rid of all cables, MTE's etc if I do them directly on the control itself. I can 3D print all housings and parts needed I just need the RIGHT magnets for that amount of movement.
I want to get rid of pots totally if possible. It depends on the strength of the magnets. I have a bit to learn lol. I might be able to do something in the next week to see.
The hall sensors plug straight into the BU board instead of the pots!!! Leo has the right ones ( Allegro A1302) on his site but for £2.50. I tend to go for his stuff as it is guaranteed to work with the BU and give best results. I will look for cheaper too lol.
Thanks for the links and info H
DD
I don't understand what you mean here DD:
QuoteI can get rid of all cables, MTE's etc if I do them directly on the control itself.
Quoteit depends on the strength of the magnets
Even with Hall sensors you'll still need springs for the feeling. To me you would just replace your pot with an hall sensor pot: same layout, wiring etc, just better quality, reliability and (likely) accuracy.
You could envisage to put a hall pot directly on the brake lever, but I'm not sure it would be any better/cheaper/more practical.
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 20, 2016, 09:32:21 AM
Thanks Max and H. Yep thought it was H that had said before about Hall sensors.
I need to do this for movements of all throttle and levers so they are large movements. I can get rid of all cables, MTE's etc if I do them directly on the control itself. I can 3D print all housings and parts needed I just need the RIGHT magnets for that amount of movement.
I want to get rid of pots totally if possible. It depends on the strength of the magnets. I have a bit to learn lol. I might be able to do something in the next week to see.
The hall sensors plug straight into the BU board instead of the pots!!! Leo has the right ones ( Allegro A1302) on his site but for £2.50. I tend to go for his stuff as it is guaranteed to work with the BU and give best results. I will look for cheaper too lol.
Thanks for the links and info H
DD
The 1301 and 1302 (same as the one i linked) are the same device with different magnetic sensitivities per output mV so you should choose the one that best suits your magnet arrangement. Basically they sense the axis of the magnetic field passing through the device so if you use a magnets either side of the device you can create a more predictable magnetic field path i.e. from the N of one magnet to the S of the other. The magnets linked have the poles on the larger flat faces. You could easily build the magnets into the lever itself with the sensor in the lever frame.
You can buy a pre-made hall effect throttle and its probably cheaper, look on eb, they are cheap and used to control mobility scooter and electric bicycles. They look just like a motorcycle throttle body
(http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twist-Grip-Throttle-Hall-Effect-Electric-Bike-Quad-Bike-T4-/251961234363?hash=item3aaa0f53bb:g:v44AAOSweW5VVj1J)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twist-Grip-Throttle-Hall-Effect-Electric-Bike-Quad-Bike-T4-/251961234363?hash=item3aaa0f53bb:g:v44AAOSweW5VVj1J (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twist-Grip-Throttle-Hall-Effect-Electric-Bike-Quad-Bike-T4-/251961234363?hash=item3aaa0f53bb:g:v44AAOSweW5VVj1J)
HA..................I have the springs directly on the lever assy for that!!! Throttle I must think a bit about lol
I found sensors for £1.85 free postage and magnets for £5.43 free post. I will eat less next week lol.
@H how were the south and north poles set on the unit in the pic H? So I mean the faces of the magnets facing the Hall sensor?
DD
Sorry but I am not getting it about the faces for N and S I need a diagram lol. I know the principle of it but it is the way you word it. I am an old fart dude.
DD
Just for info, on the Allegro site, the two are kind of discontinued:
http://www.allegromicro.com/en/Products/Magnetic-Linear-And-Angular-Position-Sensor-ICs/Linear-Position-Sensor-ICs/A1301-2.aspx (http://www.allegromicro.com/en/Products/Magnetic-Linear-And-Angular-Position-Sensor-ICs/Linear-Position-Sensor-ICs/A1301-2.aspx)
Okay thanks for that Max.
As long a they are in stock I can at least experiment lol.
If I can do it so the sensor is directly on the control it would reduce cost a lot I think. 3D printing is brilliant for this shit lol.
DD
Yes, it looks like they are to be superseded but for low volumes like DD need they should be available for a long time and the replacement device will probably be similar with better performance.
Probably going to a surface mount package rather than through hole.
@DD, maybe this explains it better;
http://www.simpits.org/geneb/?p=299 (http://www.simpits.org/geneb/?p=299)
Okay thanks H, all I wanted to know is which face, south or north faces IN. So its south of one magnet and north of the other, correct?
I need to have a LARGE movement though? I need to order some parts and experiment with distance for the magnets to work it out.
Thanks guys, great help. I am getting excited lol.
Used to feel the same way about touching a boob for the first time lol
DD
@h106frp: on a large range (e.g. 0 - 180deg) the output will be non-linear: it will need some software compensation, nothing Joystick Gremlin can't handle (*).
For smaller ranges (which should be our case), if the operating point is chosen carefully, it may not be an issue.
(*)
There's a new version of JG out, and an online manual: http://whitemagic.github.io/JoystickGremlin/ (http://whitemagic.github.io/JoystickGremlin/)
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 20, 2016, 10:06:34 AM
Okay thanks H, all I wanted to know is which face, south or north faces IN. So its south of one magnet and north of the other, correct?
I need to have a LARGE movement though? I need to order some parts and experiment with distance for the magnets to work it out.
Thanks guys, great help. I am getting excited lol.
Used to feel the same way about touching a boob for the first time lol
DD
Yes, N to S. Basically let the magnets stick together, separate them and place the senors in the middle that the correct arrangement. Throtlle is probably beat as linked above i.e. buy several pre-made from Shenzen vi eb. For the levers i would be thinking of making the lever pivot spindle extend below the frame to use as a shaft for the magnet and your lever frame to hold the sensor so you are back to a predictable arrangement the same as the ones linked
Quote from: h106frp on April 20, 2016, 10:14:57 AM
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 20, 2016, 10:06:34 AM
Okay thanks H, all I wanted to know is which face, south or north faces IN. So its south of one magnet and north of the other, correct?
I need to have a LARGE movement though? I need to order some parts and experiment with distance for the magnets to work it out.
Thanks guys, great help. I am getting excited lol.
Used to feel the same way about touching a boob for the first time lol
DD
Yes, N to S. Basically let the magnets stick together, separate them and place the senors in the middle that the correct arrangement. Throtlle is probably beat as linked above i.e. buy several pre-made from Shenzen vi eb. For the levers i would be thinking of making the lever pivot spindle extend below the frame to use as a shaft for the magnet and your lever frame to hold the sensor so you are back to a predictable arrangement the same as the ones linked
Ya see that just goes over my head H. I really need pics on stuff like this. Like I said, I need the parts in my hands to experiment with foe distance and movement.
Thanks for trying to explain to a dumb ass lol
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 20, 2016, 09:49:55 AM
HA..................I have the springs directly on the lever assy for that!!! Throttle I must think a bit about lol
My bad. Yes, if you can have the hall sensors directly on the levers, that would spare you some parts.
For the throttle: maybe you can keep your cable: it will move a single magnet closer/farther to the hall sensor's face.
You will need to play with this a bit to find the right min/max distance (to have correct range, resolution, linearity), but in principle it should work fine.
@h106frp: ever tried this ?
I don't like the ebay throttle, it looks cheapo with respect to ddcc's system :)
Or there's the other option: mount the hall sensor+magnets inside the throttle (so that they work directly on the rotation).
Thats what I want for throttle directly on the inner tube you put the grip on. If I can put the magnets on the disc part where the cable hooks in so it measures the rotation. Setup is like for speed sensor and not in the middle of the magnets. All inside the throttle housing!!!
DD
The other problem using hall sensor pots is that the P260 is only 13mmx13mm housing so is real small for my MTE. A home made hall pot would be far bigger.
DD
You need to work to the strengths of the device, for the throttle what about using the other end of the throttle tube overhanging the bar tube as the magnet carrier, sensor in a plug in the bar end, all covered by the grip and the wires running down the bar tube. The throttle return spring could then be hidden in the normal end, an extension spring wrapped around the throttle pull drum.
I have not used them in linear gap mode only rotational field angle, as you indicated, in a linear gap sensing arrangement the field is non-linear with distance (square law). The device itself is linear within +-2.5%, probably better than most 'linear' pots ;)
Quote from: h106frp on April 20, 2016, 11:04:40 AM
The throttle return spring could then be hidden in the normal end, an extension spring wrapped around the throttle pull drum.
That doesn't look trivial though. I'd be happy with DD current setup for the throttle spring (cable+spring), but with a hall sensor.
If the sensors for the levers can be placed directly on the levers, that's good.
Quote from: h106frp on April 20, 2016, 11:04:40 AM
I have not used them in linear gap mode only rotational field angle, as you indicated, in a linear gap sensing arrangement the field is non-linear with distance (square law).
Actually I think in "linear mode" (e.g. magnet facing the sensor face and moving away from the sensor / towards the sensor), the dependency is on 1/d^3.
Still, that may not be a big problem, there are many ways to correct this (assuming the correction is needed at all).
Anyway, in rotation mode you have a sinusoidal dependency, because the sensor measures only the component of the field that is orthogonal to the sensor face: as your magnets rotate around the sensor, that component varies as cos(angle).
If you have your sensor and magnets at hand, you could just do a simple test (fix the sensor, measure the output tension, then move the magnet with your hand closer/farther to the sensor).
Yep and thats the truth of it. Gotta have the parts in my hands to test.
Thanks for all your help guys. I will sort out money for paypal via a neighbor on Friday and order the parts. Need hardware and paint too so is all good.
Just wiring the foot controls for first test of full Hs2 system tonight.
DD
Quote from: HornetMaX on April 20, 2016, 11:20:20 AM
Quote from: h106frp on April 20, 2016, 11:04:40 AM
The throttle return spring could then be hidden in the normal end, an extension spring wrapped around the throttle pull drum.
That doesn't look trivial though. I'd be happy with DD current setup for the throttle spring (cable+spring), but with a hall sensor.
If the sensors for the levers can be placed directly on the levers, that's good.
Quote from: h106frp on April 20, 2016, 11:04:40 AM
I have not used them in linear gap mode only rotational field angle, as you indicated, in a linear gap sensing arrangement the field is non-linear with distance (square law).
Actually I think in "linear mode" (e.g. magnet facing the sensor face and moving away from the sensor / towards the sensor), the dependency is on 1/d^3.
Still, that may not be a big problem, there are many ways to correct this (assuming the correction is needed at all).
