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The more preload makes the suspension stiffer as it puts pressure on the spring, therefore making the bike sit higher not lower. Imagine preload like putting a spacer between the fork spring and fork cap, that is basically how it is, but most forks now have a forkcap that you can turn the knob to spin a spacer up or down to increase/decrease preload.

Hi guys. Hal sensors work on Leo's boards. The only drawback is that the feeling of an electric throttle is so wrong, jut like a joystick it has no feel to it. With a real throttle with a cable and correct spring for return, it feels REAL, therefore making the action of using the throttle a natural action for the brain, it gives an automatic sence of reality. I use only new parts that I get from Broward Motorsports in Florida and they have very good prices, this makes the controls reliable and you basically cant break the damn things lol.

The most important thing in making a control that works with direct lean correctly is to remember to "look outside of the box", real world physics do not apply sitting still in a room!!! I have tried using Gyros and Accelerometers but find they are far to sensitive. For the right amount of feeling and control for steering you need to use potentiometers with gears to get the correct amount of control. Even now I still try different gearing just to see if I can get it even more realistic. Force-feedback is a no go at the moment, I have a few designs I am going to try, but you must not make the mistake of thinking along the same lines as FFB for steering wheels. When I ride with my system for anything over 30 mins, its quite a workout as I am using far more physical effort than just turning a wheel. Many look at my videos and still dont get the fact that it is actually counter-steering, I push the bars left to go right, using my southern pendulum design makes riding with direct lean a natural action, I dont have to think to lean, it just works. Until software writers have a real controller to write code for, it is hard to make a system that is like a real bike. The amount of handlebar movement in the real world is just to small that it makes the imput for bike sims far too sensitive.

I hope that put a bit more light on the subject.

HI guys, just read the thread and thought I better say one thing. Homeland security in USA just posted a warning yesterday not to use iexplore versions 6 to 11 as there has been a major hacker attack and is VERY dangerous to be using. Microsoft is working on it but XP users will get no fix!!! This may not be the problem here but I read that his iexplorer stoped working so thought it best to say. If doing a fresh install and needing to go online to get latest drivers etc DONT use iexplorer use firefox as it is far more stable and less prone to attacks.

AH, you mean as in the throttle, brake and clutch cables? I use gears on a gear carrier to the cable and the pinnion gear directly on the pot shaft

Hi Kes. I have had such a problem and found the best cure was a fresh install and  make sure you have all the latest versions of bikes and tracks. Sorry but only advise I can give but it worked for me.

Maybe we should start a thread called "GPBikes Forum Bloopers" its fun reading some of the comments lol

Tonight we had a very very nice race. The first lap is just beautiful. Only 1 crash and everyone is riding very close to each other. The next 6 laps were just epic but very difficult to concentrate. It's a .rpy file so you can check it from all views. Just paste it in your replays folder and enjoy

First 2 laps

https://www.youtube.com/v/V67825RU77s

Replay: http://we.tl/Vp7E73PP8j
Skins used: https://mega.co.nz/#!2AYj0CwS!JoY96MNHp01vtW7ckr1VHCzJso4zZqaZgjBb3mzcJLU

Hi Arvoss, Thanks for the upload but I can not get the replay to be recognized in my GPBikes beta4b Replays. I have others in the replay folder and only one is recognized??? Any ideas?

On rotary pots there are 3 wires. The center connector is the output from the pot to the control board. the outer connectors are the positive and ground inputs to the pot. You can wire them either way depending on which way you want the pot to rotate from 0 to 4096, meaning clockwise or anti-clockwise. If you wish to use a pot for the x-axis or y-axis in Windows to calibrate the pot you need to center the pot. this is best done by measuring the output from the pot with an ohmmeter and setting it to  2048. or if you use software like DIView or DXTweak2 it will show you the exact position of the pots rotor. If you need any wiring diagrams or so just ask. I will help as much as I can.

Hi guys, I used to have the same thing when I first got GPB and had to use a gamepad (Logitech Rumblepad) and the XBOX360 pad is far better, I use my own controller as you know Max but I still find that it can also depend on what bike you are riding. The Yamaha R6 is great and is a good bike to learn with Dude, so what bike are you riding or bikes that give you the problem? Also are you adjusting the controller in the settings for Linearity and smoothing etc? it helps big time. Also a bikes setup will cause problems.

