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You can use an ebike throttle if you want a ready made solution for the throttle as these use a hall effect sensor and work perfectly. They are also very cheap.

Yeah, that would absolutely work. I'm having fun making my own though, so that is plan b.

Redesigning the clutch and throttle at the moment. I now use a hall sensor inside the clutch handle instead. The wire was a pain.
I'm also trying to convert the throttle from potentiometer to hall sensor. My first 3D-printed prototype had some issues, so I'm designing v2 now..

Will be testing a brushless setup for ffb soon as well , but I'm not too confident it will work. A fun experiment though

My ffb controller is in parts again awaiting a level up.
So it has been too long since I played gpb.. Decided to go buy a gamepad so I can at least play.
I thought direct steer was excessively difficult, but this was almost worse! 😂
I can't believe how you guys can be so fast!

Having a sim rig lean works better on video than riding it I would suppose. When riding a bike you have g-forces holding you in place, so you don't really feel the bike leaning.
Leaning a rig 60 degrees would probably make most riders fall off as soon as it stands up again (if strong enough).

I would put my money on front back lean for acceleration and brakes and some kind of yaw axis, feeling the wobbles coming in and out of turns.

It is something called DirectSteer mode. It is meant to simulate driving a real motorcycle, so no steering right to turn right. Instead you have to use countersteering.
It is quite difficult, but when you get the hang of it, it is muuuuuuch more like driving a real bike. I really recommend trying. I also use Opentrack to control the rider Left/Right / Front/Back lean. It really makes the whole thing more immersive.

(Also, instead of the Bodnar you can use an Arduino Leo or Pro Micro if you want more analog or digital inputs. )

That looks awesome Poupou!

Wouldn't mind having the space and welding skills for such a rig..

HI guys,

Sorry i did not have time this week, hopefully next week I will have time to mount gear lever and finally strentghten the handlebar....I have 3 weeks to finish this rig...

I will keep you updated

for the pictures I will try to send it next week

Sooo.. How's it going?

My build is at a standstill, so it would be nice to see progress elsewhere!

How is it going? Pictures!!

I think you will get more help if you include a translated version of your message. Google translate usually works fine.

I used guitar pedal switches on my foot controls too. All bikes are a bit different in gear pedal feel and behave differently depending on up/down shift, revs, clutch and so on. But I would say this is absolutely close enough. Play can be easily adjusted too.

Excited to see the finished product and how it plays!

I have been experimenting a bit with The Arduinos and decided to rip out the internals of the Logitech wheel and try to replace them.

Bought an Arduino Pro Micro, which is pretty much a tiny Leonardo, off eBay and I already had motor driver boards.
The wheel has an optical encoder, similar to the one I already tested, so I wanted to see if I could get it working with the Arduino.
It worked like a charm, so I decided to try switching out the "motherboard".

I wanted to see how the resolution and force feedback feeling would be. It was a huge step up! Feels like the original hard/software is on power save mode, not doing much work unless it really has to. The new brain has much less of a weak center, and reacts much quicker! Plus, I can tweak the ffb effects a bit.
All this I managed to do without cutting a single wire, so it is fully restorable.



After using the Pro Micro,  replacing the little breadboard with a smaller soldered version and resoldering the capacitor and all connectors of the motor driver to the bottom of the PCB, I could even get the cover on! This is so much fun..

Now I have to reassemble the handlebar controls again, I want to try this with GPB!

very nice. can't wait to see it in action.

maybe you could use a few pulleys to step up the ratio instead of one large pulley. something like this maybe....

I know! Me neither!!
(Damn you, lack of time)

I thought about that too, and probably it is the only choice I have.
I wanted to avoid it, since it doesn't only add cost but also takes space and makes the FFB less "direct"..

Since using a BLDC or stepper motor (super expensive drivers) is out of the question, I'm going to have to use a high gear
ratio to get high torque. Even a large 350W e-bike motor is 3000rpm, and since I will only be using 50 degrees of movement, I won't have the need for that kind of speed. A 1:30 ratio on that kind of a motor would probably be fast enough and that would give me about 30Nm of stall torque :O
If I don't gear it I think I'm just going to burn motors.

VOILA!!

Ran the encoder through my new 5€ Arduino oscilloscope and saw that the signals made much more sense when running the board on 3,3V instead of 5V.


So now it seems like I have almost all the components I need in order to build a working prototype!
All I need now is some connection from the motor to the steering axle.
I'm thinking belt drive, but with the ratio I want (something like 1:15) it would require quite a large pulley on the steering axle..

Well, some good news is that I got my motor drivers!
Bad news, they were damaged..
Good news, I fixed them!

Bad news, I can't seem to get the encoder working on the Arduino Leonardo.. On the Uno it works perfect, but the Leo, no..
So I'm kind of stuck trying to find out what the problem might be..
The different FFB programs I have tried for the Arduino Leonardo won't recognize it either.

Probably a good thing since I need to be focusing on my studies at the moment! Hard though, when this is so much more interesting..