Anyway, in rotation mode you have a sinusoidal dependency, because the sensor measures only the component of the field that is orthogonal to the sensor face: as your magnets rotate around the sensor, that component varies as cos(angle).
If you have your sensor and magnets at hand, you could just do a simple test (fix the sensor, measure the output tension, then move the magnet with your hand closer/farther to the sensor).
The arrangement with the magnet rotating around the sensor is a bit different, the field passes though the sensor at a fixed distance but if i get a chance i will unplug one of mine and try and get a plot of rotor angle/output voltage. From memory it was pretty good but for my application of servo feedback it was not very important.
Looks like you screwed the quote h106frp :)
Thank you ;)
Had a quick look and the new sensors out are quite incredible, fully programmable, digital or analogue outputs and 2D/3D position sensing all for £2.50 (pack 10) in a 4 pin package. No wonder the older devices are being discontinued.
http://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Micronas/HAL3726DJ-A/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvhQj7WZhFIACDIEknn%2ftHt%252bK7k3K3ZAWO0XfQBSJiqsg%3d%3d (http://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Micronas/HAL3726DJ-A/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvhQj7WZhFIACDIEknn%2ftHt%252bK7k3K3ZAWO0XfQBSJiqsg%3d%3d)
Quote from: h106frp on April 20, 2016, 11:47:13 AM
Quote from: HornetMaX on April 20, 2016, 11:20:20 AM
Anyway, in rotation mode you have a sinusoidal dependency, because the sensor measures only the component of the field that is orthogonal to the sensor face: as your magnets rotate around the sensor, that component varies as cos(angle).
The arrangement with the magnet rotating around the sensor is a bit different, the field passes though the sensor at a fixed distance
The distance doesn't change in the rotating arrangement, but the angle between the magnetic dipole and the sensor does change, hence the cos(angle) dependency.
The (old) sensor only measures the field perpendicular to the sensor face.
Quote from: h106frp on April 20, 2016, 12:05:03 PM
Thank you ;)
Had a quick look and the new sensors out are quite incredible, fully programmable, digital or analogue outputs and 2D/3D position sensing all for £2.50 (pack 10) in a 4 pin package. No wonder the older devices are being discontinued.
If you look at the video, the HAL37 can be used for linear movements too.
Seems to be OK for 30mm movement (not shure what's the movement for throttle in dd's system).
http://www.mouser.co.uk/new/micronas/micronas-HAL-37xy-sensors/ (http://www.mouser.co.uk/new/micronas/micronas-HAL-37xy-sensors/)
Good find. Problem is with my electronic knowledge=0 I need 3 pin input only!!! I do not want to have to add additional electronics to use a hall sensor. The BU0836 needs direct connect only. The sensor in the video and links has 4 connectors???
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 20, 2016, 01:30:50 PM
Good find. Problem is with my electronic knowledge=0 I need 3 pin input only!!! I do not want to have to add additional electronics to use a hall sensor. The BU0836 needs direct connect only. The sensor in the video and links has 4 connectors???
The 4th pin is unneeded (test stuff), you can use it as a 3pin.
But that new sensor is a bit more complex than the old one (because it can do much more), so if you're not comfortable with electronics and similar stuff, it may be a no-go for your purpose.
You'll have to program it to get full benefit of its features. Might be tricky for you.
@h106frp: just seen a data sheet on the micronas site: you can program the linarisation curve directly in the sensor :)
I might be old but I can still learn lol.
Great reply Max thanks.
Worth buying one to play with.
DD
I am getting a lot of interest in the system for consoles but I can do it rewiring a gamepad to an extent but I dont know if cronus max would do it or the M4, you guys know anything about that?
Have you tried plugging Leos board into an xbox? the xbox controller is only a small variant of the standard USB HID. If it is recognised then the PS converter should work as well
If I recall correctly, you can't plug a non-XBox-compatible (certified) device into an xbox (but you can plug an xbox compatible device into a pc).
If you check on Thrustmaster site, they have a GPX XID pad that is PC only (no xbox), while the other GPX pads (GPX, GPX lightback and GPX Ferrari) are both PC and XBox.
Of course the XID (pc only) is cheaper by 5GBP (20 vs 25 for the same pad for pc+xbox).
I know this because I stumbled on this a while ago: http://www.theregister.co.uk/2010/02/17/infineon_tpm_crack/ (http://www.theregister.co.uk/2010/02/17/infineon_tpm_crack/)
Looks like using a certified controller as a hardware donor is the only way then. >:(
Another reason to avoid the consoles ;D
Quote from: h106frp on April 20, 2016, 02:36:34 PM
Looks like using a certified controller as a hardware donor is the only way then. >:(
But potentially you could run into legal troubles doing so ...
Holy crap........................
I actually prefer to use a legal controller. If I do and it is purchased it can be used as you want, If I then add wires to it, I am still using a legal item.
What about Scuff or woteva grT uses, they are modded game pads and openly marketed with NO problems.
I need donors lol and a doner lol thinking of food sorry.
There are aftermarket pads too.
The reason it is important is the MASSIVE amount of console gamers that are very serious about gaming too.
It would feel wrong to jump on the "PC is best, fuck consoles" band wagon as I think in time, consoles will get real sims too.
Thanks for the input Max n H. You guys have been a great help today.
DD
Hi guys, here is today's update.
I wired up the foot controls and tested them in Windows Controller Properties and all is Hunky Dorey. Naturally as I am only using the cheaper version of the BU0836 USB control board (sorry Darin), it only has 12 digital inputs. I wire the system so that all 12 buttons on the handlebars can be used plus the gearshift on the foot controls. This means I need 14 inputs so I double connect the right vertical bar switch and the gearshift input connector to the same inputs. This means when you use the system without foot controls you have 12 buttons and when you use the foot controls you still only have 12 buttons but the numbers 2 and 3 inputs are doubled. This makes it better for situations like going over to a friends and not wanting to have to take the foot controls too possible with out loss of 2 buttons.
I will be doing a test ride later. Need a coffee break lol. Here are a few pics of the foot controls with the system and each unit. This is before painting, adding end caps and final assembly.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160420_161419.thumb.jpg.29a2eb3dd618b885afd4931c981c1973.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160420_160952.thumb.jpg.98d8964d57bb1132c934f6e6be219a64.jpg)
The rear brake unit.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160420_160928.thumb.jpg.76e1d9f502ff2dd439c0d8c5ecfe9b2c.jpg)
The gearshift unit.
Well I'm off for a coffee and some grub. Have a good evening folks
DD
I LIKEY!! Great job, DD! ;D 8)
Hawk.
ME LIKEY!!! Now i really need to come steal it! ;)
Thanks bro. Looks much better painted and with new hardware.
Hoping to get a sale to Singapore tonight then can make it all pretty lol.
Wish I could powder coat it but its £60 to get done as one off. They will give me a great price per part but their minimum is £60 which is £45 over what it costs!!!
Gonna wait for Manu's 1.2 update for the test ride.
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 20, 2016, 01:53:26 PM
Quote from: HornetMaX on April 20, 2016, 01:47:11 PM
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 20, 2016, 01:30:50 PM
Good find. Problem is with my electronic knowledge=0 I need 3 pin input only!!! I do not want to have to add additional electronics to use a hall sensor. The BU0836 needs direct connect only. The sensor in the video and links has 4 connectors???
The 4th pin is unneeded (test stuff), you can use it as a 3pin.
But that new sensor is a bit more complex than the old one (because it can do much more), so if you're not comfortable with electronics and similar stuff, it may be a no-go for your purpose.
You'll have to program it to get full benefit of its features. Might be tricky for you.
I might be old but I can still learn lol.
Just found that: https://www.micronas.com/en/micronas-presents-new-affordable-usb-kit (https://www.micronas.com/en/micronas-presents-new-affordable-usb-kit)
May help you with the programming, in case :) It doesn't seem too expensive (125$, for the USB thingy, plus 40$ for the board).
They also have kits with the usb programmer, the test boards, 4 sensors (3d analog, 3d PWN, linear analog, linear PWM) , a few magnets: http://www.semiconductorstore.com/cart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=56702 (http://www.semiconductorstore.com/cart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=56702) but as likely you have no use for PWM sensors ...
Just had an idea DD...... You know we were talking about getting a nice progressive feel for the brakes and clutch lever pressures? Well how about placing industrial strength magnets in positions were they will appose each other as you pull on the Clutch and brake levers? This will give a great sense of having to apply greater pressure when pulling the levers in.... Any good to you? ;) ;D
Hawk.
Quote from: Hawk on April 21, 2016, 02:56:21 PM
Just had an idea DD...... You know we were talking about getting a nice progressive feel for the brakes and clutch lever pressures? Well how about placing industrial strength magnets in positions were they will appose each other as you pull on the Clutch and brake levers? This will give a great sense of having to apply greater pressure when pulling the levers in.... Any good to you? ;) ;D
Won't work: the levers have huge leverage. Anyway the feeling would'n't be any better than what you have with a spring.
Nice feeling for brakes = load cell.
Clutch is no issue: on real bikes it's a spring too (unless it's hydraulic).
Had a try with the 12.5mm dia force sensing resistors and an op-amp to linearise the output. Works very well with the sensor pressed by a brass piston below the actuating lever. It has a spring pre-load on the lever to allow a bit of adjustable dead zone on the lever travel before it becomes fully force sensing and small enough to work alongside my paddle shift on the GPX pad.
On hold till i finish some other stuff ;)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QNjceuSj5u8/Vxjul0hekYI/AAAAAAAAAuU/dZ3BQnU-aTYXOLPMNcTHlE8IzluK4FfJQCL0B/w1184-h665-no/WP_20160421_16_11_08_Pro.jpg)
Thanks for the input guys.
All ideas are great, problem is COST. If you want real life feeling it has to be with a hydraulic unit, which I have new for brakes and clutch. Most modern bikes have Hydraulic clutch. I have a transducer to test but need hose and want to try other fluids as shipping with brake fluid is a BIG NONO!!!
My system now is as I think it should be as it is for EVERYONE not just die hard bikers lol. I have to think of prolonged hours of riding with it, hand cramps, etc.
At the end of the day I refuse to over complicate the standard for individual wishes, I can do that with each build as per someones wishes.
I really am not going to get into programming dang chips Max. I have enough to do lol. Thanks for the info and time spent looking bro.
