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Anyone modified the 360 controller triggers?

Started by h106frp, June 13, 2015, 09:45:57 PM

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h106frp

Noticed my 360 pad triggers have a lot of travel before either the throttle or brakes register movement in game. Has anyone tried any mods to improve this?

Seem to calibrate OK, just a lot of travel before they generate a signal.

Hawk

June 13, 2015, 10:23:40 PM #1 Last Edit: June 13, 2015, 11:58:08 PM by Hawk UK
Quote from: h106frp on June 13, 2015, 09:45:57 PM
Noticed my 360 pad triggers have a lot of travel before either the throttle or brakes register movement in game. Has anyone tried any mods to improve this?

Seem to calibrate OK, just a lot of travel before they generate a signal.

This doesn't happen to me... Have you got your controller throttle and brake settings set-up right? Sounds like you have "Deadzones" set greater than zero?

Hawk.

Napalm Nick

I don't use them for brake and throttle personally but clutch and rear brake (yeh I know I'm weird) but I do know what you are saying. The clutch movement on the trigger is especially bad.

As a suggestion, a method that helped me, was to play with the linearity. I always assumed 100% was best for full range of movement but after reading the prompt about linearity changes being better for gamepads I gave it a go and got interesting results. Maybe try it see what you think?
"The post you are writing has been written at least ten times already in the last 15ish years. Its already been reported, suggested, discussed, ignored or archived (but mostly ignored). Why are you doing it again?"

h106frp

Deadzones are 0

I will try linearity and see if it helps

Most likely due too not being a genuine MS pad if not everyone notices the problem  :(


HornetMaX

Once had modified a crappy pad for that (easy mod, especialy for somebody like you, just open the pad and you'll see).

Best solution: but a microsoft 360 pad or (slightly better) a thrustmaster gpx (even the cheapest one, with no frills).

MaX.

h106frp

June 14, 2015, 10:11:22 PM #5 Last Edit: June 14, 2015, 10:50:36 PM by h106frp
Mystery solved, opened it up - and the pots are obviously just a crap design :(

The rotation is tiny and even moving the pot arm directly to negate the slop in the trigger linkage it does half its travel before windows registers any movement.

Possibility 1, the arm needs moving round to get the pot onto the 'start' of the resistive track. The arms are keyed to the pot so i would have to cut the key and glue the arms on - one way if this causes the controller to throw a wobbler.

Possibility 2, i have read that there might be a dead spot built in at the controller end and the rotation is just so small that the voltage change only just gets out of the dead region at half lever travel - bugger  :( Only trick i know for this is conductive paint to shorten the track and these tiny pots are sealed  >:(

edit:
Bit of probing with the meter suggests its mechanical  :) and the start of the pot track is non resistive (meter does not change and then jumps up in resistance at half travel, must be to give a good 'gun trigger' action for shooting games, question is if i mod the arms will it all still calibrate out?

A bit more looking and i'm guessing its a log-antilog or S-taper pot, nothing at the start then a section of travel approximating linear and then not much change for the rest of the travel. So to make the controller more suitable for throttle and brake probably means swapping them for linear taper ones. now where did that spring go... ???

these might do the trick  :)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-Alps-PCB-Potentiometer-RK09K-Series-with-a-6-mm-Dia-Shaft-10k-20-Linear-/221751186719?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item33a166951f

doubledragoncc

The old trick  I used was to be drill a small hole by the trigger and using a screw to push the trigger in so you had less movement. You simply adjust it until it is just before activating movement in windows.

DD
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h106frp

Quote from: doubledragoncc on June 14, 2015, 11:04:28 PM
The old trick  I used was to be drill a small hole by the trigger and using a screw to push the trigger in so you had less movement. You simply adjust it until it is just before activating movement in windows.

DD
That would be good for fine adjusting and would make the trigger a lot less tiring to use as holding the trigger at the required point is a pain. My cheap copy controller only has 2 or 3 mm of useable travel so more severe surgery is required. Its really bad (unpredictable) on slow corners and the braking is really sudden with no progression due to the very sharp taper change.

I'm mouse and keyboard for shooters so modding the pad permanently for driving games is not a problem  :) Not many PC only controllers around anymore, guess most will mainly be set up for console type play.

