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Controller.....

Started by grimm, December 03, 2014, 07:21:26 AM

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doubledragoncc

December 04, 2014, 02:10:01 PM #15 Last Edit: December 04, 2014, 08:29:08 PM by WALKEN
Thanks for the link wkp.

I fully agree about the FFB points. My point is trying to get a system for EVERYONE out firstly as not all folks have that much money laying around for controllers. I am also going to make FFB rigs and all without FFB are designed to be upgraded to FFB later to spread costs from the start.

We have many threads around the forum on GPB and I think we need to bring them together. I am trying to build my website right now and have a video chatroom already for anyone to use if they wish to discuss controls, or anything without waiting for a response as on here. I will make a dedicated section of the site purely for people like us wishing to build systems or having any ides to share.

(link removed- PM me for explanation)  WALKEN

DD
GPBOC Live Streams: https://www.youtube.com/c/IASystemsComputerControls; i7 7700 4.8GHz z270 ASUS Maximus Code Mobo 16GB 3866MHz DDR4 RAM ASUS Strix RTX2070 OC 8GB DDR6 Kraken X62 AIO Cooler ROG Thor 850w PSU in ROG Helios Tower Case.
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cdx

Grimm, your controller is looking nice!

It makes me even more eager to have a go at making someting similar with DD's help. GPB will be even more fun in the new year :)

DD, I'll give you a shout on Sunday. I'll be getting a lighter travel bag, so I'll be able to haul a bit more stuff in January :)

doubledragoncc

Cool D, we can make some designs that fit your bag lol. I got some ideas to play with. Hardest part is the headstem but I got it covered dude.

DD
GPBOC Live Streams: https://www.youtube.com/c/IASystemsComputerControls; i7 7700 4.8GHz z270 ASUS Maximus Code Mobo 16GB 3866MHz DDR4 RAM ASUS Strix RTX2070 OC 8GB DDR6 Kraken X62 AIO Cooler ROG Thor 850w PSU in ROG Helios Tower Case.
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grimm

December 07, 2014, 12:22:43 AM #18 Last Edit: December 07, 2014, 12:30:17 AM by grimm
Okay, sorted a few more bugs, beginning to think this thing is going to be pretty solid after I finalize all of it and package it properly in terms of cables and wiring run through holders so they are not just hanging all over the place. Still yet to build a stop for the throttle but a tighter spring has severely limited the range so during calibration I just keep an eye on how far I turn it to clock it to the proper needed 1/4 turn amount. I free'd up the time away from life long enough to hack together a quick up and downshift button set on the left handlebar. Works wonders to actually be able to upshift in a wheelie.  ;)



Also grabbed a few detailed shots of the board and wiring, seems there isn't much documentation on basic form/function on these things. Allow me to change that. ;)

(Steering on far right, then clutch, brake, throttle on the left in red, green, black.)



Buttons on the left side looking at it in the pic, just dumped them into an easy spot really. Two wires each, one is upshift, the other down.












The Cressida is a sad story.... sparing the details as they don't matter much, I hit a huge deer going about 35mph and completely ruined a huge amount of the corner of it. Though a small block ford engine on fireblade carbs will reside where the strait 6 is battered and bruised now, it'll never be the same. Poor thing finally hit a limit with wear and damage, time to million dollar man this thing. lol. Just glad I wasn't on a bike when it happened.

Still have a set of brand new axles for it, new tires, new brakes, completely rebuilt the front end over the summer too. Was just happy with it, and was out painting the back roads with black marks a few hours before the deer strike. Ended up having to walk 5 miles in the pitch dark to get back to camp after it happened. Trust me, when your phone is at 13% battery, no reception, and your car is totaled on the side of the road with nobody and nothing for miles in every direction you find a good perspective on not being the top of the food chain in bear and wolf country!



A week before the end of the Cressida as I knew it, I bought a 1982 Datsun 810... aka, the first Nissan Maxima, just so happens they had a 6 cylinder diesel four door option, kinda what I've been into all my life. So I bought it for $500 and quickly stashed it away for future awesome to happen. The car itself will probably end up a V8 swapped monster, and the diesel will definitely be in a small pickup truck before any real amount of time passes.







doubledragoncc

Hi Grimm, so sorry about the car I know how much she meant to you.

I thought I would give a bit more info on the BU0836X control board you are using. It is important to understand that it is plug and play and Windows recognizes it for a direct input device. When using it with GPB or MXB it is okay as such the way you have wired it, but for many other programs, even MotoGP or GP500 there are rules to follow and to be honest best kept to even in GPB as Windows has set perameters for input devices.

Firstly, steering inputs should always be the X axis, when you configure it in Windows and you calibrate it, Windows automatically WANTS to see an X axis input, if it does not see one it will not calibrate 100%, the system will work but not properly. PLEASE always use the X axis for steering.

Secondly for throttle and front brake you want to use the next in line axis from the X axis. I highly recommend using the
Y axis for Throttle and the Z Axis for the Front Brake.

Third is the Clutch if used. It is best to use the Axis know as Slider for the Clutch

Forth is the Rear Brake if used. It is best to use the Axis marked Dial for the Rear Brake.

Fifth is for other Analog inputs, namely rider movement best achieved by using a mini joystick like on a XBOX controller. These are about $7 with the breakout board to wire and mount them. Use the RX,RY and RZ for these controls.

Most games by Milestone and Capcom and many others need additional software like the xbox360cemu.v.3.0 which you can find online. You will need to follow the instructions and manually change the ini file to get the right axis working.

Last but not least. Gear Shift should be the first digital button inputs so B1 and B2. This is important as many games have set recognition parameters on digital button numbers.