Everyone is forgetting the most important point and telling me to do this and that to make it real but its frickin EXPENSIVE!!!! I am making a system the works the right way first, then I will worry about IRL feel.
End of the day ANYTHING like my system is a thousand times more realistic than a fuckin game pad!!!
DD
Quote from: h106frp on April 21, 2016, 03:22:53 PM
Had a try with the 12.5mm dia force sensing resistors and an op-amp to linearise the output. Works very well with the sensor pressed by a brass piston below the actuating lever. It has a spring pre-load on the lever to allow a bit of adjustable dead zone on the lever travel before it becomes fully force sensing and small enough to work alongside my paddle shift on the GPX pad.
On hold till i finish some other stuff ;)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QNjceuSj5u8/Vxjul0hekYI/AAAAAAAAAuU/dZ3BQnU-aTYXOLPMNcTHlE8IzluK4FfJQCL0B/w1184-h665-no/WP_20160421_16_11_08_Pro.jpg)
Looks clean bro. Nice work.
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 21, 2016, 03:32:29 PM
Everyone is forgetting the most important point and telling me to do this and that to make it real but its frickin EXPENSIVE!!!!
(http://i0.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/newsfeed/001/023/007/f29.png)
We don't have amnesia, you keep saying
everyone is forgetting this point and that point you keep making, but all I see here is people posting on a public forum discussing your setup. If it's too expensive don't implement it. No need to explain yourself or why it won't be in a final production setup every 10th reply to the thread. ;)
I for one learn alot by watching the discussions about hydraulics, load sensors, VR, and physics in general. Just saying, you are asking for people to discuss your setup, expect some things that may not be exactly your vision. I'm pretty sure we all are crystal clear on the mission statement of your company. :)
Hi grimm, yeah I do explain why I wont do something out of respect for someone who has taken the time to offer an idea. Some are things I personally want too, but cost is the issue.
As the systems are only built to order, you can ask to have what you want lol. I will even make a pink one if you want (grT) and add silly fringes from the grips if it floats ya boat lol.
I also feel guilty if someone takes so much time to think, look and leave a link for an idea that the least I can do is give a thank you and a reason as to me not using the idea.
DD
Amazing work mate!!
Very very beautiful!
Hi guys,
Here is todays update.
After forgetting my 3D printer only prints so big I had to redesign the MTE cover. Not sure how it will turn out but I can but try lol. Decided to clean up the printer first as the hairspray I use for it makes a bloody mess lol.
Here is a pic of the design on the 3D splicing table to create the file to print her up.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/571e82da8eca0_bandicam2016-04-2521-15-21-346.jpg.0dc3fccc93327785aa2b60bf912fb2a3.jpg)
Well it will be a long print and I need some sleep for once so it has to wait until the morning.
DD
Looking good mate! ;) 8)
As the printing takes a long time and you need some sleep, why not set it printing and go and have your sleep? That way it will be complete by the time you wake up. It'll save you time, no? ;D
Hawk.
DUDE!!!!...............................I wish
That is something many forget with 3D printing. You have to check all the time as so many factors can screw it up. It took 10 goes to get this to start properly because it is so big and where my printer was damaged by the fucking roofing worker and never got comp for it just asaulted I have problems with big prints.
Before someone suggests get a company to do it, in UK the 3D printing prices are high. For ONE of my MTE units the cheapest some company will print them at for a multiple order is £38!!! That would cost 30 quid plus more than it costs me to make the WHOLE MTE!!!
11th try is printing now and fingers crossed lol
DD
EDIT: Oh and it is only 4 ft from my bed and do you know how loud these things are lol. Drives me crazy!!!
EDIT: FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK!!!................................
No 11 failed so back to the 3D drawing board. I will try to make it in parts which I did not want but have no choice it is just TOO big lol.
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 26, 2016, 11:01:24 AM
DUDE!!!!...............................I wish
That is something many forget with 3D printing. You have to check all the time as so many factors can screw it up. It took 10 goes to get this to start properly because it is so big and where my printer was damaged by the fucking roofing worker and never got comp for it just asaulted I have problems with big prints.
Before someone suggests get a company to do it, in UK the 3D printing prices are high. For ONE of my MTE units the cheapest some company will print them at for a multiple order is £38!!! That would cost 30 quid plus more than it costs me to make the WHOLE MTE!!!
11th try is printing now and fingers crossed lol
DD
EDIT: Oh and it is only 4 ft from my bed and do you know how loud these things are lol. Drives me crazy!!!
EDIT: FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK!!!................................
No 11 failed so back to the 3D drawing board. I will try to make it in parts which I did not want but have no choice it is just TOO big lol.
Sorry mate.... I didn't realise that you had to keep your eye on the process while it was printing; it certainly doesn't sound as straight forward as a normal sheet paper printer where you can set it to print a batch of pages out and then go off and have a beer or something while it finishes. :-\
You'll sort it I'm sure! ;D 8)
Hawk.
BASTARD!!!! that feels better
SO............................................ I did this.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/571f76a7171a9_MTETopCover.thumb.jpg.8f7c61cb18f1cca29c571e68079d1008.jpg)
That piece is printing right now and so far so good, fingers, eyes, legs and me nuptials all crossed. IF it works out the next piece is bigger so will cross everything harder......OUCH
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/571f76af32f77_MTELowerCover.thumb.jpg.c4bdad6564a278538f5d5f7cd84b3c3f.jpg)
Wish me luck lol.
DD
NOT my day........................
Just 15 mins after I had last checked it this happened!!! As it is in a covered printer I did not notice it, which dont matter in a way, its screwed!!!!
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160426_153500.thumb.jpg.e479bc43610a5572ee75ec2a2effb4c9.jpg)
This is how it can be the day after you clean a 3D printer and level the bed. it takes a while to get her working right. I will have no hair by the end of the day. I may even just do it another way lol. This is print 13 after all!!!
DD
No worries because you have printed some spare hair there!
Bad luck DD :( keep fighting! :)
Noooooo! >:(
YES!!!......................................
AND 13 warped as well. It is just one of those days. I will take a break before the Hammer Of Wrath doth cometh!!!
DD
Take a little break and rest is essential! Also for the the printer maybe :-X
just pay the 30 quid DD ;D looks like a nightmare..
Yeah I pay 30 quid and something dont fit, that's the whole point of printing the parts first no matter what and I am not gonna wait 2 weeks min to get a part that dont work lol.
It might be the parameters I set for the print. I will get it done after a break. As I said first day after bed leveling is a bitch lol.
DD
OK.............................
Today's update is a bit better, not perfect but better. So I finally got the top cover printed, DD 1 3D printer 15!!! As I said, it is always a pain after resetting the printer. In the morning I will make another one and the lower too, new designs lol.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160427_175727.thumb.jpg.eb592762459e32d1a63dda10b8f382e3.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160427_175903.thumb.jpg.c8f1d53fca68729d7f62ad07adfcc968.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160427_175958.thumb.jpg.fa55a668a9597203616536ad78f00706.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160427_180051.thumb.jpg.9c4010df79cfaf59f9a302dda02eab30.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160427_180132.thumb.jpg.8d22baf1a9bdf82d58aaa56d414860b6.jpg)
I find it really cleans up the system. Top took 3.41hours to print and lower will be more, thats an extra 8 hours on the 40plus hours printing time already!!! I think it is worth it though.
I also got my new rear brake springs and other hardware in. The new springs are 1500Nm strong compared to the 1000 and 2000 springs I tested. This is so much better for feel and prolonged use.
Black spring is the new one.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160427_123306.thumb.jpg.b69b78633b793c02a3b0c7584fff1318.jpg)
Well I have a 125RR Cup race on Norisring to practice and qualify in and will leave the rest until morning.
DD
Lookin good mate I'm glad that cover came out in the end!
Yeah looks really good DD! :) Can i get one pretty pleaes? ;)
You got there mate! Nice job! ;) 8)
Hawk.
Thanks guys, was a battle but more to come. It is a love/hate relationship with a 3D printer lol.
Will redesign the covers again though and print tomorrow.
It is so worth the time for those covers I think they really make it look far more finished.
DD
Why cant I just settle for no cover??? lol
So I decided to start from sorta scratch, I made the cover bigger lol and then cut it into 4 parts.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/572245cde993c_Hs2MTECoverparts.thumb.jpg.1c3d8dd24332d42c859334c6d4c0b881.jpg)
First part is on the printer now so got everything crossed. 3DPO (I just named it after the lil robot in Star Wars as it kinda fits it) is sorta behaving so heres hoping.
When all parts are done they go together like this:
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/5722466c3ede4_Hs2MTECover4p.thumb.jpg.0ecc4d7190db1a43fb1a5ab7ad50ce84.jpg)
The Controller bolts to the cover and the whole cover only needs 2 bolts to hold it firmly to the MTE plate in one piece.
DD
Hi guys,
3DPO is really giving me a hard time but I dont give up so I think its 3DPO 18 DD 3 so far lol. I am going to do another re design as I had another idea but thats for another time lol. So now I have the 2 lower cover parts(NEW) and the old(a couple of days lol) upper part to at least test. Here are the 3 parts:
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160429_191801.thumb.jpg.1e9d27aa366bac53c7619483f3b07c8e.jpg)
I am printing the 2 new upper parts in the morning. But they still all fit together nicely.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160429_191854.thumb.jpg.130a9c95fa5cbdfb18fbd690992d51dd.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160429_191943.thumb.jpg.df6627cecbb3819a2a18dfe4783badf7.jpg)
Sorry for poor quality photos, my phone can be a pain too lol. It mounts with just 2 screws and the control box mounts to the cover the same way.
Okay, so have a great weekend folks.
DD
looks nice how does the printer work ???
In what way do you mean how it works, type of printing is layer by layer thats why its hard to design parts to print in such a way. You cant print in thin air so you make a support or use support material. Its like putting icing on a cake a layer at a time to make a 3d picture lol.
DD
Looks good mate! Nice one! ;D 8)
Hawk.
Thanks Hawk. It will look a lot better when I put the 3M Carbon covering on the covers. Love the stuff.
DD
Okay, so dont blow up at me for this, but I know that some here do play other GAMES for More riders on track and such and may wonder if my systems work with them as they are written for bloody gamepads ONLY. It is no problem but the deadzone Pilestone write into their code SUCKS donkey balls!!!
Here is a vid to show how SLOPPY the physics are in MotoGP15 compared to GPB.
https://www.youtube.com/v/Mkms_fXzR_0
After weeks of only GPB it felt so bad to ride in MotoGP15. I really need a while to get used to it again.