I use rotary pots as I can gear them and change the ratios, linear pots are not as precise as rotary ones. I want to get into 3D printing to be able to reduse costs and also have more design freedom. Direct lean makes all the difference if you have the right controller it is easier to get a more realistic feeling too. I am working on a full motion system too but it is dang hard to do, but got some good ideas. It wont be cheap dang it lol.

haha atm its all hot glue, tesa, a honda cl 250 clutch lever, kawasaki el throttle, kid bycicle brake, thump throttle is from a rock shox lock out lever etc. etc.

all parts was from my garage i so it cost me 0€

so nothing special to see, it was just for testing if i can build a handlebar controller, now i buy some good potis and boards from leo bodnar.

here a video in bad quality
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8fJQguGZbM

I use the BU0836X from Leo and it is the best one he makes. It has 32 digital inputs, 1 4-way POV and 8 analog inputs which also take his load cell accelerator for brakes. Works best with 10K pots Vishay are the best for their price. Fungizmos have mini joysticks and board for about $8 and Opentip have buttons and switches from $1.95 better parts than Radio Shack and all online. Hope that helps. The BU0836X also has solderless connecters. Heres some links

http://www.opentip.com/index.php?cPath=25387&keywords=switches&page=2

http://store.fungizmos.com/items/295

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67&products_id=180

I use gears from RC cars at the moment but they are expensive but needed to get the right amount of steering or it can be to sensitive with Direct Lean on.

I am in love with this track, just as well lm single, no gf to get pissed off lol. Thanks it rocks even if others complain. Its the dogs bollocks!!!

Thanks Alby, back atya bro. Was in Wisconsin to help a customer with a world record on his turbo 1200 Bandit (130mph on the rear wheel on lake wisconsin} Ended up dating his mum and it went to shit lol. I have a meetin with a backer next week and hope to be able to really get into making the system with rider movement through the body movement but a lot of work. Any ideas welcome and l will try them out is they seem good.

Hi guys IMHO you have to use Direct Lean to get the right reaction. I used to use a G27 which I first used to design my steering system which acts to counter steering but at the same time is exact for the lean angle of the bike to the handlebars on my system. I use a mini joystick on the left handlebar next to the clutch lever for rider left/right lean and front/rear lean.

IASystems "Fullthrottle HS1" controller (Full race bodied sit-on version)  Only link left as my server is down, scroll down to "Un contrôleur moto pour votre PC". This is a system I am building and no mini joysticks on it yet. As you can see DOH its also with no race body kit. Setting up new server now. Thats not me on it in the grey I aint that old lol.






http://www.theracingline.fr/tag/SimRacing%20-%20Mat%C3%A9riel/5

Direct Lean = YES
Rider left/right lean = Yes, left mini joystick.

finally you came in this forum lol
welcome lol, glad to see you again

Thanks man good to be back. Been a frickin hard year.  I am working on a system that will use the body of the rider on one of my systems to control the rider in the sim, but its quite hard to keep cost down. Been working with gyros and accelerometers so hope to be testing soon. A head tracking system would be the dogs bollocks for rider control.

Hi guys IMHO you have to use Direct Lean to get the right reaction. I used to use a G27 which I first used to design my steering system which acts to counter steering but at the same time is exact for the lean angle of the bike to the handlebars on my system. I use a mini joystick on the left handlebar next to the clutch lever for rider left/right lean and front/rear lean.

IASystems "Fullthrottle HS1" controller (Full race bodied sit-on version)  Only link left as my server is down, scroll down to "Un contrôleur moto pour votre PC". This is a system I am building and no mini joysticks on it yet. As you can see DOH its also with no race body kit. Setting up new server now. Thats not me on it in the grey I aint that old lol.






http://www.theracingline.fr/tag/SimRacing%20-%20Mat%C3%A9riel/5

Direct Lean = YES
Rider left/right lean = Yes, left mini joystick.