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GPBikes custom controller on TS500RS base?

Started by MultiCOOLFRESH, May 02, 2019, 11:04:02 PM

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MultiCOOLFRESH

Quote from: Chris_Beeves on May 03, 2019, 11:04:00 AM
Quote from: MultiCOOLFRESH on May 03, 2019, 10:52:52 AMWhat do you exactly mean ??? :)

MCF

Whether you use the Leonardo, bognar, Xbox or something else, converting hydraulic brakes, load cells, wires or what ever solution you choose, to analog signals is the challenging bit. Programming the Arduino is super simple when you have a finished sketch.

Ah, yeah, I already think about how to do that. But hey, I will wait 'till poupou59890 is done with his build :)

MCF
Heeeeeey Hoooooo <br /><br />

poupou59890

Hi Guys, If I have some time this weekend I will start t make a post for my rig. But honestly it is pretty simple, furthermore with the leobodnard you don't have to code anything. for the analog I choose easy way cause I did not have 3D printer ...

For the throttle I use a 0-5V throttle from e-bike parts : http://evcomponents.com/ebike-parts/wuxing-ltx-ebike-throttle.html (not exactly this one but it's almost the same) just pay attention than you need 22mm trhottle in order to use a real handlebar)

For the clutch, front break and rear brake (not clutch at this time I am waiting to check everything else before buying a complete set for the clutch) I use cheap chinese set of hydraulic lever on Aliexpress, than transducer (500 and 1000psi) in order to traanform the pressure apply to a signal between 0-5V. Here again, just plug everythign and that's it. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Motobike-Racing-bike-lever-handle-bar-brake-pump-hydraulic-clutch-set-kit-17-5-piston-cylinder/32718100514.html

and for the pressure transducer : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-Steel-Pressure-transducer-sender-for-oil-fuel-air-water-100psi-2500psi-/172780141579

for the buttons, just use simple on/off contact or motorbike contact set and plug in directly to the leobodnard.

For the gear shift, I need to finish this one. I use real motorbike shifter from China (same set than the rear brake with master cylinder and pressure transudcer), I think I will use 2 buttons and put a screw next to each one in order to be sure that it will be the screw to stop the foot peg and not the button to avoid breaking it.

So for now I have every parts, I have use a cbr 600 rr template on Solidworks in order to draw my "chassis" with exact same dimension than a real one bike and I use direct steering with angle in order to be as real as it can. hope it will work :)

and if eveything is perfect I will try to use a 2DOF air sim balance system in order to add real lean thanks to GPbikes data ouptut. but I am no there yet. Hope it can help.

Even is the leabodnard is a bit pricey (around 60 euros) it is very easy to use, no driver, just plug eveything at the right place, put the usb and that's it.




MultiCOOLFRESH

Wow, thanks mate for the info, I will surely soon start the project :D

MCF
Heeeeeey Hoooooo <br /><br />

Chris_Beeves

Quote from: poupou59890 on May 03, 2019, 12:07:17 PMFor the clutch, front break and rear brake (not clutch at this time I am waiting to check everything else before buying a complete set for the clutch) I use cheap chinese set of hydraulic lever on Aliexpress, than transducer (500 and 1000psi) in order to traanform the pressure apply to a signal between 0-5V. Here again, just plug everythign and that's it. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Motobike-Racing-bike-lever-handle-bar-brake-pump-hydraulic-clutch-set-kit-17-5-piston-cylinder/32718100514.html

and for the pressure transducer : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-Steel-Pressure-transducer-sender-for-oil-fuel-air-water-100psi-2500psi-/172780141579

Excellent idea with the hydraulics! Quite easy to install compared to other solutions, and the feel must be perfect!

Quote from: poupou59890 on May 03, 2019, 12:07:17 PMFor the gear shift, I need to finish this one. I use real motorbike shifter from China (same set than the rear brake with master cylinder and pressure transudcer), I think I will use 2 buttons and put a screw next to each one in order to be sure that it will be the screw to stop the foot peg and not the button to avoid breaking it.

I used guitar pedal switches for my gear shifter setup. They are made for drunk bass players stomping them. Should be fine!

Quote from: poupou59890 on May 03, 2019, 12:07:17 PMSo for now I have every parts, I have use a cbr 600 rr template on Solidworks in order to draw my "chassis" with exact same dimension than a real one bike and I use direct steering with angle in order to be as real as it can. hope it will work :)

and if eveything is perfect I will try to use a 2DOF air sim balance system in order to add real lean thanks to GPbikes data ouptut. but I am no there yet. Hope it can help.

Even is the leabodnard is a bit pricey (around 60 euros) it is very easy to use, no driver, just plug eveything at the right place, put the usb and that's it.

Sounds really ambitious! Can't wait to see it take form! :D

The price difference between the Bodnar and the Leonardo is quite big yes (60 euros vs. 10 tops). And the Leo does everything that the Bodnar does (albeit "only" 10-bit). However if I had set a bigger budget I would probably go for the Bodnar anyway.. Just feels better to have a board that someone that really knows their s**t designed. ;)
I had to try..

poupou59890

Hi everyone,

As I said in an other post (DS2 users) I received the t300rs yesterday and the feeling is AWESOME !!!!! I think this is the best way to simulate real motorbike behavior for me. The feeling to sens the wobble and dribbling on the front side is awesome, it is exactly as Marcel shows in his vieo, the game react exactly 1:1 with my steer angle/wheel rotation. I can exit pit easier than the G25 (without crashing) I can do full lap without crashing. For now I did not attached yet the handlebar on it so when everything will be plug it will be very cool for sure and the best experience with bike sim  for now. I still try to design my fix sit up rig in order to be as compact as possible but with real size too ^^ so When I receive the quick release adapter I will mount it with my hanldbars and the adventure can begin :)

SO yes it is posible to have great feeling in DS2/DSA with a FFb wheel (for me it is the simplest way to have full feeling on a bike sim) and if the rig can lean as real will be awesome (but this will be for another time)

I will post pictures of the rig design and wheel/handlebars system later.