GPBIKES RULES!!!!
DD
WOOHOO!!! It works
3DPO finally after much beeping and screeching(literally) she spat out the last 2 cover parts 100% perfect!!!
Mounted before I try to do the Carbon cover, the system looks far cleaner and finished off.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160430_134805.thumb.jpg.690644f71200a82ae13ca9d5b44f7c83.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160430_134832.thumb.jpg.5a83aefce265bd9cde09f066c46d2fe6.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160430_134957.thumb.jpg.667fb80610b1ab74dd5b453285f165a9.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160430_135028.thumb.jpg.07e5b4932938fadbec12e85c90d7007a.jpg)
Considering I only had the idea for mounting the control box and making a full cover a week ago it's turned out well. Not bad when you consider I went from idea, to concept to a finished product with 4 re-designs in between in only a week!!!, thats pretty good going. Even if I used a company to do it for me with all my mistakes and stress it would have taken them a month just to get the first 2 wrong designs to me!!!
3D printing rules lol. It also reduces prince by literally hundreds of Pounds/Dollars and woteva!!!
This one has a gap between the plate face(which will disappear) because it is an adapted Hs1 base. I cant afford to throw away a perfectly usable part just because of a few mm in design!!!
Either way, this is starting to look like a real system at last.
DD
nice job 8)
Well done mate! Looks good!
Thanks guys, but does it look professional enough for sales? Any input welcome. I am so close to absolute final version with covers. Uncovered version already done.
DD
Yeh I reckon but lets wait for the final verdict when you are done! Then we can be at it - judging like a wolf pack at a lambs liver, or dragons in a den. :D
LOL Nick. I look forward to it. Iwish some of you UK guys could come over and try it too.
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 30, 2016, 01:53:01 PM
Thanks guys, but does it look professional enough for sales? Any input welcome. I am so close to absolute final version with covers. Uncovered version already done.
DD
I think it looks very professional! especially if you decide to put the carbon look cover on it and with your IAS logo it will look great! i want one at least!
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 30, 2016, 02:05:10 PM
LOL Nick. I look forward to it. Iwish some of you UK guys could come over and try it too.
DD
Too far. Which country is Londony in anyway? If I have to cross the Tamar River that's a foreign excursion yak ::).
Lol Nick, not sure what country it is now Ubackairanistan or some thing like that I think.
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 30, 2016, 03:26:55 PM
Lol Nick, not sure what country it is now Ubackairanistan or some thing like that I think.
DD
You are pretty damn close mate! Try something a bit more up north lol!
Ah you must be in Pakindianatstan.
DD
Last update for the day.
Made some ABS glue from acetone and ABS filament to join the 4 parts into 2 half and then sanded them for the 3M carbon covering. Also added the actual cover for the control board.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160430_211551.thumb.jpg.652a363680aa90f6b64d14ef25e4a0df.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160430_211622.thumb.jpg.0afdd5c9f487189b2d6844efa3b97610.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_04/20160430_212003.thumb.jpg.ab731f58a1b0c1930345d90f52bf2299.jpg)
My Samsung did not like the carbons reflection much so the pics were hard to get. I will make sure when the system is fully finished I sort out something for better photos and a video.
DD
I'm moving to a bigger house in roughly 10 months, you still have time ddcc ;D
What you mean Max? You need help moving mate, no problem.
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on April 30, 2016, 09:35:30 PM
What you mean Max? You need help moving mate, no problem.
I mean that once in the bigger house I may have some sort of man cave where I could put one of your systems :)
Unless the loan drains all my blood.
the system dont take that much space lol
You need a full sit on system for a man cave bro.
DD
Hi again folks.
Sorry its been a few days since the last update but I decided it is best to let the paint harden properly before I get my grubby fingers all over the parts.
So, I cant afford to wait another 2 weeks until I can get more paint so the parts are not as well coated as I wish but they look fine.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_05/20160510_135457.thumb.jpg.a64cd1f62ebc2fed49958a0efb92e618.jpg)
I went with satin black as I find it has a better contrast to the other parts than gloss black. I am going to do my own in Ferrari Red just to see how it looks, yep I still need to build my own system as priority has gone to other systems. I am now assembling the system as you read this and hope to do a test tonight along with a Live Stream test for GP Bikes on my YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/IASystemsComputerControls (https://www.youtube.com/c/IASystemsComputerControls)
I made a few new parts to aid setup of the clutch and rear brake potentiometers to work in Milestone games as they are stupidly programed for gamepads. Now they can be fully used with no problems if setup correctly with the simple turn of a screwdriver.
Next update soon...................
DD
Sweet DD! Lookin good!
And looking forward to the stream. Don't forget to tell us the time and have a chat window open so we can tell you how its going!
Thanks bro.
I really need a few guys riding around as it is going to be hard for me as I am learning to ride and stream lol. Im bad enough JUST riding or JUST streaming lol
DD
Looks great mate!!
and as Nick say, remember to give us time, place and a way to chat with you :)
And if you need test bunnies just tell us, i am sure we are some people supporting you and getting online for a test
I had a test up earlier but it did not show on the GPB server webpage? I did on before and it showed?
DD
Nice job DD... Looks great! ;D 8)
Live Stream: So what's this Live Stream Test?? What time, track, bike, server?
I'll be willing to ride on your live stream for sure mate if you can give the above dets. ;) 8)
You really needs an event promo forum thread all of it's own in my opinion for these live stream test arrangements DD so that as many riders as possible will know what's happening. ;)
Hawk.
Thanks guys. I am just building a system so that comes first.
So.............If I just go into GPB, start hosting will it be seen by others in their GPB World list?
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on May 10, 2016, 04:53:15 PM
Thanks guys. I am just building a system so that comes first.
So.............If I just go into GPB, start hosting will it be seen by others in their GPB World list?
DD
Yeah, it should :)
Okay I will let you know when I start hosting. I need to test to see how it runs with more bikes and streaming as I do only have a laptop lol.
DD
OH COCK!!!!..................................
Some fucker hacked my twitter account and ISR forum is cocked up!!! Great night lol.
SO....................................
Not much to say except I rebuilt the handlebar system. Should get the new USB 0.5m cable to make the cables between the bars and the frame cleaner in the morning but otherwise the bars are finished!!!! WOOFUCKINHOO!!!
Here are some pics with new hardware and all covers done. Oh and the emblems are only held on by bluetack as I am going to give them one last coat of paint before I pack it to make sure they are all pwetty and glue them on.
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/ISR%20Hs2a.jpg)
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/ISR%20Hs2b.jpg)
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/ISR%20Hs2c.jpg)
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/ISR%20Hs2d.jpg)
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/ISR%20Hs2e.jpg)
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/ISR%20Hs2f.jpg)
Sorry if the pics are too small ;D Not in the mood for editing shit after tonight's fun and games.
DD
Looking good DD ;) if you find a way to change/design the handlebar mounts so that race clip-on's can be added (at a realistic angle and width) i will buy one!
or basicly.. instead of 1 bar going through.. have some seperation so the bars could be adjusted to suit anybodies bike riding style ;)
Looks a really nice clean design there DD. Well done mate.
Or maybe i buy one off you anyway.. and just add something like this myself? (to save pissing people off ::))
fully adjustable/changeable
http://cdn3.volusion.com/jnuhm.vmpuk/v/vspfiles/photos/O-JOTA-2.jpg?1415020072
Quote from: BOBR6 84 on May 10, 2016, 09:25:01 PM
Or maybe i buy one off you anyway.. and just add something like this myself? (to save pissing people off ::))
fully adjustable/changeable
http://cdn3.volusion.com/jnuhm.vmpuk/v/vspfiles/photos/O-JOTA-2.jpg?1415020072
I'm sure I asked DD if he could do a racing drop bars version a while back and I'm sure he said he could create what I needed Bob, but I'm sure DD will confirm that or not. ;)
Hawk.
Looks very good DD!!!! You tease us a lot! we want those handlebars more and more mate!!
Thanks guys.
Yes I can make a set with clip-on type bars but they must be 22mm bars. I do have plans for this type but it is coat more than anything that stops me for now. I want to have the whole top yolk and bars, clocks of some kind(working eventually) and maybe a bikini fairing or something to cover the desktop frame. Lots to do, no money to do it lol, thats all that is stopping me.
I have full hydraulic sets for front brake, clutch and rear brake(gixxer) to play with too. Hosing and banjos are just not cheap lol. AND you can NOT ship brake fluid worldwide so I am testing fluids hehe.
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on May 10, 2016, 09:46:10 PM
I have full hydraulic sets for front brake, clutch and rear brake(gixxer) to play with too. Hosing and banjos are just not cheap lol. AND you can NOT ship brake fluid worldwide so I am testing fluids hehe.
Ship it with no fluid, people will fill it like on a real bike :)
NO way Max. It would mean I could not guarantee the system works to start with and them many who buy the system wont necessarily know dick about brake systems. That is a big no way bro.
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on May 10, 2016, 09:53:53 PM
NO way Max. It would mean I could not guarantee the system works to start with and them many who buy the system wont necessarily know dick about brake systems. That is a big no way bro.
You fill it, you test it, you purge it, you ship it. Job done.
That said, I really don't think we need to go as far as hydraulic: higher cost, higher mess, moderate gain. But I'll let you experiment and report back :)
Quote from: doubledragoncc on May 10, 2016, 09:46:10 PM
Yes I can make a set with clip-on type bars but they must be 22mm bars.
I use Vortex clip-ons.. All the bars are 22mm. only the clamp changes size for different bikes/forks so im guessing most actual bars must be the same or similar size?
I could not even ship fluid with the system that is the whole point. Certain countries do not allow it to be imported, certain airline wont ship it. It is a big problem for a small guy like me. It is only for much later anyways.
I need to talk to the car pedal guys about it anyways they know what to do.
I actually think it would be only a small advantage over the cost as you said,, but it would look the dogs bollocks hehe.
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on May 10, 2016, 10:02:10 PM
I could not even ship fluid with the system that is the whole point. Certain countries do not allow it to be imported, certain airline wont ship it. It is a big problem for a small guy like me. It is only for much later anyways.
Just don't ship the fluid. The customer will buy a can at his own place and fill the circuit like a pro !
