Tracking Setting in GP Bikes?

[Napalm Nick]

Good the main problem was the drifting off centre I seem to remember reading?

[h106frp]

Nick, i followed PeterV's advice (4th post in this thread) and got it working pretty easily with the TiRmouse feature, now just figuring out how to adjust the tracking to be a bit smoother.
i'll be sure to let you know if i discover anything, meanwhile at least it does with TiR 5, so i didn't spend good money on it for nothing.
i've been reading up on EDtracker which also looks pretty promising, and i'll definitely consider that as an alternative.
will probably get my brother, who's in Glasgow, bring me some of the goodies when he comes to visit again - the postal service in my country has unfortunately gone to the dogs, not much of what i order from overseas ever arrives....
my next set of upcoming questions will concern controller settings, as i'm really struggling to come to grips with the gamepad, still doing better laps with keyboard, lol - anyway, i'll soon start a new thread for that, as there'll be enough questions to warrant its own thread, for sure 

This sounds very much like it describes my recent adventures  Many threads, but the conclusion was that some (low end) gamepads can produce unusual behavior in GPB, a quality pad transforms play quality.

The problem i found with mouse emulation (opentrack version anyway) was the lack of true absolute tracking values. A mouse device (and its driver) has no fixed origins and its down to the translation software to resolve this problem. After a bit of play time the straight ahead value would need resetting even though the tracker itself was not drifting.

The addition of support for EDTracker in B7 will help because this moves the view control to a standard joystick mode support so then tracker to joystick emulation becomes possible for TiR5 (vJoy) which is more game orientated and well supported.

Highly recommended EDTracker for GPB if you can find a way to get one complete or make one from parts available locally, works perfectly  The Frontier forums might reveal someone locally who could help source the 2 boards you need.

[CapeDoctor]

well, o got myself what i think is a pretty decent gamepad, a Logitech F310, no problems with the actual controls itself, and i can see that if i can master it i should be getting better lap results.
the problem is on my end - after being a confirmed keyboard maestro for going on 3 decades now, i simply find the whole gamepad thing not really suited to my style.
one of the key issues is that my hands are too close together, and doing one input invariably affects another.
with the keyboard, my hands are perfectly spaced apart, and my normal setup is much like the original Geoff Crammond Grand Peix games, A/Z for accelerate/front brake, S/X for rider F/B(although this, as i've noted from another thread, doesn't seem to be working correctly), and the ,. (comma,period) keys for left/right lean. Spacebar for rear brake.
this setup has served me well over the years, and some of the other sims i've played like Richard Burns Rally, rFactor, Race07 series, usually yield much better results than even my G25 wheel. most recently, another sim called Assetto Corsa, also gives me great results via keyboard.
with GPB, however, things come apart rapidly, most specifically in the braking and leaning department.
it's as if i need completely different input settings for each different bike/category.
what works quite well for one bike, is a complete balls-up with another. i guess this is part of the learning curve, and quite possibly i should be looking at multiple profiles to solve this issue.
anyhoo, testing continues.... 

[h106frp]

It sounds like we have (had) similar issues moving from the 'classic' PC keyboard setup to gamepads.

I always wondered if an 'arcade' type joystick setup would suit some people better, a proper table top box with a real 'stick' and buttons rather than hand held. Something like the old arcade Defender arrangement.

[Hawk]

well, o got myself what i think is a pretty decent gamepad, a Logitech F310, no problems with the actual controls itself, and i can see that if i can master it i should be getting better lap results.
the problem is on my end - after being a confirmed keyboard maestro for going on 3 decades now, i simply find the whole gamepad thing not really suited to my style.
one of the key issues is that my hands are too close together, and doing one input invariably affects another.
with the keyboard, my hands are perfectly spaced apart, and my normal setup is much like the original Geoff Crammond Grand Peix games, A/Z for accelerate/front brake, S/X for rider F/B(although this, as i've noted from another thread, doesn't seem to be working correctly), and the ,. (comma,period) keys for left/right lean. Spacebar for rear brake.
this setup has served me well over the years, and some of the other sims i've played like Richard Burns Rally, rFactor, Race07 series, usually yield much better results than even my G25 wheel. most recently, another sim called Assetto Corsa, also gives me great results via keyboard.
with GPB, however, things come apart rapidly, most specifically in the braking and leaning department.
it's as if i need completely different input settings for each different bike/category.
what works quite well for one bike, is a complete balls-up with another. i guess this is part of the learning curve, and quite possibly i should be looking at multiple profiles to solve this issue.
anyhoo, testing continues.... 