I filled the brake fluid yesterday, and the feeling is good with the breka lever but I found that the range it is not as expected, not very linear...but I will try to adpat that later when the full rig will be built.

Can't wait to see it running on VR :)

MultiCOOLFRESH

Sounds awesome, can't wait to see more :D

MCF
Heeeeeey Hoooooo <br /><br />

TimboC137


Chris_Beeves

May 10, 2019, 06:51:38 AM #22 Last Edit: May 10, 2019, 06:53:12 AM by Chris_Beeves
Quote from: poupou59890 on May 09, 2019, 06:37:31 AMand if the rig can lean as real will be awesome (but this will be for another time)
This has been discussed a whole lot, and leaning a motorcycle sim would probably not contribute to a realistic feeling. The force vector is always parallel with the bikes "y-axis" (the one going straight up through the bike) no matter how much the bike is leaning (a very small difference depending on the tire width). Tilting a sim just makes you feel like you're falling off I guess.
I would put my money on acceleration and braking(raising and lowering the front) and yaw (making the rear go from side to side). That would make a cool experience I think.

Quote from: poupou59890 on May 09, 2019, 06:37:31 AMI filled the brake fluid yesterday, and the feeling is good with the breka lever but I found that the range it is not as expected, not very linear...but I will try to adpat that later when the full rig will be built.

Can't wait to see it running on VR :)


Since there are no calipers, there is no motion for you to feel in the brake handle.. To replicate motion I would try leaving a few bubbles of air in the system while bleeding. That would give you a small "sponge" perhaps?
Edit: then the pressure sensor can't be the lowest point. The bubble would find its way out..
I had to try..

doubledragoncc

You cant have air in the system or the transducer will always register a bit of input in windows. When you calibrate the system in windows control calibration you can change how much pressure will go from off to full pressure by how hard you pull on the lever. Also works in calibration in GPB

DD
GPBOC Live Streams: https://www.youtube.com/c/IASystemsComputerControls; i7 12700K 5.1GHz Z690 ASUS Strix Z690-A Mobo 32GB 3600MHz DDR4 RAM ASUS Strix RTX3080 OC 10GB DDR6X ASUS Ryujin 360 AOI Cooler ROG Thor 1200w PSU in ROG Helios Tower Case.

Chris_Beeves

Does that not make the lever extremely stiff when there's nothing "flexing"?

Why can't you calibrate it with air in the system?
I had to try..

doubledragoncc

It is very stiff but my levers have leverage adjusters so it gives a bit of play until its all about how much pressure you apply.

A transducer needs a certain amount of pressure to calibrate its 0 volt point, if that is not reach due to air then the transducer send a fluctuating voltage signal to windows.

DD
GPBOC Live Streams: https://www.youtube.com/c/IASystemsComputerControls; i7 12700K 5.1GHz Z690 ASUS Strix Z690-A Mobo 32GB 3600MHz DDR4 RAM ASUS Strix RTX3080 OC 10GB DDR6X ASUS Ryujin 360 AOI Cooler ROG Thor 1200w PSU in ROG Helios Tower Case.

Chris_Beeves

Mmm.. Sounds like the "dead zone" could remedy that, or what is the amplitude?
I would think that the pressure wouldn't go to zero just because there is a little bubble in the line? All air, yes, but a bubble?

Sounds like there is some room for improvement there.
But I guess you get used to the feeling anyway, so no biggie.
I had to try..

doubledragoncc

Been using hydraulic brakes for over a year and made enough systems to know lol.

The problem is air in the system reduces the required pressure on the transducer. It is really a cost thing. with the money you can do it but its not cheap. Saying that I am visiting a company soon to look into this problem.

DD
GPBOC Live Streams: https://www.youtube.com/c/IASystemsComputerControls; i7 12700K 5.1GHz Z690 ASUS Strix Z690-A Mobo 32GB 3600MHz DDR4 RAM ASUS Strix RTX3080 OC 10GB DDR6X ASUS Ryujin 360 AOI Cooler ROG Thor 1200w PSU in ROG Helios Tower Case.

Chris_Beeves

What transducer are you using? Is it directly connected to the bodnar?

My first thought is a cheap Chinese rear caliper and a banjo bolt pressure sensor. Just letting the caliper squeeze itself or a material of your choice for different feel.
I had to try..

doubledragoncc

I use 1600psi transducers direct to BU0836A from bodnar yes. Will be looking at full unit with caliper and master cyclinder using brake switch banjo for transducer feed. Should solve the problem.

Yes a good 6mm steel plate to replace disc.

DD
GPBOC Live Streams: https://www.youtube.com/c/IASystemsComputerControls; i7 12700K 5.1GHz Z690 ASUS Strix Z690-A Mobo 32GB 3600MHz DDR4 RAM ASUS Strix RTX3080 OC 10GB DDR6X ASUS Ryujin 360 AOI Cooler ROG Thor 1200w PSU in ROG Helios Tower Case.