Quote from: BOBR6 84 on May 10, 2016, 10:00:32 PM
Quote from: doubledragoncc on May 10, 2016, 09:46:10 PM
Yes I can make a set with clip-on type bars but they must be 22mm bars.
I use Vortex clip-ons.. All the bars are 22mm. only the clamp changes size for different bikes/forks so im guessing most actual bars must be the same or similar size?
Yes, its only Harley that uses Inch bars really. But I have to state it to make sure lol.
It would add a lot of weight to the system though and shipping size too. But for those who want it I think they understand that.
I think it would look real cool too.
I am waiting for one of my old friends from the USA to ask for a set with Ape Hangers in inch for a Harley lol. Might make a set just for fun one day then use them in GTAV hehe
DD
Max seriously, that is not how you sell a product. If a customer has to do this and do that it is bollocks. Either I ship complete or I dont ship it. Besides, I will only use DOT5 as it wont strip off the paint or damage a carpet(has to be thought about) and not everyone can get DOT5. DOT3/4 would melt the seals.
My name is on this and anything, even if it is not my fault that makes a system not work will be very bad for me.
It is just one thing I will never do. Thanks for trying to help though.
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on May 10, 2016, 10:09:41 PM
Max seriously, that is not how you sell a product. If a customer has to do this and do that it is bollocks. Either I ship complete or I dont ship it.
Given it's going to be shipped most likely by air mail, I know I'd much prefer it to be empty, even if there was a way to ship it filled. You never know ... imagine it leaks while packaged ...
Filling a brake circuit is not rocket science: at worst one could bring the device to his bike garage and the mechanic will do it :)
Anyway, a customer that can understand and appreciate the difference between an hydraulic circuit and a classical spring one is probably smart enough to fill the circuit on his own (given proper instructions).
Quote from: doubledragoncc on May 10, 2016, 10:06:42 PM
Quote from: BOBR6 84 on May 10, 2016, 10:00:32 PM
Quote from: doubledragoncc on May 10, 2016, 09:46:10 PM
Yes I can make a set with clip-on type bars but they must be 22mm bars.
I use Vortex clip-ons.. All the bars are 22mm. only the clamp changes size for different bikes/forks so im guessing most actual bars must be the same or similar size?
It would add a lot of weight to the system though and shipping size too. But for those who want it I think they understand that.
Why would it add weight?
You have the weight of the top yolk and part of the fork tubes the clip-ons are mounted too as I meant if it was the real deal lol.
OR do you mean with just a set of bars like these:
(http://cdn3.volusion.com/jnuhm.vmpuk/v/vspfiles/photos/O-JOTA-2.jpg?1415020072)
which would NOT add more weight. They are a cool compromise. Know where I can get some CHEAP lol.
DD
Yeah man something like that.. Either way, making things adjustable would be cool for personal comfort with the system ;)
Im interested anyway DD 8)
I will look and see what I can get.
DD
Thanks Guimengo.
Known Darin for 6+ years lol. I have plenty of test videos with it on my YouTube channel.
https://www.youtube.com/c/IASystemsComputerControls (https://www.youtube.com/c/IASystemsComputerControls)
DD
Hi guys, sorry for the delay in this update but I have been busy sorting out about hosting a dedicated server for GPBikes races for the GPBOC club. I am also starting a regular Live streaming of races and more.
So................ I finally got the foot controls together and have done a quick test of the new springs and the brake adjuster for Milestone games. Here are a few pics.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_05/20160515_122321.thumb.jpg.9169c36ee9796c5d0c5737b99626a903.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_05/20160515_122404.thumb.jpg.62a7b1343b150e4e87a4542121fd4c97.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_05/20160515_122433.thumb.jpg.70f6880b9de9ff997022209b2723e117.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_05/20160515_122533.thumb.jpg.bec1b6dd1f9bf613bb3be18ee3eeffff.jpg)
I am very happy how the adjuster hole in the rear brake cover allows to adjust the potentiometer to get the rear brake working without problems in MotoGP etc as is the clutch lever now.
Just finished the new wiring loom from the handlebars to the main frame too.
DD
Looks very nice and professional! Can i come test it? P ::) :P ;D
CDX had a go on it yesterday and okayed it but the more testers the better. ANYONE is welcome to come over anytime.
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on May 16, 2016, 10:49:46 AM
CDX had a go on it yesterday and okayed it but the more testers the better. ANYONE is welcome to come over anytime.
DD
Little far from Denmark, but if i one day is in UK anyway, i will for sure consider swining by ;)
Amazing job :o
I love its look 8)
Thanks guys.
I am tempted to see what it looks like on mine with Ducati Red framework???
One guys from USA wants blue so could be interesting.
DD
Love the foot-pedals DD... Superb job there mate! ;D 8)
Hawk.
If it was not about cost I would use real rear sets and other parts. :-[
I just want to make it work first then worry about looks. If some one wants rear sets, no problem, it just a matter of dosh
DD
Silly question ddcc: do you sell the pedals only (with no handlebars) ?
Yes I will Max but they are more work than they look and not cheap 25 quid toys lol.
If you know what you are doing you can wire them into a gamepad to use. Naturally it depends too if you want a USB controller just for them, the Bodnar BU0836NC is 20 quid and a few quid for USB header and other headers or just solder direct to the board.
DD
Money is not the real concern here (not at that scale at least) :)
I was just thinking maybe people will be more willing to invest in pedals first (to be used with a joypad) and then buy the bars too, after.
Don't even mention weird setups, just sell the pedals with their own controller, much easier and better.
If it was possible to connect the bars to the same controller as the pedals (which I think is the case) all the better, but it's not really necessary: the kind of people that will buy your system won't faint for 20-30 extra quid.
I would rather sell the bars first then a set of pedals, they are nothing without my bars really
The problem is that the controller is sold with the bars and to make it that you ADD the bars to the foot controls box will cause me to have to make a special wiring loom from the bars which will not happen as the controller is permanently soldered to the BU board as it is too many wires to just have a plug for.
I am thinking of actually offering a modified wire gamepad WITH pedals that disconnect from the gamepad and can be used with my bars with no modification.
Basically I think I could also make my systems work on a console by using the boards from a pad too.
I will really do anything lol.
DD
I have to agree with Max here DD...... You could easily sell the pedals separately so people can use them with their current controller.... You gotta think about all the business opportunities and outlets this brings. ;) 8)
This is what I was thinking of doing as an initial purchase as it's the pedals that would currently be of greater use to me without having to shell-out for the whole lot at once, then I'd definitely go for the bars later to complete the bike controller properly. ;D
It's just a thought. ;) 8)
Hawk.
Don't forget to make the first 100/1000 Limited Edition 8)
Quote from: Napalm Nick on May 16, 2016, 09:28:08 PM
Don't forget to make the first 100/1000 Limited Edition 8)
Or a special GPB limited edition/GPBOC Limited edition for your mates here :P
Guys I was trying to say, instead of buying a set of pedals with a BU box which is 20 quid, I could modify a gamepad with them so you had your gamepad with pedals connected to the gamepad I have done it to my old one and worked great. The pedals would just unplug from the game pad to plug into my bars if you got some. It is a bit of work to get right as you lose HALF n axis on the right or left thumbstick or whichever axis you use for rear brake.
I was playing on the idea of making a gamepad myself with a throttle and levers using my p260 pots as they are small, just an idea I had.
DD
I am here to help and whatever you guys want I am willing to try and do it.
Quote from: doubledragoncc on May 16, 2016, 09:42:04 PM
Guys I was trying to say, instead of buying a set of pedals with a BU box which is 20 quid, I could modify a gamepad with them so you had your gamepad with pedals connected to the gamepad I have done it to my old one and worked great. The pedals would just unplug from the game pad to plug into my bars if you got some. It is a bit of work to get right as you lose HALF n axis on the right or left thumbstick or whichever axis you use for rear brake.
20 quid is not biggie if it make the pedals more usable. I'd take pedals with their own controller (i.e. pluggable in any usb port) over pedals wired to a joypad any day.
But if you want to start selling, you'll have to put prices out somewhere, so people could make the calls, instead of yu trying to save a few quid on something many will not even bother to consider.
The pedals look very nice (only "weak" point I see is I can't judge how sturdy the "plastic" of the pedals is): put a price on them (with/without the BU box eventually, even if I'd expect people to be willing to get them with) and post it here to get the thing started.
P.S.
You could make a "controller box" to which one could plug the pedals (alone) the bars (alone) or both.
The box could be put on the pedals frame (velcro or whatever) or on the bars frame/dash.
This way, people can buy-in progressively.
Quote from: HornetMaX on May 16, 2016, 10:40:49 PM
Quote from: doubledragoncc on May 16, 2016, 09:42:04 PM
Guys I was trying to say, instead of buying a set of pedals with a BU box which is 20 quid, I could modify a gamepad with them so you had your gamepad with pedals connected to the gamepad I have done it to my old one and worked great. The pedals would just unplug from the game pad to plug into my bars if you got some. It is a bit of work to get right as you lose HALF n axis on the right or left thumbstick or whichever axis you use for rear brake.
20 quid is not biggie if it make the pedals more usable. I'd take pedals with their own controller (i.e. pluggable in any usb port) over pedals wired to a joypad any day.
But if you want to start selling, you'll have to put prices out somewhere, so people could make the calls, instead of yu trying to save a few quid on something many will not even bother to consider.
The pedals look very nice (only "weak" point I see is I can't judge how sturdy the "plastic" of the pedals is): put a price on them (with/without the BU box eventually, even if I'd expect people to be willing to get them with) and post it here to get the thing started.
P.S.
You could make a "controller box" to which one could plug the pedals (alone) the bars (alone) or both.
The box could be put on the pedals frame (velcro or whatever) or on the bars frame/dash.
This way, people can buy-in progressively.
+1 Max. My thoughts exactly. ;)
Hawk.
Max, the bars can NOT be just plugged into a box they are HARDWIRED, soldered to the box. I am not going to redesign the whole handlebars point of being totally self sufficient electronically just to sell pedals on there own. It was a lot of work to get it so compact and not need a shit load of cables running from the bars to a control box. I am not going to go backwards lol.
So.............I will offer just pedals with the lowest price controller in an enclosure. I will sit down and see how much I can do them for, for GPBOC members. Regular price is £125.00 for just the foot controls.
In a year I have not broken one lever. They are not weak but you cant stomp on them, and if you do you should not ride a bike. In real life you FEEL your controls, you dont stomp on them all the time. I admit they are really made to use in socks. I can make them reinforced with an ali backing if need be but it is more work more cost just because you cant learn how to use a control properly.