It's just practice, practice, and then more practice and then after about two weeks everything will start to come together(if you practice enough) and feel natural to you. 

If you have a G25 wheel then you must have foot pedals? You can use your foot pedals together with your gamepad to give what might feel to you(and myself because I do this) a more natural way to control the manual gear changing.

With keyboard inputs it's all or nothing(on or off) and you can never get the analogue progressive control that is vital to control the leaning, throttle, brakes and clutch with GPB. So forget controlling your bike in GPB with a keyboard.

Sounds like your going through the GPB Growing Pains .... But stick with it and you'll get there mate. 

Hawk.
PS: I use a Joystick set-up together with my steering wheel foot-pedals I use to change gears - left pedal to change down, right pedal to change up gears. Personally I find leaning a joystick feels very natural to me in leaning the bike(100% direct steer setting) than using a stick on a gamepad. 

[CapeDoctor]

hmm...sounds like a plan, i'll try setting up my pedals, although currently i have auto-gearing set, but i find for several bikes that it doesn't seem to work well, and i have to manually change gears, otherwise some bikes seem to just sit in a gear, and never change up until it's waaaay too late, lol....

[h106frp]

hmm...sounds like a plan, i'll try setting up my pedals, although currently i have auto-gearing set, but i find for several bikes that it doesn't seem to work well, and i have to manually change gears, otherwise some bikes seem to just sit in a gear, and never change up until it's waaaay too late, lol....

Auto gears is very hit and miss and as i found best avoided. Downshifting can be especially bad for some mod bikes causing the bad to lock up on corner entry.

+1 on direct steer, i'm up to about 70% and found that helped a lot.

[Hawk]

hmm...sounds like a plan, i'll try setting up my pedals, although currently i have auto-gearing set, but i find for several bikes that it doesn't seem to work well, and i have to manually change gears, otherwise some bikes seem to just sit in a gear, and never change up until it's waaaay too late, lol....

Auto gears is very hit and miss and as i found best avoided. Downshifting can be especially bad for some mod bikes causing the bad to lock up on corner entry.

+1 on direct steer, I'm up to about 70% and found that helped a lot.

@CapeDoctor: You can adjust your gearing ratio's in the Garage to give you better gear change patterns depending on which track your using. 

@H: Rear wheel lock-up when changing down gears is a 4 stroke characteristic due to engine braking. Adjust the engine brake setting to greatly reduce this effect if you prefer. 

Hawk.

[h106frp]

hmm...sounds like a plan, i'll try setting up my pedals, although currently i have auto-gearing set, but i find for several bikes that it doesn't seem to work well, and i have to manually change gears, otherwise some bikes seem to just sit in a gear, and never change up until it's waaaay too late, lol....

Auto gears is very hit and miss and as i found best avoided. Downshifting can be especially bad for some mod bikes causing the bad to lock up on corner entry.

+1 on direct steer, I'm up to about 70% and found that helped a lot.

@CapeDoctor: You can adjust your gearing ratio's in the Garage to give you better gear change patterns depending on which track your using. 

@H: Rear wheel lock-up when changing down gears is a 4 stroke characteristic due to engine braking. Adjust the engine brake setting to greatly reduce this effect if you prefer. 

Hawk.

Made the switch to manual gears and its now much better. Not so much the engine braking problem as the way the auto box can dump gears when you do not want it to. Rolling in to a high speed corner it seems to sense the low throttle opening and start downshifting leaving it engaging the clutch in first whilst you doing 70+ leaned over