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September 28, 2020, 09:51:30 AM


World Racing Series beta14 available! :)

time for a real moto controller(diy)

Started by tseklias, June 12, 2014, 08:23:06 PM

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June 12, 2014, 08:23:06 PM Last Edit: June 29, 2014, 10:30:36 PM by tseklias
hi guys im new at gpbikes but i have a long thought of building a controller for bikes that has actual steer(including ff) all the controls of bike movement and stuff will be fanctionable and chassis able to support motion control(future plan). so here is an idea of how it will look in the end and i will upload pictures as processing. any help or ideas will be very welcome.


>the controller will be ready aproximatelly the first days of july, videos of it working will be uploaded
*i dont and wont patent or ask for any rights for the following build as long as its only for personal use, the construction manual will be free for the community of gpbikes and any guests that want to use it.


Welcome aboard tseklias.  ;D

Can't see you diagram in your post; it's better to use a image hosting site(free) to link your pictures in your posts as the forum attachment facility is as good as useless.  :)

I'll be following your progress with your controller build with interest.  ;D



here are the external commands of a g25 a ps2 controller and what well need:

moto(as seen on                                   g25                                                ps2
gpbikes)                                                3 analog pedals(3 axis) & steer    2 analog(4axis)
lean/steer(g25)                                     21 buttons                                    18 buttons
brake(fr)/http://www.totalspanishsimulator.com/wp/en/productos/mod-brake-g25g27/ <-now i want some help on this one, can i use 2 internal commands in one board?(f.e. brake fr&rr)
rear brake/as above-in one board or more
f/b lean/using rope attached to the jaw of the helmet otherwise with a cloth pin to your shirt(measuring the distance between you and the tank)
l/r lean/same bethod as above with the rope hanging from your knee
=6 analog axis needed(not including steering) or 8 analog axis(consuming the f/b&l/r lean cant be used in a single axis :-\)?


June 20, 2014, 12:03:28 PM #3 Last Edit: June 22, 2014, 12:49:34 AM by tseklias

yesterday i bought new items
it also took me a minute to think of a way to measure the distance between the feetbars. i stand the bike in vertical position and dropped a drop of water right under both feetbars then moved the bike back and measured the distance at the ground. i think you can also measure it with 2 bobs hanging from ropes and place them on the inner side of the feetbars. i couldnt think of other way cause chassis and gearbox is between the two feetbars making it impossible to measure straight distance. so my result was 50cm from fbar to fbar from my gsxrbusa(old model). my father(helper in the construction) also stated that the 1000cc bikes will have 45cm and the 600cc 40cm distance between feetbars. im guessing hes partly right cause of the difference in engine case. if anyone can measure his bikes distance and write them down here along with the moto model i will be grateful(i desperately want a 1000cc distance cause i dont own a supersport now)


June 20, 2014, 12:27:42 PM #4 Last Edit: June 20, 2014, 10:35:47 PM by tseklias
this is the diagram of how will it look in the end

the diagram is made measuring the distances of an rsv4 as seen in the pictures. the box on the right side of the diagram pic will be the g25 placed right on the middle of the triangle of the basis of the build. you will need to use a logitech g25 controller for the leaning. the steering wheel and the shift paddles of the g25 must be removed and all wires going to the steering wheel also(2 buttons&shift paddles for use in the new controller). you will need to make also a wheel adapter to welcome the 15t(small) sprocket. the e-bay adapter of g25 wont help you so you will need to order it from your local lathe shop. diagram of the adapter needed will be uploaded in the following days.


WOW! This is looking very promising, tseklias.... Can't wait to see a video of the working prototype.  ;D

Keep up the good work mate and keep the progress posts coming!  ;D 8)


PS: Just got home and saw your message, but I see it looks like you got yourself sorted.  ;)


June 21, 2014, 12:26:40 AM #6 Last Edit: July 07, 2014, 12:03:12 AM by tseklias

here follows the diagram plan of the steering bar and a pic of mine ready(i dont give you the measures in degrees cause i think it will be more difficult for you)
i also bought a throttle lever(with long route to be less sensitive), handle grips(playlife<3) and a kill switch which i will be using for upshifts(like in motogp)
you need to find yourself an old steering bar(anything can do), cut down the handlebars at the given measures paint the steering bar after you weld it and before you put the parts on(spray color is used)

ull also need a t-joint out of a steering column of a random car(this is from a seat but any can do, we want only the link)

*if your not planing on adding motion simulation later on you wont need this last part



June 22, 2014, 12:18:46 AM #8 Last Edit: July 03, 2014, 12:58:02 PM by tseklias
as you may figure out from the diagram you must remove some parts from the wheel that we will need to put in different position for another use.

so i took off the steering wheel from the g25, the shift paddles and the "chipset" as seen in the pictures.
put the parts along with the screws in a plastic bag or box and put them somewhere safe so you wont lose them if you may need in the future.
*it is pretty easy to take off, if any of you find it difficulty search on utube for disassemply videos and if no luck pm me.
*a video on how to mount the fan on top of the g25 can be found here:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tW_thHzE50k <-the mod is really handy and had been tested by me(with accurate thermometer) and its worth applying since the motors inside g25 is used for the force feedback function which on our build must move you whole.


July 03, 2014, 01:02:08 PM #9 Last Edit: July 06, 2014, 11:35:13 PM by tseklias
this is the adaptor u need to order from the lathe shop. i had an old adapter so he only open up a hole in the center and put a spacer in both the sprocket and the adaptor(same diameter as the hole of the sprocket).

*the sprocket actually should be able to spin.


wraios,keep it up this is very interesting :)


Quote from: valentinik46 on July 03, 2014, 06:39:37 PM
wraios,keep it up this is very interesting :)

Your making progress.... I'm keeping my eye on this thread.  ;) ;D 8)



July 03, 2014, 10:36:11 PM #12 Last Edit: July 14, 2014, 03:54:07 PM by tseklias
thanks for the kind comments. these are the steel tubes we will need. part of them actually cause we'll need a couple more.
4x1.20m 33mm(Φ33)
1x1.80m 48mm(Φ48)


July 06, 2014, 09:11:46 PM #14 Last Edit: July 06, 2014, 11:37:48 PM by tseklias
i went out of my timetable and my apologies for that but my father is on vacation as i am on weekends and we find no time together to finish this. i need him cause im not a talented welder and i want it to look as good as possible. but the project will be continued with smaller steps until we meet. i drawed some pictures in colors for you to get a better idea of the design and how it will function.

light grey=thinner tubes
dark grey=central/basic tube

*think of it similar to a small swing and the force moving it, will be the g25/27(logitech has very powerful ff motors they will do just fine)