Try bending a honeycomb structure as that is the infill I use. They are not just a solid bit of plastic, the design is technically strong. Ask CDX he has used all my stuff and seen how strong the ABS is. I can wack the stuff with a hammer and it dont break easy at all. Remember the original GT40 chassis? I use the same design for strength in my parts.
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on May 16, 2016, 11:05:41 PM
Max, the bars can NOT be just plugged into a box they are HARDWIRED, soldered to the box. I am not going to redesign the whole handlebars point of being totally self sufficient electronically just to sell pedals on there own. It was a lot of work to get it so compact and not need a shit load of cables running from the bars to a control box. I am not going to go backwards lol.
I will not push you, but if it was possible, it would be a moderate plus.
The "box" I'm talking about could contain (essentially) just Leo's BU: all the rest of the electronics could sit where it is right now.
I do appreciate it requires a bit of redesign though, so, as far as you can sell the pedals stand-alone (with their own BU), you'll be fine.
Quote from: doubledragoncc on May 16, 2016, 11:05:41 PM
So.............I will offer just pedals with the lowest price controller in an enclosure. I will sit down and see how much I can do them for, for GPBOC members. Regular price is £125.00 for just the foot controls.
Which is fine for me, if the pedals come with their own BU, so that people could use them with their own joypad/joystick/wheel/whatever :)
Quote from: doubledragoncc on May 16, 2016, 11:05:41 PM
In a year I have not broken one lever. They are not weak but you cant stomp on them, and if you do you should not ride a bike. In real life you FEEL your controls, you dont stomp on them all the time. I admit they are really made to use in socks. I can make them reinforced with an ali backing if need be but it is more work more cost just because you cant learn how to use a control properly.
Try bending a honeycomb structure as that is the infill I use. They are not just a solid bit of plastic, the design is technically strong. Ask CDX he has used all my stuff and seen how strong the ABS is. I can wack the stuff with a hammer and it dont break easy at all. Remember the original GT40 chassis? I use the same design for strength in my parts.
I can take your word on that, no problem. But as I don't see how the "plastic" part is "splined" to the rotating axis (that would be the breaking point), I cannot judge. Essentially, what's inside the boxes where the pedals "lever" starts from.
Everything else looks rock solid and near-pro grade !
Sorry but NO to redesigning the bars in ANY way it has taken me years to get it right.
They stay exactly as they are.
So you know. The materials and parts for the pedals with a BU box for stand alone use is £85 and it is about 6 hours work and 20 hours printing(electric and supervision) to make them. That is plug n play out the box including USB cable lol. They can then just plug into the handlebar controller plug jack for foot controls that all systems have.
So sorry but £135 plus shipping is the least I can really do them for. I know it is only £15 discount in the end but it means I earn only about £40 a unit after all costs, thats less than £9 an hour. I need to earn money to buy a new server system for GPBOC lol.
One thing I will say is that if you order a handlebar system later, you wont have to pay for another BU controller as I can use the one you have to make a complete system.
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on May 16, 2016, 11:45:16 PM
So sorry but £135 plus shipping is the least I can really do them for.
Err, I'm in no way disputing the price man. That's absolutely up to you.
Quote from: doubledragoncc on May 16, 2016, 11:45:16 PM
One thing I will say is that if you order a handlebar system later, you wont have to pay for another BU controller as I can use the one you have to make a complete system.
I'm confused now, that's exactly what I was asking for. How would this work ?
One buys the pedal, they come with the BU controller. If after one buys you the bars, how could one put both on the same BU controller ?
I would only wire up the foot controls exactly as they are if on the handlebars system. As they are unplug-able, then when you order an Hs2 bar system you would send me back the BU to be wired in completely.
DD
Just to say, the material DD uses is very strong - the 2 little boxes i received almost appear to be machined from solid rather than by additive manufacturing with no indication of porosity in the structure and has a decent level of ductility - impressive stuff.
I do think a connector between bars and foot controls is a good idea though - most people have issues with storage or may need an extension cable (seperate accessory for more £££) for a tidy set up and the ability to tuck the pedals away when not in use. I would be happy to pay a few extra quid for a connector and i think you will sell more if you can supply as 2 separate items that can be added to later without the shipping overheads.
I do like the foot controls and the price seems reasonable compared to foot controls for driving games from existing vendors. What is the bar diameter? could you slip a standard bat grip onto the tube for sock wearing comfort?
You should get some detailed videos of the mechanisms in action on you website - it would be nice to see the actuation working close up.
Hi H, The footpegs are 16mm diameter 3mm wall steel. I have found a hose manufacurer that has a tuning hose for the automotive world that would add more comfort. I just dont like a thick looking peg. IT comes in a silicone in many colors.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTAwMFgxMDAw/z/A9kAAOxyf1dTJvHN/$_57.JPG)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFgxNjAw/z/ZsUAAOSwFnFWCkmK/$_57.JPG)
This would add comfort and is long lasting I should think. Adds about £4 to the price, its not cheap and i have to by a min of £12 worth in just one color. I am looking for new end caps that work or I will make some.
The only way I will do this is that the foot controls will be stand alone with their own BU box that they can be plugged in and out of in exactly the same way as on the full Hs2 system. You dont need extension cables as the foot control cable is 1.5m long. Supplied USB cable is 5m long.
I will make a video so you can see what I mean about not wanting to ruin how clean the design is and it HAS a connector to put on and take of the foot controls whenever you want to. You dont have to have the foot controls plugged in to use the bars, but you can add them any time and then just unplug them and store them out the way.
Here is a guide of the standard connector system on the Hs2. Note the permanently wired switches. I am not going to add a great fat cable and horrible bulky connector that has to hang from the bars to the frame that costs more, adds a load more wiring work and looks terrible. Plus design a new box that has to be much bigger and will take 3 times as long to print.
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/Hs2%20Connector%20Guide.jpg)
I have made a small 0.5m loom that has the USB, Foot Control and Steering connectors in a neat braided cover that is ALL that is hanging from the bars to the frame.
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/20160517_093550.jpg)
The bulky end is mounted to the desk frame, the other end goes to the control box and all that is seen hanging is the braided part of the cable loom. You just plug your foot controls in and out at the desktop frame connector.
DD
Thanks for explaining the connections, that makes more sense now.
The tubing will be cheaper than racing slippers ;) Who would have though they even made such a thing!
(http://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/server4300/f5a63/products/38/images/149/ftssimshoes__18279.1329526491.1280.1280.jpg?c=2)
Quote from: doubledragoncc on May 17, 2016, 07:16:56 AM
I would only wire up the foot controls exactly as they are if on the handlebars system. As they are unplug-able, then when you order an Hs2 bar system you would send me back the BU to be wired in completely.
Which seems not worth it, as the price of the BU is 20 quid and one would have to pay for the shipping the BU to you, actually saving less than 20 quid.
Looks to me that if one wants the full thingy, then your design is all good. For separate parts (standalone pedals or standalone bars), just have one independent controller for each.
Slightly less practical they day one owns both (as one would have 2 usb cables), but way more flexible before.
@h106frp: people do take simracing way too seriously if you ask me :)
As I joked before but meant it.
All sales to GPBOC members, I will use the money for a new stand alone server system for the club so it can run 24/7.
I will use nearly all profits except what is needed for tooling by wear and tear.
DD
Hi guys. So finally got the main connector loom done except they sent the wrong shrink tube so waiting for the replacement to just finish off totally.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_05/20160525_100421.thumb.jpg.5c619a258eab68e95cb5c0c0e380ee04.jpg)
Better than 3 separate cables hanging there!!!
So while I wait for the final bit I will be fully testing and making sure it is setup for all games before I ship it to Darin at ISR.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_05/20160525_100934.thumb.jpg.3d4ab1fc270c10ccc57304f19c9fa884.jpg)
Dont worry all those cables are NOT for the controller lol. Just the USB cable runs from the system and naturally a cable to the foot controls. My flat is getting new windows so its all just hanging so I can move it all in the morning.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_05/20160525_101107.thumb.jpg.bf2efaddb3cc79eb397376261694a09f.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_05/20160525_101126.thumb.jpg.a75cecdf0b95d955f1ec6f4ab2e9fa39.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_05/20160525_101158.thumb.jpg.b080bed08ee554bf876445882fac546b.jpg)
Well I'm off for a cuppa and smoke. Video's to follow with more details on the system #soon.
Gonna watch you guys on the server and run some sound tests for GPB bike volumes.
DD
Dat looks neat and tidy DD great job really like it. 8)
Thanks Nick.
Thats as compact and claen as I can get it without big bucks lol.
DD
Wow! Great job DD!! Looks GREAT! ;D 8)
Hawk.
+1!
looks frikking SWEET!!! 8)
I have been waiting 2 weeks to get the right size heat tube and cable covers but they kept sending the wrong shit. Such a small thing but then it is finally 100% done and finalized............................
Until the Hs3 hehe
DD
Thanks G.
I am working on making a Dash unit to go above the bars but it will be a while before I get it right lol.
DD
FINALLY it is finished............................
After 2 weeks of pulling my hair out being sent the wrong materials, simple things like heatshrink tube and cable covering, but important to make ME happy with the end product lol. All this led to me making the Connecting Loom between the handlebars and the desktop frame. I made the thing like 10 times literally!!! I changed from simple 3 pin plugs to 6 pin din (PS2) type for looks and ease of connection, it was 4 connectors at one end and it is now only 3. The first PS2 cable did not work and caused me to rip apart my control box thinking I had made a mistake, it turned out the cable was 6 pin but only 4 pins were wired!!! WTF seriously Maplins???
So after a search followed by emails to ensure I got a cable with 6 wired pins(harder than you would imagine) I got a cable I could work with and finished the new Connection Loom and Foot Control Lead.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_06/20160611_101637.thumb.jpg.dd3e5700204e0a822be284688b2b134c.jpg)
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_06/20160611_101724.thumb.jpg.0a4696c5409e624693ebdb67e481c92c.jpg)
I also used a nice new cable cover on the connection join at the Foot Controls crossbar.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_06/20160611_101749.thumb.jpg.12bc73635562dfecbcd6c40ff6451492.jpg)
The new Connection Loom is far cleaner and better in its function.
