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HELP: How to - Interpret Telemetry into actual Setup Changes?

Started by Myst1cPrun3, April 29, 2019, 06:38:34 pm

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Myst1cPrun3

April 29, 2019, 06:38:34 pm Last Edit: April 29, 2019, 06:41:34 pm by Myst1cPrun3 Reason: --UPDATE--
So I've been looking at getting more into actually setting up the bikes to suit my personal style, and hopefully unlocking some extra speed.
This meant I installed MAX_TM, (Which is cool AF BTW), however, I have no idea how to interpret the graphs I'm seeing into useful setup changes in GPB, if that's even the point of it at all.
Which axis are the most useful for setup changes/seeing mistakes/issues with riding/bike?

Any advice, or links to tutorials would be great thanks :)

HELP:


lluisete

It's hard because u have to ride different in each bike to be fast. It's not the same apply the throttle and brakes on the 300 than in the stk1000... The easier and most productive method to be faster is compare your telemetry with another one from a faster guy and check the differences, then try to drive like her and see if you drive faster.
Champion of Summer Cup 2012 and SRC125cc.<br />Subchampion of SRC500cc.<br />Admin of @gpbikes_fans<br />Personal instagram @lluiscabedo

Myst1cPrun3

Yeah Riding the bikes differently is painfully obvious to me, as I'm slow an all of them, just by different amounts, for instance, I'm pretty close on a 300, but on anything 600 and over, naaaa 5+ seconds down.

I have issues interpreting each graph, and how that relates to the bikes setup and what changes I need to make, only seeing the painfully obvious.
For instance on the previous graph, by throttle and brake application is rough, and the front forks are bottoming out, so I will try some stiffer springs and more TC to allow for a smoother exit.

(I should point out that this may not be the 'Correct' way to fix these issues, and that is why I'm making this entire thread, to find teh best way to interpret each graph and fix issues with the setups, hopefully helping others grasp GPBs physics and setups a little better along the way)

The graph after these changes is below:



As you can see throttle is much smoother, and braking is better too, however I'm still bottoming out, which means the stiffer springs haven't worked, despite it being a much better stint, and feeling.

Its at this point I run out of ideas, and comparing someone else's telemetry runs, (especially those of a faster rider) would come in handy, but I can't seem to find any for download. (If anyone wants to upload their telemetry, and a setup to go with those that would be lovely thanks)  :)

Chris_Beeves

Isn't it possible to set the compression damping? Try increasing that a few clicks instead of or in combination with the stiffer spring. Should fix the bottoming out problem. That's what I'd do on a real bike anyway. :)
I had to try..

Myst1cPrun3

Quote from: Chris_Beeves on April 30, 2019, 04:51:29 amIsn't it possible to set the compression damping? Try increasing that a few clicks instead of or in combination with the stiffer spring. Should fix the bottoming out problem. That's what I'd do on a real bike anyway. :)

I'll give it a try, thanks :)

Chris_Beeves

Take small steps and note your settings before! Too high compression damping makes the front wash out easily.
Let us know how it worked out! It's really cool being able to read the curves like you do, and adjusting accordingly!
I had to try..

Myst1cPrun3

I do have a book, that explains setup diagnostics, but it goes a lot towards feel, which I guess is how it'd be IRL.

It's an old ACU book that was part of magazine pullout in the early 2000s, and states pretty much everything you'd need in UK club racing

However I'm GPB we don't have that feel, so I'm just trying to relate the graphs to the diagnostic areas in the book, that's the hard part.

The telemetry app cam be found here if you want a go;

https://forum.piboso.com/index.php?topic=1151.0

doNico

On my S1000 RR we are using 2D to do all the datarecording. Its dfntly not possible to compare this with the telemetry of GPBikes.
 

Eg.:
To generate more rear end grip on my BMW, we changed the whole suspension completly different to what i prefer in GPBikes. The rear end of the bike is "hanging" whilke the front end is "rised". You need to brake harder into the corners to make a better turn but you dont have any wheelys while accelerating and you have enhanced grip.
Just FYI, with leathers etc i was around 85KG and we use a ~75 spring. On the front we use use 11.5. Ive tried to set everything up as we use it in real life but the riding didnt really change for my feeling.   

Im reading the book of Tony Foale (https://motochassis.com/) "Motochassis Introduction » Motochassis by Tony Foale" to understand how to set up the right squad etc. Its a bit of a pain to read it but its pretty interesting how to react on the different areas to get better handling etc.

~doN

Myst1cPrun3

Quote from: doNico on May 01, 2019, 12:41:15 pmOn my S1000 RR we are using 2D to do all the datarecording. Its dfntly not possible to compare this with the telemetry of GPBikes.
 

Eg.:
To generate more rear end grip on my BMW, we changed the whole suspension completly different to what i prefer in GPBikes. The rear end of the bike is "hanging" whilke the front end is "rised". You need to brake harder into the corners to make a better turn but you dont have any wheelys while accelerating and you have enhanced grip.
Just FYI, with leathers etc i was around 85KG and we use a ~75 spring. On the front we use use 11.5. Ive tried to set everything up as we use it in real life but the riding didnt really change for my feeling.   

Im reading the book of Tony Foale (https://motochassis.com/) "Motochassis Introduction » Motochassis by Tony Foale" to understand how to set up the right squad etc. Its a bit of a pain to read it but its pretty interesting how to react on the different areas to get better handling etc.

~doN

Yeah, GPB is somewhat limited when it comes to switching out parts and adjusting suspension, as I'm finding out lol, and I should Imagine the telemetry would be massively different for a comparison.. Although it could make an interesting video on  how it differs.... One for the future maybe

You don't happen to have any telemetry from runs in GPB do you, preferably STK 1000s at sepang, as that's what I'm testing for at the minute

Vini

i guess the goal should be to get the brake to stay at to the limit (whereever that exactly is) consistent for the longest period of time and being able to smoothly trail it right until the apex while also reaching maxium lean. then, while keeping the bike at full lean, immediately getting on the throttle to load the rear suspension (preferebly with a bit of rear wheel steering) and standing the bike up. always keep the front or rear suspension loaded for maximum grip and turning with the fastest but still stable transition possible. try to steer the bike in a such a way that you can get on full throttle again as early as possible.
set up the suspension in such a way that you can stay at the limit consistently while always being smooth and progressive (no up and downs or gaps in brake and throttle inputs). depending on your riding style, there will always be a sweet spot between apex speed (front grip), rear grip (&tyre life) and stability. watch the tyre pressure/temperatures in the garage to find out whether you need to stress the front or rear more.