Configuring Xbox360 pad

[JJS209]

beta6c is not the best on slow turns and you could try not to close the throttle fully when "rolling" thru the apex.

[h106frp]

It does seem utterly maddening at first, but generally there is a good reason for a tumble.

More painful lessons from my recent learning curve;;

Look closely at your controller output in the little display at the bottom of the screen. If your throttle/brake and steer sticks do not give nice linear outputs you will struggle a bit - i ended up with a gamepad upgrade from a low end copy 360 controller that was just hopeless - big thread in the forum  .

Stick with auto rider lean to start with, it makes life easier.

Going too slow on tight corners with a big steer angle will cause the front to fold up. Generally watch out for having a lot of steer angle for any reason - something is wrong with your line.

Some turns are just difficult to master, i found low speed tight corners difficult. My general problem was thinking i had to clip every apex. Sometimes running deeper and wider into the turn  is the key. I struggled with the last downhill tight turn on Victoria for ages with mysterious falls, running a bit wider on the entry sorted it, anywhere near the apex was a tumble.

The 'show best line guide' colored arrows on track can be distracting - try a few laps without it you may find you get on better - i did

Mallory is a nice practice track - not too long and easy too learn. If you can master Shaws hairpin you have it cracked at low speed. Gerrards is an exercise in fine throttle control

Try not to get to disheartened, it is possible but the leaning curve is steep to start with.

Maybe one of the good riders here could run a bit of a track school sometime, maybe just a few laps, part of the problem is riding on your own - it would be much easier to learn following an instructor.

[Hawk]

Bike suspension setup makes a big difference to front end folds too...... On the Mallory hairpin bend for instance: Give your front suspension plenty of rebound - lets say: front Bump 2, and front rebound 10 or 11 should do the trick nicely. It made the world of difference on the moto 3 - Kalex M3 mod bike on that track for me. 

I only found out myself by shear luck on a last minute gamble with setup that this works for Mallory hairpin during last GPBOC moto 3 event there. Lol

Not tried it at other track yet.

Hawk.

[Drasic]

Well, the truth is that I can't play a lot of hours to this game but I am beginning to fall less of the bikes jeje.
Even so is extremely difficult to ride quickly the bike.
I think they could do a button where "Arcade" and "Simulation" could be switched.


Thanks to all!!

[JJS209]

Well, the truth is that I can't play a lot of hours to this game but I am beginning to fall less of the bikes jeje.
Even so is extremely difficult to ride quickly the bike.
I think they could do a button where "Arcade" and "Simulation" could be switched.


Thanks to all!!

just practise mate, thats the secrect.
and about you button, noone here wants a "arcade game"-button 

[SKD]

Another tip:
If you don't have the full brake power on your gamepad you can brake more precisely especially into the corners. In earlier versions I played you could set a brake power between 1 and 10. I allways used 3 and it made me a lot quicker because I could very smoothly break into the corner. The recent version of gp bikes doesn't have this option. But in the gamepad setup you can lower the gain of the brake axis. I just started playing again but I think at the moment I'm using a value of about 85%.

[HornetMaX]

I'd avoid touching at the brake gain (this is mostly there for people using load cells on car brake pedals).
Change the (front) brake leverage: the smaller the leverage, the higher the max braking force (and vice versa).

MaX.