(http://www.isrtv.com/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_06/20160611_104554.thumb.jpg.83eacc58250a5e3049ff0616774bbe70.jpg)
So now its onto full testing and then packing it up for shipping. It will have a slight delay as A: I need to save up the £90 for shipping to USA and B: I dont have a system myself as I tore mine apart for testing new design parts to make this one lol. So I have to rush building mine this week.
Test videos to follow soon.
DD
Good job mate. Well done. 8)
Yep Darin is cheap and I am not so happy about how he is not really even replying on the forum, but thats D for ya lol.
My system changes Milestone games into something better thank god lol. It works with any game even GTAV and The Crew lol. Oh except MXGP2 but it might be my dodgy copy of it ::)
All I can say is he better keep his word and do at least the full hour review he said he would. Gonna make sure he plugs GPB beta 8 big time and will make a few special paints for him and John to ride that will advertise GPB modding too.
DD
G, I have know Darin AND Sean for years from when I lived in USA so it is not a legal thing bro, this is for the sake of sim racing.
Darin rides, or at least rode in real life lol and it is something I promised him.
My comment about he better do what he said was more jesting than threatening bro.
As for Sean, well he is less competent at doing a review than Darin and there is just something about his attitude that bugs me, plus he has already tried to take credit for my SPSS design in a show and that darn right pissed me off!!!
This is a personal thing as much as it is business. So this system is heading West lol. Lucky system hehe
DD
JUst found these on ebay and wondered what you guys think? They are fully adjustable for all angles.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/ODAwWDgwMA==/z/RKAAAOSwkZhWS134/$_57.JPG)
(http://teammadetrade.com/ebay/Maxpull/0MS/70012804-03.jpg)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/22mm-Stunt-Rider-Adjustable-Low-High-Rise-Handle-Bar-7-8-Motorcycle-Scooter-ATV-/121829456018?hash=item1c5d99f892:g:hwIAAOSwwPhWlwEg (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/22mm-Stunt-Rider-Adjustable-Low-High-Rise-Handle-Bar-7-8-Motorcycle-Scooter-ATV-/121829456018?hash=item1c5d99f892:g:hwIAAOSwwPhWlwEg)
I would need to get hold of a set to see how they could be set up but its interesting and price may be good as other bars are around £100
Bit ugly but an interesting concept for a controller.
DD
At 28GBP vs 100GBP, it's a no brainer.
How about no.... :P ;D
I dont like them and I do for adaptability for personal fit BUT Ugly as fuck...................or cool as fuck???
DD
So Matty is interested in a system and asked about additional buttons so I looked at what I got in new buttons and had these 16mm buttons that are easy to stab at when not right at the end of the bars by the grips.
I designed a set of 2 housings that come as a pair and hold 4 buttons each. They can be mounted directly to the bars in either direction and either between the handlebar risers or outside of them.
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/SwitchgearDual.jpg)
Just finished designing them and need to make the stl files and print the buggers in the morning.
DD
Look smart DD, when i did something similar i ended up tapping the threads for the buttons as its almost impossible to tighten the back nuts inside a deep housing. It's a silly fine thread but i found a cheap tap on ebay for a few quid that was OK for aluminium.
Thanks H. Any news on the 916 A4?
I kept that in mind and it wont be a problem with these. This was the first design so it will change at least 5 times lol.
DD
Totally side tracked onto the 955 but most of the work can be transferred across easily and i want to make the paints universal between models - cunning plan :)
Quite a bit of model, shader and texture tweaking but the big addition will be tyre dirt textures which were absent before.
Wasted some time with sounds but got nowhere useful, quite impressed with the REV software but it would be expensive for PB to implement fully :(
Quote from: h106frp on June 21, 2016, 08:42:29 PM
Wasted some time with sounds but got nowhere useful,
I feel your pain m8, i still trying too ;)
Quote from: h106frp on June 21, 2016, 08:42:29 PM
quite impressed with the REV software but it would be expensive for PB to implement fully :(
Yes, i had a look at it quite some time ago, the nice thing about it is you only need a dyno run from low to high rpm, not steady steps, plenty on youtube.
Quote from: Warlock on June 21, 2016, 09:16:58 PM
Yes, i had a look at it quite some time ago, the nice thing about it is you only need a dyno run from low to high rpm, not steady steps, plenty on youtube.
Samples from youtube ?! :o I'd be surprised if you can get anything decent out of that.
Quote from: h106frp on June 21, 2016, 08:42:29 PM
Totally side tracked onto the 955 but most of the work can be transferred across easily and i want to make the paints universal between models - cunning plan :)
I found that I only needed to do the main fairing to use the A3 paint on an A1 as I had done it for the Ace Cafe bike but prefer the A1 to ride.
Thanks for the update
DD
Quote from: HornetMaX on June 21, 2016, 09:50:06 PM
Quote from: Warlock on June 21, 2016, 09:16:58 PM
Yes, i had a look at it quite some time ago, the nice thing about it is you only need a dyno run from low to high rpm, not steady steps, plenty on youtube.
Samples from youtube ?! :o I'd be surprised if you can get anything decent out of that.
If decent is something better than what we have now , i would say yes :)
Can't be compared with properly recording, obviously
From 0:40 could be usable
https://www.youtube.com/v/zSr_mb5US0g
1:30
https://www.youtube.com/v/HM3cNxYU4Pg
If you can get something mildly usable form these two, you're a wizard :)
I've listened to them at the office (laptop + a "headset" probably not worth the price of the plastic bag it came with), and to me they are both bad quality, even before you start working on them (which implies re-convert them to analog and resample).
Wasn't grimm about to record some sound from a dyno run ?
Bloody Topic Pirates!!!! LOL
Just as well I am junki for this shit lol. It will be sooooo cool when we get great sounds in GPB.
I find that the sound, although not quite right for the bike, from Blacky for the NR750 is the most adrenaline jackin sound yet. For inline 4's it is brilliant.
I hate having to use headphones to play or I have to kill and bury the guy downstairs first. I need the bike sound to speak to me when I ride, Thats half the feeling you can actually have in a bike sim so it is soooo important.
Keep up the good work guys and dont go cutting your ears of like paint artists do, it wont help lol.
DD
Looks great with the extra buttons! Looks like what many M3 bikes is using for adjusting the electronics, they have same layout with 4 buttons on, TC+, TC-, eng. Map, and Whatever is needed on the last one, can be LAunch control in some cases or wheelie control etc. :)
Well as long as matty likes them thats all that counts. Might be doing a few different versions with more buttons that are same size and smaller.
Matty can have up to 32 digital buttons and a POV hat too
DD
You didn't tell us it came with a free Hat. 8)
Quote from: Napalm Nick on June 22, 2016, 10:09:01 AM
You didn't tell us it came with a free Hat. 8)
ROLF!! ;D ;D
Hawk.
Funny Fucker lol
Dont even start with free helmet jokes okay.......................
Jokes aside In x360ce I program the right buttons on the bars for the POV HAT.
DD
Quote from: HornetMaX on June 22, 2016, 06:35:06 AM
If you can get something mildly usable form these two, you're a wizard :)
....even before you start working on them
Wasn't grimm about to record some sound from a dyno run ?
I've worked with worse ones to do the ones i did (far from being what i wanted them to be, for sure)
Im not going to work with them, we would need REV to use those. I would like though.
I hope grimm can record somethig we can play with.
Sorry for th OT DD
NP Warlock I do it all the time lol.
Its a way of life as much goes hand in hand and I actually started it by asking H about the 916 in one of my replies lol.
Maybe I need to have a wind and sound system connected to gas and gearshift lol and brakes hehe
DD
Someone has always got there first ;)
https://virtualrealityreporter.com/virwind-airflow-wind-simulator-virtual-reality-gaming-experience/ (https://virtualrealityreporter.com/virwind-airflow-wind-simulator-virtual-reality-gaming-experience/)
Yes and CXC has a system too but I dont like them.
Well the guys from the Technical University of Malaysia in Salangor sent me a quick update of their motion sim rig which is to be used to study motorcycle behavior. It is a Work In Process and they are bad at making videos for more than a short time lol.
https://www.youtube.com/v/_M_0Y10dOAo
I will have to send some instructions to them about some adjustments they need and hopefully it will be a wee bit quicker lol.
This is the old Hs1 system btw.
DD
Quote from: h106frp on June 22, 2016, 04:11:32 PM
Someone has always got there first ;)
https://virtualrealityreporter.com/virwind-airflow-wind-simulator-virtual-reality-gaming-experience/ (https://virtualrealityreporter.com/virwind-airflow-wind-simulator-virtual-reality-gaming-experience/)
Excellent for air guitar competitions ? :)
Its just another way to take money for a gimmick really. I am in the wrong business lol
Talking of which, I am having fun with ordering Matty's parts and planning how to make it a wee bit different for him.
The mad scientist DD von Frankenstein is in his element hahahahaha
DD
Great big spring under the seat for highside simulation? ;D ;)
Matty is just getting a base system so no seat but I will keep it in mind for you lol
DD
Quote from: h106frp on June 23, 2016, 11:41:08 AM
Great big spring under the seat for highside simulation? ;D ;)
lol ;D
OH FUCK!!!!
Now I am in a quandary!!!
Not had any response to my posts from Darin at ISR for a while and it leaves me feeling kinda pissed off having spent my money which I have bugger all of and a heck of a lot of time building a system to send and be reviewed at ISR only to hear in last nights show that Darin will no longer do hardware reviews as he works for some hardware company!!!!
SO now what do I do??? Seriously guys what do you think? I mean I send him a system and then it just sits there doing dick all!!!
I know I will be made a real ass off if I dont send it but WTF!!! I really cant afford to give a complete system to someone that A.Will not really even use it. and B. Wont even get it reviewed so what is the point of spending nearly a grand and 6 fucking months developing and building then spend 90 quid to ship it!!!
I REALLY could do with some input guys. Thanks to anyone for suggestions. And no I am not giving it away, sorry, wish I could but ISR was for advertising and important to me.
Now he will say "Oh well it took you so long to make and send us a FREE system unlike Logitech and TM, if you dont send it so it just sits here doing nothing I will tell everyone your back down on what you say!!!"
FUCK!!!
Sorry but it REALLY is a shit situation.
DD
Quote from: doubledragoncc on June 23, 2016, 03:37:19 PM
OH FUCK!!!!
Now I am in a quandary!!!
Not had any response to my posts from Darin at ISR for a while and it leaves me feeling kinda pissed off having spent my money which I have bugger all of and a heck of a lot of time building a system to send and be reviewed at ISR only to hear in last nights show that Darin will no longer do hardware reviews as he works for some hardware company!!!!
