Project Realistic Rig

[speedfr]

 

[speedfr]

Just a little update about cabling the levers and the gaz.

I have to say again that DD'work on 3D printing is a hell of a job, this things are perfect, and i adjusted them so the slightest movement on the levers or the gaz makes them follow exactly.
Perfect again !!

Now i have to finish my steerhaed fixing on the table (a few improvment to make) and i'm ready to attack the rearset then electronics 
I just need my 3D printer to be ready (probably at the end of the week) cuz i stopped using it being in the same place, ABS is toxic... I designed a special shelve where the printer gonna be inside and with a tuvbe that goes to the air sucking system (VMC in french). So i guess by this week end the box will be finish (coffin ? ) and i can print the 2 parts that i miss plus the system to catch the rear brake movement.
Almost there. 




@DD
2 things :

1. for William' handelbar, i'm gonna need the little metallic parts that were laser cut (so next time you order some, please add 2 for me and tell me how much) plus i will ask for a Leo Bodnar complete stuff as well. That will be when i attack his rig. Not for the next month anyway (money side  )

2. I change the clutch spring for a easier one. Seems more "normal" like that.

[doubledragoncc]

Do you mean the parts for the clutch and brake lever springs that goes on the cable adjuster?

If you suck air from the printer it can cause yoou to also suck away the heat that ABS MUST have!!!

DD

[speedfr]

So :

1. Yes the little metallic part that goes at the end of the lever and hold the spring. This parts are super well made and i don't think i could reproduce that.

2. The air inside the box is going to be suck by the air system (like in a bathroom) but at the same time, i did a few hole under the box to let fresh air going in and evelopping the printer on a side, then stealing the ABS fumes and a little bit of heat from the printer (bed is at 110°C - maybe less if i'm in a closed box).
Here is the plan of the box i'm making (wood is cut, and everything is ready to assembly for this week-end (2 friends that are Carpenters) so sunday night i should be able to print this little part i need at first (steering angle)).

(that's for all that and other things that i try to catch you yesterday but you'd rather be with girls...pfffff  (Teasing))

The box (linked to the exhaust by the Ø80mm on the right side)



The little part in red



Cura ready to go !



View of the holes in the box, a few under and the Ø80 on the top right that goes to the exit on top right of the entire shelve

[doubledragoncc]

ABS is best when nozzel is 230 and bed no less than 110. If you creat any kind of airflow you will get problems with prints lifting. Use a glass plate on the bed and TRESemme Salon Finish hairspray to stop prints lifting. Wipe the surface 3 times with a dish sponge soaked in water after squeezing most of the water out. This is the best way to keep the bed good.

I have 2 spare spring plates I can send you.

DD

[speedfr]

DD, hold these two parts on the side or just add 2 on the next order if you have to use them.

About printing, i did several pieces two weeks ago, my noze is finally at 245°C and the bed is better at 105°C
I don't use hair spray or anything, the bed is made in a special cover (same as Anycubic) and is perfect.
I did 3 parts 22cm long and no lifting or wrapping or anything. Just perfect. In a 19°C-20°C room.
Don't worry for that, i've been doing a lot of improvment and experience the retractation already, i know what to do.
The air is going to go around a volume that include the printer, not directly around the bed.
And anyway, from what i've seen, when you put the printer into a closed box, you usually can take the temp down a bit.

In the future, the idea is to go to HT-PLA that is 3 time cheaper, no toxic and that you can make as hard as ABS by putting it 10mn at 100°c in your stove.
i gave you link about it on Skype but here :

https://www.flashforge-eu.com/add3d-ht-pla-green-filament-1-75-mm

I'm waiting for it to be spread worldwide and go to that instead of ABS or Nylon. (which are the best for mechanics so far). And using less power for the bed and the noze. 

[KG_03]

My brain is to small to gather all the informations given here...anyway I must say it looks amazing :-O fantastic work :-D

[doubledragoncc]

Ok will hold onto them for you.

I prefer ABS and just dont worry about fumes lol. It is better for gears too. PLA is too hard and has no flex which is good to protect parts from being brittle and braking easy. Good to hear you got your temps sorted though.

DD

[speedfr]

Thanks KG but nothing exceptional, just a lot of passion and determination 

And thank you DD for keeping those aside for me.
For the 3D printer, took me a few error to find out, and then i did 3 parts like this (the fourth one was done alone and i decided to do 3 at the time... 7h37 of printing).

Quality is incredible, 40% filled in and just had to wait for the bed to be cold to retrieve the parts. (Spool Holder)




the spool holder done (include 4 skateboard bearings)

[speedfr]

So for the top part, mechanical and handlebar links are done.
Not painted yet, i need to polish a little bit at first.

But it works 

Next is the rearset and the electonics but i need the 3D printer ready. 

The story continues...   

[doubledragoncc]

Great work speedy. I recommend you tilt the whole steering unit to 15 degrees (top away from you) for better feeling and more comfort on the wrists. Found it the best angle.

DD

[speedfr]

Great work speedy. I recommend you tilt the whole steering unit to 15 degrees (top away from you) for better feeling and more comfort on the wrists. Found it the best angle.

DD

heu.... i whish you've said that BEFORE i weld and align everything (like on the plans i showed you) and kill my ass to make pieces at 90° perfect... Now the horizontal axis is flat, totally flat, and there's no way that i can give 15° angle on this one....
It's ok, i'll see when "riding" 

And the Ø1.6mm springs for the front lever are too strong at start i think so i thought about a little modification in the system to have smooth at start and then increased strength to finish the braking movement.
With a Ø1.2mm traction spring and a compression spring as well. I'll do a little draw to explain what i have in mind. The idea is to reproduced (as close as possible) the effect of a hydraulic brake (smooth at first then hard at the end). Using the nice lever plates that you send me.

You'll find me on Skype tonight after my afternoon ride at clients (it's not snowing anymore).

[doubledragoncc]

Sorry you made it too quickly lol

You can make an adapter plate I am sure. Just triangular section under the bearings.

DD

[speedfr]

Nope... now its welded, fixed and if i put a 10-11mm plate under the front bearing, the backs are not gonna be align and my steering limiters and the springs are gonna be off...
it's the entire steering head bloc that need to be turned to 15° angle...

[doubledragoncc]

exactly, you would need to weld 2 plates at 15degrees onto existing plates so all moves together.

DD