Here is one of my wiring diagrams.



MJRV is Mini Joystick Right Vertical axis MJLH is Mini Joystick Left Horizontal etc. etc.

Pic below shows Clutch with a Mini Joystick for rider movement



I hope this helps you Grimm and anyone else that needs info on building controllers.

Keep up the great work Grimm, your doing so good for a man scared of wiring lol.

Last bit of advice to save on wiring. The BU0836X is very stable and almost indestructible. You do not have to run all the ground wires per buttons, you can have say 4 buttons and only need one ground and the 4 inputs saving 3 wires. You
can also do this with potentiometers but only if you must. This helps when using certain connectors with only so many contact point.

Have fun all

DD

GPBOC Live Streams: https://www.youtube.com/c/IASystemsComputerControls; i7 7700 4.8GHz z270 ASUS Maximus Code Mobo 16GB 3866MHz DDR4 RAM ASUS Strix RTX2070 OC 8GB DDR6 Kraken X62 AIO Cooler ROG Thor 850w PSU in ROG Helios Tower Case.
https://paypal.me/IASystems

doubledragoncc

Just thought I better add some info on cables. The end of the cable that actuates the potentiometers needs to move freely. What I mean is that if it rubs on the inner cable housing or is connected by means of a grub screw or anything else it will not last too long and snap. It is best to keep points like this in mind when building a controller. It is worth a buck or two more at the start than having to get a new cable after it broke during a race!!! Oh and DO NOT use lube or oil on new cables as the Teflon inside will clog and seize the cable!!!

My new components I have designed will allow for more people to build their own systems quite cheaply compared to a car wheel system.
GPBOC Live Streams: https://www.youtube.com/c/IASystemsComputerControls; i7 7700 4.8GHz z270 ASUS Maximus Code Mobo 16GB 3866MHz DDR4 RAM ASUS Strix RTX2070 OC 8GB DDR6 Kraken X62 AIO Cooler ROG Thor 850w PSU in ROG Helios Tower Case.
https://paypal.me/IASystems

h106frp

Ever thought of using the front section cut off a push bike, it would seem if you cut the upper and lower frame tubes six inches behind the steering tube and welded them to a plate this would supply a roller bearing steering tube, cut the forks off and allow the stem to hang down to give your swing steering. Always a pile of old kiddies bike at our local scrapyard.

doubledragoncc

Good idea in many ways h106, but it is actually going to make it harder than easier for many reasons if you do that. I wont go into it but at the end of the day the steering headstem needs to be able to be desktop and on a frame mountable, so using an old bike frame will limit it use and cost of parts for a NEW headstem with bearings is only $20.

I sat down with cdx on Sunday and we made a new headstem unit that is for all types of mounting. It is easy to build and pretty cheap too. I will post designs when I make them for public use later this week.

Sometimes a few bucks/pounds more saves a lot of work and money in the future.

DD
GPBOC Live Streams: https://www.youtube.com/c/IASystemsComputerControls; i7 7700 4.8GHz z270 ASUS Maximus Code Mobo 16GB 3866MHz DDR4 RAM ASUS Strix RTX2070 OC 8GB DDR6 Kraken X62 AIO Cooler ROG Thor 850w PSU in ROG Helios Tower Case.
https://paypal.me/IASystems

Klax75

I know this thread is about making handbar controllers.

I've had a design in my head for a while, that I think would work out well give all the movements you need to do everything manual in GP Bikes, being able to clap it to a desk, and move it. Alls modular so you can change handle bars. I'd never be able to use it personally, lol. Because of my disabilty but I'm sure others would. :)

What I'd really like is a X-Box controller with 2 extra triggers, slightly inside and forward of the main triggers. Then I can have Throttle and Front brake on the right hand triggers, and the left triggers clutch and rear brake. That I could use. :D

HornetMaX

Quote from: Klax75 on December 10, 2014, 08:54:54 AM
What I'd really like is a X-Box controller with 2 extra triggers, slightly inside and forward of the main triggers. Then I can have Throttle and Front brake on the right hand triggers, and the left triggers clutch and rear brake. That I could use. :D

I'd like that too. How do you plan to use the two right triggers  ? Both with your index or one with the index and one with the middle finger ? I'm more for second (index + middle), but not sure how precise one could be when using both fingers.

MaX.

Klax75

Right now I use both my index and middle fingers on both hands. The index finger I use for the bumpers for shifting. And the middle fingers for Throttle and Front Brake.

With four triggers, my middle fingers would do double duty for each triggers. Would just depend on a good positioning of the new second triggers.

BOBR6 84

you could try using them paddle things GRT was talking about that go underneath the pad? might help you more than others whilst using dst?

Klax75

Usually the paddles I've seen adding on to a controller just double a existing button or trigger to a new spot. Not add a new set of inputs.

doubledragoncc

December 11, 2014, 01:53:52 PM #28 Last Edit: December 11, 2014, 01:56:04 PM by doubledragoncc
Hi Klax. Can you post a pic of what you mean. I have done a fair amount of robotic engineering and might have a way to help. Nothing is impossible buddy and  I would like to help. My new product is designed to help people with disabilities too as it is a box that can be used for input and has many ways it can be used. You can even use a piece of string as a throttle lol.

DD
GPBOC Live Streams: https://www.youtube.com/c/IASystemsComputerControls; i7 7700 4.8GHz z270 ASUS Maximus Code Mobo 16GB 3866MHz DDR4 RAM ASUS Strix RTX2070 OC 8GB DDR6 Kraken X62 AIO Cooler ROG Thor 850w PSU in ROG Helios Tower Case.
https://paypal.me/IASystems