HornetMaX

Quote from: h106frp on June 15, 2015, 12:03:38 AM
Quote from: doubledragoncc on June 14, 2015, 11:04:28 PM
The old trick  I used was to be drill a small hole by the trigger and using a screw to push the trigger in so you had less movement. You simply adjust it until it is just before activating movement in windows.

DD
That would be good for fine adjusting and would make the trigger a lot less tiring to use as holding the trigger at the required point is a pain. My cheap copy controller only has 2 or 3 mm of useable travel so more severe surgery is required. Its really bad (unpredictable) on slow corners and the braking is really sudden with no progression due to the very sharp taper change.

I'm mouse and keyboard for shooters so modding the pad permanently for driving games is not a problem  :) Not many PC only controllers around anymore, guess most will mainly be set up for console type play.

BUY.A.THRUSTMASTER.GPX.

Problem solved (Xbox 360 pad almost as good, GPX triggers are stiffer but have a longer travel so they are overall better).

MaX.


JamoZ

The problem i`m currently having is that on my Xbox one controller the triggers are too senstitive.
With about 75% trigger travel, ingame it registers as 100% on brake & throttle which leads to spectacular frontflips and highsides. At first i thought it was just me being an old and slow fart because having not played the game for a while, but then i noticed this issue with the triggers and google shows i`m not the only only one.

I guess there is no easy way to fix this right?

I miss my old 360 pad :(

HornetMaX

Quote from: JamoZ on June 15, 2015, 09:21:28 AM
The problem i`m currently having is that on my Xbox one controller the triggers are too senstitive.
With about 75% trigger travel, ingame it registers as 100%
Yeah, the triggers are the problem of the XBoxOne pad: their mechanical travel is not too far from the one of the 360, but they reach their max output before reaching the mechanical stop. This is very annoying. The sticks have more or less the same problem (the stick is at +/-100% before hitting the mechanical stop).

The Thrustmaster GPX has sticks as good as XBox 360 ones and arguably better triggers (longer travel, stiffer springs).

P.S.
I have the three pads: Xbox 360, Xbox One and GPX (well, actually I've sold the One on ebay :) yesterday).
And normally I'm not very fond of thrustmaster products (last pad I had from them was total crap in GPB).

h106frp

Quote from: JamoZ on June 15, 2015, 09:21:28 AM
The problem i`m currently having is that on my Xbox one controller the triggers are too senstitive.
With about 75% trigger travel, ingame it registers as 100% on brake & throttle which leads to spectacular frontflips and highsides. At first i thought it was just me being an old and slow fart because having not played the game for a while, but then i noticed this issue with the triggers and google shows i`m not the only only one.

I guess there is no easy way to fix this right?

I miss my old 360 pad :(

This is fixable if your happy with the rest of the controller  :) , google 'controller trigger stops', basically a small screw into the base of the trigger that limits how far you can push it in. Cheap fix  :)


HornetMaX

Quote from: h106frp on June 15, 2015, 09:57:25 AM
Quote from: JamoZ on June 15, 2015, 09:21:28 AM
The problem i`m currently having is that on my Xbox one controller the triggers are too senstitive.
With about 75% trigger travel, ingame it registers as 100% on brake & throttle which leads to spectacular frontflips and highsides. At first i thought it was just me being an old and slow fart because having not played the game for a while, but then i noticed this issue with the triggers and google shows i`m not the only only one.

I guess there is no easy way to fix this right?

I miss my old 360 pad :(

This is fixable if your happy with the rest of the controller  :) , google 'controller trigger stops', basically a small screw into the base of the trigger that limits how far you can push it in. Cheap fix  :)
Yeah but then you're left with a very very short travel (well shorter of the triggers of the Xbox 360 pad).

MaX.

h106frp

Agreed with the 360 as its meant as a mod for shooting games, but from the description of the 'one' it was that the over travel has no useful travel (electrical output) anyway. Seems the reverse of my 360 issues with no output at the start of travel.

Looked up GPX and it does seem that they have made the effort to sort the triggers for driving games. Seems like they are pushing the new light up version and discontinuing the original. Hunting around for best prices, seem to vary as lot.

Some reports of driver install issues with the new one though, windows not recognizing it as a MS 360 controller.

HornetMaX

I have a a basic one: no led lights, no ferrari logo. And no issues.

There's even a more basic one (GP XID) which is PC only (no xbox 360 compatibility): it's even chepaer (20GBP or less) but it's only white (which, honestly, sucks).

MaX.