SO now what do I do??? Seriously guys what do you think? I mean I send him a system and then it just sits there doing dick all!!!
I know I will be made a real ass off if I dont send it but WTF!!! I really cant afford to give a complete system to someone that A.Will not really even use it. and B. Wont even get it reviewed so what is the point of spending nearly a grand and 6 fucking months developing and building then spend 90 quid to ship it!!!
I REALLY could do with some input guys. Thanks to anyone for suggestions. And no I am not giving it away, sorry, wish I could but ISR was for advertising and important to me.
Now he will say "Oh well it took you so long to make and send us a FREE system unlike Logitech and TM, if you dont send it so it just sits here doing nothing I will tell everyone your back down on what you say!!!"
FUCK!!!
Sorry but it REALLY is a shit situation.
DD
Well, sounds like the only option now is to find someone else? I would hardly consider it sending to someone for "free" if you can find a person that could review the thing proper (and has a huge youtube channel) and can reach the masses with the review. First thing I would do is start contacting the big names on youtube until you find someone that is not only a big name with a ton of subscribers, but also does nothing but sim racing and has a large amount of motorcycle simulation related video's.
ISR has dicked you around from the start, you know that as well as I do. They hemmed and hawed about even doing a review on your product in the FIRST PLACE. Then, acted like cunts every single time a hang up happened that prevented the system from getting out the door to them. Now they are ignoring you and acting higher than everyone else because they have so many subs and so many viewers. Honestly I can't stand them, they sound like over critical douche bags over niche market stuff, and praise useless copy cat garbage games that nobody will play beyond the 6 month mark after release. I am pretty sure you could get someone skilled at both voice and editing that would give a good, honest, worth while review, and put you on the map. The internet is BIG, and ISR is small in comparison with some of the youtube gamers that have 500k hits in a matter of hours of posting a trash, boring, horribly edited video, finding one that gets the million mark in 24 hours every single time is the one to talk to. Even if they have never tried such a control device as yours, I can guarantee if they have a good wheel/shifter/pedal set, it'll define the way they view a proper motorcycle controller. Having ridden a real bike will be a plus, but I wouldn't check it off as a full on requirement. ;)
Not sending the thing to ISR is indeed an option. Even if they say something about it, all you have to do is get someone as big or bigger than ISR to rave about how amazing it is! Orders will flood in, you will find that you have to keep up with far more than pre-production standards, and the sim community will become saturated with controllers nobody has made for almost a decade. Look at the reviews of the Yamaha MS1 and the old Thrustmaster Freestyler, even in the last year alone there have been people lamenting on the fact nothing exists to replace those cheap plastic controllers. Many (such as myself) have dreamed of a proper control system since discovering motorcycle racing games. I remember the first time I used the controller I built from the parts you left, honestly, alot of my anger over the whole situation that unfolded and eventually came to a bitter close when you were still stateside, vanished with that first twist of the wrist. Alot of things began to make sense about it all and why, over everything else in this world, you put the IASystems HS series above and beyond anything else, including sleep, food, and people. lol
Another possible idea taken from the high end acoustic guitar world is to organize for your equipment to take a 'road trip' of respected testers with each tester using it for a week before forwarding it on to the next and rely on a larger volume of independent reviews and youtube posts on smaller channels or forums.
In your current position you need to build confidence in your products among the various communities and get feedback for your own development.
Fuck ISR DD!!
For Christ's sake don't send them a free system if they've made it clear that they won't be reviewing anymore hardware, no matter how many subs they still have!
I'd also send ISR an official email to say so too and make sure you keep a "CC" copy of the sent email for your records too so that if anyone tries to smear your rep over it then you have it as a record for the reason why you cannot send them a free system.
No-one in their right mind would support ISR if they started to slag you off for not sending them a free system after they officially reported that they have stopped doing anymore hardware reviews. So I really cannot see that would be their intention. ;)
I totally agree with what Grimm has been saying about finding someone else/another hardware reviewer that has plenty of subs, but FFS don't let ISR have it now for free! But do try to find a reviewer who knows about sims as well as having a large amount of subs. ;)
Hawk.
PS: H's idea above is a very interesting one and well worth investigating I would say. ;)
I don't know the 'ins and outs' of what's happened here but I wouldn't send anything to someone so unreliable to even bother contacting/replying to you!
Other options put forward here sound very good to me.
Quote from: grimm on June 23, 2016, 06:47:56 PM
Not sending the thing to ISR is indeed an option. Even if they say something about it, all you have to do is get someone as big or bigger than ISR to rave about how amazing it is! Orders will flood in, you will find that you have to keep up with far more than pre-production standards, and the sim community will become saturated with controllers nobody has made for almost a decade. Look at the reviews of the Yamaha MS1 and the old Thrustmaster Freestyler, even in the last year alone there have been people lamenting on the fact nothing exists to replace those cheap plastic controllers. Many (such as myself) have dreamed of a proper control system since discovering motorcycle racing games. I remember the first time I used the controller I built from the parts you left, honestly, alot of my anger over the whole situation that unfolded and eventually came to a bitter close when you were still stateside, vanished with that first twist of the wrist. Alot of things began to make sense about it all and why, over everything else in this world, you put the IASystems HS series above and beyond anything else, including sleep, food, and people. lol
a HUGE +1 from me.... :D
C'est quoi ISR je connais pas ,?
ah ok , il y a 10 ans il m'avais solicité pour faire de la pub ,il m'avais demandé un produit de chaque gratuitement !!!!!
je ne leur avais pas donné de suite ,
merci
I think I got some of that Guimengo but could you write it in English too for me, thanks
DD
Ah okay, thanks G.
Yep its a hard decision. Darin replied after a week with:
Hi Allan,
Address is
Removed
In regards to me not doing hardware reviews, your unit would be an exception to that since it's one of a kind and not a competing product for the company I work for.
Your call though. You could send it to John if you prefer.
Darin
I dont think John has the balls to ride a bike and it might ruin his hair!!! lol. No way has he got what it takes to make a real review with my system so its a no on that.
I do though still have the dilemma of do I send it or not? I think I need to send a deep email to Darin and explain what I expect as just one quick review and then stick it in the corner will not cut it for me.
Maybe I should start my own show!!!
DD
Not sure he's very happy about his address being posted on the web. He seems to have a nice house :0)
Oh poo forgot to remove it thanks bro
DD
I just watch last nights show and think I have a far better idea as to where it would be seen and used and appreciated far more but hope it dont piss no one off. Not discussed it yet, just an idea.............we will see. It also mean possible development for console version even though that is not for GPB.
DD
Hey DD, long time!
A question: do you think I'd be able to play Driveclub Bikes on PS4 with this: http://www.gamesradar.com/how-use-xbox-one-controller-ps4/ (http://www.gamesradar.com/how-use-xbox-one-controller-ps4/)?
Gives the HS2 quick access to crazy graphics with DC Bikes and to Milestone stuffs even without a PC (PS4, XB1, XB360) :)
Although it would probably need some help/tweaks from the Cronusmax makers to adjust the steering input curve and deadzone to replace the x360ce functionality. Or get support from Milestone to be able to adjust these in-game... haha.
Hi CDX, yeah bro LONG time. Wondered if you were still here?
Give me a call about your foot controls!!!
I have looked at the cronus but think what I need to do is really try and use an original controller board and rewire it. Same for XB1 but not too worried right now as the new foot control units are my next main goal. Thanks for the link and info though but it is just to much to have to do in many ways. I want to make it so its just plug the fucking thing in and ride lol.
DD
WooHoo!!!!
Finally got my Gixxer rearsets in for the Texas Police Dept's system and my own(which I still have not built!!!) as I wont use a customers parts for the prototyping. They can use the rear master cylinder unit I have for a Gixxer too. All colour match the bars grips. Looking forward to building the full foot controller now.
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/GSXR1000RR%20Rearsets.jpg)
Wot ya think guys? Wee bit better than my crappy 3D printed ones hehe, I can call them that now.
DD
They look superb DD! ;D 8)
Hawk.
They feel great too Hawky and the toe peg is adjustable by about 20mm for shorter feet lol.
I removed the other brackets that came with it as I want to keep it as compact as possible too. And the 25cm shift arm hehe. Wee bit long.
DD
So it seems like anything to do with 3d printing is gonna give me shit right now. Waiting on my borosilicate glass and black ABS filament to carry on and finish matty's system and the latter 1.75 that I use is rarer than rockin horse shit and my supplier took me money and now dont have any for a few more days BITCH!!!!
So................I took the time to see if my plans from a while back worked and woohoo it did. Only needed to cut the original Hs2 pegs off, trim and drill the plate and hey presto they fit the original frames perfect
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/GSXR1000RR%20%20Hs2a.jpg)
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/GSXR1000RR%20%20Hs2b.jpg)
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/GSXR1000RR%20%20Hs2c.jpg)
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/GSXR1000RR%20%20Hs2d.jpg)
All I gotta do is make the new switch unit for shift(using NO switches hehe) and make a new MTE for the brake. Feel so sweet.
Costs an extra 100 but it is worth it and can ride with me boots on when done.
DD
Oh yeah! Looking SWEET, DD!! ;D 8)
Your such a TEASE mate!! Hehe! ;D ;D
Hawk.
Ello Ello
I have been testing the new ALL STEEL SPSS steering head unit before I finish Matty's and have to redo it.
The new head has adjustable steering stops that also allow the user to lessen the lean angle limit which can change the speed of lean and sensitivity. It also is far stronger for sit on systems which put more pressure on the stops.
(http://iasystems.tk/pics/hs2/Hs2%20Mk10%20SPSS%20Head.jpg)
The new head saves on 10 hours of printing too!!! It is a bit heavier for shipping but I am talking pennies lol.
DD
That's looking really good! Nice job!
I used steel and bearings for the one I built as I figured I would take your advice that overbuilt is better than anything else, I've had quite a few rather big guys (and stupid ones that don't know how much force they are applying) and the steel setup has withstood some serious abuse, many a drunken night with friends riding hard on GPB and it hasn't once given up and broken, much to my surprise. Can't wait to see how this evolves as a proper sit on system has been in my head for years now.
I will get the basic concept for a simple but effective sit on frame to you in the mornin.
Just tested the real GSXR1000RR rear brake unit and fuckin love it. Video and pics comin soon
DD